SciFi Model Action

Members Current Projects (WIP) => Members Current Projects (WIP) => Topic started by: scottminium on June 05, 2017, 06:34:05 pm

Title: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on June 05, 2017, 06:34:05 pm
And the adventure begins!

A first look at the kit still attached to the sprue.  Love the really thick attachment points that make you drool over the sanding possibilities.

Actually, after sanding the saucer section I was pleasantly surprised that because of the 'sensor strip' between the hull halves, the scars can be sanded quite evenly and are barely noticeable.  The nacelles, on the other hand, will require putty in the most obvious of places: the front end.  Why they put the attach point there boggles the mind.

None of this would be an issue were I not lighting this build.  So, that means figuring out how to light block the bussard collectors while lighting them after puttying them.  I think I need some clear putty....  (resin?)  similarly, lightblocking the saucer might be a challenge.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on June 05, 2017, 06:39:37 pm
The kit comes with raised panel lines, almost all of which will be sanded off.  To begin with, however, they are sanded 'almost off' which allows them to be used as positioning guides.  The 1701-C (previously posted) came with recessed portholes, and the 1701-D does not.  So, how to drill them?  The decals were photocopied onto decal paper, then the decals applied to the kit, and now there is a template for drilling.

The Aztec scheme for this kit will be like the 1701-C, which will be masked and painted.  Some escape pod decals were obtained from Federation Models.  The original decals were kept so they can be photocopied onto yellow vinyl masking, which will be used for the Aztec painting.

Here, about 25% of the saucer decals are placed to begin drilling the windows.  Let the joy begin!  Once done drilling, the decals will be stripped.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on June 05, 2017, 06:40:36 pm
Oh, and I'm glad I'm not wallpapering this kit.  Notice the gaps in the decals.  This can be hid by additional drilling, but not by actual decals.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on June 11, 2017, 12:38:08 pm
First day of drilling windows.  Saturday 112.  It's gonna be a long build...and my fingers hurt.

One drill bit gets about 80 windows before dulling.  With two holes drilled I punch through with an X-acto.  About once an hour I snap the tip off the knife.  It's not an inexpensive process.

I've decided to go with a unique aztek scheme for this kit.  Not canon, and not as difficult as last time.  Should be good though.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: MSgtUSAFRet on June 11, 2017, 01:52:04 pm
112 windows and you're still not done?! Whew!!

What aztecing scheme do you have in mind?

Keep going!

Steve
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on June 12, 2017, 06:49:26 pm
@Steve, yeah, quite a bit of windows to place.   :P

For the aztec I'm planning to use the vinyl masks pictured below.  After base coating the overall hull with a light gray primer, the masks will be placed side to side, not with the seams shown here.  Then, a four color pattern will be laid down one 'row' at a time, probably having to reuse one of the first two sets.  Gray, lay down a meandering pattern where each piece only touches two others, remove every other one of those, paint the first shade.  Lay down the ones removed, add the third color.  Lay down the third, add the next color.  It seems simple in my head, we'll see how it goes in practice....
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: AnythingSciFi on June 12, 2017, 06:57:29 pm
Wow! Determination is definitely one of your strong points!!
Lots of windows but it is gonna look fantastic in the end!
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: pakratt840 on June 12, 2017, 08:12:01 pm
Impressive! My fingers are sore just looking at the pictures. :'(
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: Tiburon on June 13, 2017, 05:15:22 pm
Very nice. I'm looking forward to seeing your work on the pain masks!
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on June 13, 2017, 09:19:34 pm
Very nice. I'm looking forward to seeing your work on the pain masks!

Hah! The masks will definitely be a pain!
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on June 18, 2017, 08:27:33 pm
Question for the group: what are the components highlighted by the black boxes?  More importantly, would you say they are lit in any way?
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: Tankton on June 18, 2017, 08:58:18 pm
Just in front of the bridge I believe are windows. The other two items are vents or thrusters. There
are more of those all over the ship.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: shrapnel2389 on June 18, 2017, 09:27:13 pm
the two near the phaser strips are the transport signal antenna , the ones near bridge are the "officers" quarters windows.  The Stenback blueprints list them as worf, data, laforge.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: Tiburon on June 18, 2017, 10:32:57 pm
Very nice. I'm looking forward to seeing your work on the pain masks!

Hah! The masks will definitely be a pain!

Ha ha. Yep. That's what happens when I type on the iPad. But still looking forward to them!
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: LynnInDenver on June 19, 2017, 08:00:03 am
Question for the group: what are the components highlighted by the black boxes?  More importantly, would you say they are lit in any way?

The ones right next to the bridge would be lit. The large pads right next to the phaser strip are not lit, and were always listed as the Transporter Emitters in any literature I've seen.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on June 19, 2017, 09:04:09 am
Thanks all!
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: MSgtUSAFRet on June 22, 2017, 07:51:31 am
Looking forward to seeing your painting scheme applied!

It should be awesome when done; tedious in execution!

Stay Strong!

Steve
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on July 01, 2017, 05:17:35 am
I could use a little advice on the nacelles (even though there are still hundreds of holes to drill).  The Enterprise C came with nacelles in three pieces: left and right halves and a separate piece for the bussard collector.

The Enterprise D nacelles are two pieces, upper and lower.  As I would like to light the nacelles, the collector end now poses a problem.  The seam will be right across the front.  Any thoughts on how the seam can be smoothed and the collector painted so as to minimize the appearance of the seam once the nacelle is lit?  I am also entertaining the thought of only painting the collector and not lighting it.

[been out of the country for a couple of weeks, so no progress]
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: LynnInDenver on July 01, 2017, 01:13:25 pm
The Enterprise D nacelles are two pieces, upper and lower.  As I would like to light the nacelles, the collector end now poses a problem.  The seam will be right across the front.  Any thoughts on how the seam can be smoothed and the collector painted so as to minimize the appearance of the seam once the nacelle is lit?  I am also entertaining the thought of only painting the collector and not lighting it.

There are a couple of options. First, use clear cement to glue it all together, polish the HELL out of the collector, and hope the seam ultimately doesn't show with the light. If you do paint, use something like a Tamiya clear red.

Second option is much more involved. Glue up and polish the nacelle like above, CUT OFF THE COLLECTOR, then take that resulting piece and cast it in clear resin.

This was the one part of that kit that I always feel AMT kind of missed the boat on in terms of engineering. Granted, at the time lighting it was almost practically a fool's errand since we didn't have white LEDs, so the only lighting that would fit in the bulk of it would have been tiny incandescent bulbs, but it still feels like a missed trick.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on July 02, 2017, 02:40:27 pm
Thanks Lynn, I've had some other thoughts as well, though the implementation will be decidedly non-canon.  Your thoght about cutting off the collector and going with clear resin is intriguing, though I have a very limited idea about how I would go about that.  Cut it off press into molding material, pour in resin...I think I could do that but it might be more than I'd like to tackle for this tiny kit.  still, now that the seed is planted...

In other news I have just about finished drilling on the upper saucer.  The aft portions were a goof in that I did not seal the decals after printing...have to do those over again.

Decals for the lower saucer (not including engineering) are placed and when dry I'll begin drilling those.

I have also figured out how to do my paint scheme--the idea came during my Sunday morning long run today.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: pakratt840 on July 02, 2017, 06:47:59 pm
Thanks Lynn, I've had some other thoughts as well, though the implementation will be decidedly non-canon.  Your thoght about cutting off the collector and going with clear resin is intriguing, though I have a very limited idea about how I would go about that.  Cut it off press into molding material, pour in resin...I think I could do that but it might be more than I'd like to tackle for this tiny kit.  still, now that the seed is planted...

In other news I have just about finished drilling on the upper saucer.  The aft portions were a goof in that I did not seal the decals after printing...have to do those over again.

Decals for the lower saucer (not including engineering) are placed and when dry I'll begin drilling those.

I have also figured out how to do my paint scheme--the idea came during my Sunday morning long run today.

To quote George Takei, "OH MY!!"

I've been trying to re-hab my old fiber optic 1/1400 scale 'D' by drilling out the windows. Haven't touched it in a few months. I can't imagine trying it on the 1/2500 scale. Superb work!
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on July 04, 2017, 03:45:13 pm
Total windows hollowed out to date: 479.  I'd guess that's not quite a third. 

Bad news: the windows on the lower saucer require three holes drilled per window, rather than the two on the upper saucer. 

Good news: many of the windows on the engineering section are too small to make into rectangles, so most of these will be one hole drilled.

Back to the nacelle question.  The picture below gave me an idea.  I could hide the seam in plain site by not trying to make it go away.  I will add some up/down pieces of styrene so that, combined with the seam, there is a 'grid' in the collector.  Not perfect, but I think it will work.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: MSgtUSAFRet on July 06, 2017, 07:41:43 am
Total windows hollowed out to date: 479.  I'd guess that's not quite a third. 

I think my next project is going to be a "C" and I am not looking forward to cutting out the windows. Stay strong and persevere! You can do this!

Back to the nacelle question.  The picture below gave me an idea.  I could hide the seam in plain site by not trying to make it go away.  I will add some up/down pieces of styrene so that, combined with the seam, there is a 'grid' in the collector.  Not perfect, but I think it will work.

Interesting! Wouldn't have thought to place a grid in the Bussard Collectors.

Another solution to the seam is to order some aftermarket parts for the Bussard Collectors. DLM, if he is still open, has a solid, red-colored piece for the collector that would really compliment your build. I ordered a set for the "C" and have it ready to go once I start. Downside is that it may take time to receive it and may cause an interruption in your build. Food for thought.

Still, this is looking good, Scott!

Keep at it and stay strong! ;D

Steve
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on July 09, 2017, 01:35:34 pm
I don't mind drilling the windows, much, but the more I think about the nacelles the less happy I become.  If I were to cut off the bussard collectors and cast them in clear, there would still be light leak issues to deal with.  Moreover, I still don't have a good idea on how the nacelles are going to get power in the first place. 

Most likely a thin and shallow trench could be cut from the engineering section through the nacelle struts.  I've seen this done before, but with larger kits.  This one is small, however, and thin.

Last for now, a note on how I go about cutting windows.  Lay down decals.  Use scribe to lightly press a divot into 1, 2 or 3 places depending on the length of the window.  Drill out these with appropriate sized bit.  Use hobby knife to punch through and connect the holes.  Use micro saw to hollow out and smooth.

Total windows to date: 657

Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on July 12, 2017, 06:58:28 pm
Still hoping for wisdom on the nacelles.  Though I don't want to slice them up, Lynn's idea is leading right now.

Total windows at present: 1058.  Yep.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: MSgtUSAFRet on July 14, 2017, 07:36:45 am
Still hoping for wisdom on the nacelles.  Though I don't want to slice them up, Lynn's idea is leading right now.

Total windows at present: 1058.  Yep.

Scott, I think your best bet is Lynn's idea. Although photobucket has hijacked my pics, I think using the acrylic sprinkle technique will work well; similar to my casting of the CM for the Protector build. While I haven't gotten my whole thread back up, this post (http://scifimodelaction.com/sfmaforum/index.php?topic=6438.msg86007#msg86007) is still there for you to look at.

Like Lynn says, you could assemble the two pieces (I assume two due to the seam), sand it to as smooth as possible. I have taken a hot instrument and flowed a bit of candle wax over the part; you could over the seam. Using a quick pass through of the part over the candle flame or a few waves of a heatgun/hairdryer to melt and further flow the wax onto the part, you can then use a damp cotton ball to polish the wax down; like you would put a shine on a military boot. The wax will also help with separating the pattern from the mold.

Then make your mold and use the acrylic and monomer sprinkle technique to layer and fill the mold with the acrylic. Then let it set, de-mold and finish.

That's how I would try and dupe it.

Hope this gives you some ideas.

Would love to see how you do get it dupped!

Steady as she goes!

Steve
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on July 14, 2017, 04:55:57 pm
Wow.  Finishing the collectors is going to be one serious pain in the patootie methinks.

In the meantime, >1100 windows now open.  Only part left is the small ones on the 'saucer support', aka, near the battle bridge.  I'll tap those tomorrow morning before taking a serious look at sawing off the collectors.  Yikes.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on July 15, 2017, 12:09:41 pm
Finished with window installation, a total of 1268.  Yikes.  Now on to the lighting part, which is far more fun.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: MSgtUSAFRet on July 15, 2017, 01:52:18 pm
Looks like you did a great job on the windows, Scott!

Well done!

What have you decided about the Bussard Collectors?

Keep going!!

Steve
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: pakratt840 on July 15, 2017, 05:18:11 pm
What type or brand of micro saw did you use? The X-Acto ones I have are barely small enough for the 1/1400 D windows.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on July 16, 2017, 03:14:16 pm
@Dan, I use Zona #33 micro saw blades.  I drill the windows, then 'punch' with an xacto, then slowly hollow out with the Zona.  Yeah, it can be a little painful and time consuming.

@Steve and Lynn, I'm going to go with the nacelles as is and work with it.  It'll be challenging enough without obligating myself to the new frontier of slicing off parts for molding.  However, I see now how some of these groups started...with a desire to make something just a tad easier for modelers.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: pakratt840 on July 16, 2017, 05:55:34 pm
Quote
@Dan, I use Zona #33 micro saw blades.  I drill the windows, then 'punch' with an xacto, then slowly hollow out with the Zona.  Yeah, it can be a little painful and time consuming.

Thanks Scott. I'll have to look into those.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on July 17, 2017, 08:23:53 pm
Warning: geek EE alert.
Fun fact, turns out that I've been running my LEDs at way to high a current.  The white LEDs run at 3-3.6V, with a max current of 20mA.  So, I figure, if I cut the current in half, so much the better.  On a lark I decided to try more resistance, then more resistance, just to see what would happen.  It's kind of hard to see in this pic, but the three lights have different resistances (1k, 2k, 3k), resulting in current ranges of (low) 6mA, (med)  3.4mA, and (high) 2.3mA.  Meaning you can rather dramatically lower the current, get nearly the same light, and increase the life of your LEDs (and resistors).

I'm sure some (or most) of you already knew this, but don't be afraid to try much more resistance!
(BTW, from left to right, 2k, 3k, 1k, and up close the one on the right is the brightest)
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: MSgtUSAFRet on July 18, 2017, 07:25:48 am
Warning: geek EE alert.
Fun fact, turns out that I've been running my LEDs at way to high a voltage.  The white LEDs are supposed to run at 3-3.6V, with a max current of 20mA.  So, I figure, if I cut the current in half, so much the better.  On a lark I decided to try more resistance, then more resistance, just to see what would happen.  It's kind of hard to see in this pic, but the three lights have different resistances (1k, 2k, 3k), resulting in current ranges of (low) 6mA, (med)  3.4mA, and (high) 2.3mA.  Meaning you can rather dramatically lower the current, get nearly the same light, and increase the life of your LEDs (and resistors).

I'm sure some (or most) of you already knew this, but don't be afraid to try much more resistance!
(BTW, from left to right, 2k, 3k, 1k, and up close the one on the right is the brightest)

Nope! Didn't know this!

So, just to make sure my pea brain understands this, for a white LED at 3-3.6V, with a max current of 20mA, I can use a 1-3K resistor, instead of the recommended 470 ohm resistor, and still achieve the same approximate lumens while dramatically increasing the life of my LED?

Suhweet!! Thank you, O Great One! I bow to your geekness!  ;D

Steve
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on July 18, 2017, 08:26:41 pm
@Steve, yes.  The LED will run at the same voltage, whatever that is, but you can drop the current substantially and get the same lumens.  Your resistors and LEDs will thank you!   Now I just need to get these all wired up.  Soon I hope, but I've got jury duty this week and it is really sapping my spare time.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on July 22, 2017, 03:18:46 pm
Getting closer to wiring things up.  At this moment a number of red, blue and white LEDs are 'burning in' to ensure they'll live. 

To power up the nacelles a tiny channel was drilled down through the 'strut' toward the outer portion.  A thin channel was then dug with a rotary tool to connect the hole near the nacelle to the engineering section.  As most of the attention will be from 'above' rather than on the sides, this will leave the upper/inner portion of the strut cleaner.  Holes were drilled sideways into the lower portion of the strut to get the wires inside.  A total of four wires will be run each side for redundancy (2+/2-).  Magnet wire will be used for the connections.

Three LEDs will light each nacelle, 1 red and 2 blue. 

The wires will be placed and puttied into place, then checked.  Next the lower nacelle half will be lowered into place, and the wire continuity checked again.  Finally, the LEDs will be soldered in place and checked before the nacelle halves are cemented together.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on July 23, 2017, 06:04:47 pm
These photos are all from the starboard engine assembly.  Two + and two - wires are run just in case.  After passing the wires up through the nacelle access cut, they are passed through the cut in the underhull section.  A small amount of putty is put into the trenches, then the wires are pressed into place.  With a little luck, after everything is smoothed all the wires will still work.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: MSgtUSAFRet on July 24, 2017, 07:54:02 am
Nicely done, Scott!

I guess, like most builders, I would have made the wire channels on the dorsal rather than the ventral. I see, after looking at your pics, there appears to be less detailed on the ventral and that side would allow a better sanding job! Good thinking, Sir!

BTW, I saw your PM. What did you figure out about the bussard collectors?

Keep going! You're doing some great work here!

Steve
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on July 24, 2017, 07:24:10 pm
@Steve, for the bussards I have decided on a combination of things, all designed to distract attention from the seams.  I will lay down some 'seams' from the opposite direction (up/down vs. left/right), and also create a few artificial 'divots' like those from the injection points at the tips of the collectors.  This way I hope to hide the seams and divots in plain sight, making them just part of the background.

Starboard nacelle wired up and tested SAT.  Unfortunately when testing port lighting assembly I touched the connections with no resistance...two LEDs DED.  Good thing I have more!  Now the starboard side is resting after a little gorilla glue application to keep everything in place. 

As for ventral/dorsal, I figured most of the viewing would be from above and the side, so the ventral was sacrificed.  Of course, the hope is between sanding and painting neither will have visible scars.

In this pic, the double strands of magnet wire are visible (two filaments for redundancy).  Also in view are 'blobs' of clear gorilla clue and the small piece of paper to help deflect the blue light away from the collectors.  (the tape will be removed once everything sets)

Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: MSgtUSAFRet on July 25, 2017, 07:41:48 am
Nice game plan, Scott! Sounds like you have things well in hand!

Doesn't look like you have a lot of room in the Nacelles. Whew! I feel for you, Brah!

Keep going! Can't wait to see this thing lit up!

Steady as she goes!

Steve
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on July 25, 2017, 07:44:55 pm
The initial test of the starboard nacelle indicates a pretty good joint along the warp engines.  Still not sure about the nacelle and I managed to seal it up without applying an inner 'grid.'   :o 

Never fear, an external grid of sorts can be applied with black paint before covering over with white and red.  Overall a pretty good fit.

Oh, and I managed, again, to smoke two blue LEDs in testing.  Perhaps I can avoid that tomorrow...
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: pakratt840 on July 25, 2017, 09:22:31 pm
Amazing work on this small kit, Scott. I've been working at a snail's pace on mine, and not even trying to light it, so kudos to your build just for that aspect alone. I found that the biggest fit issue with the nacelles was at the front of the chiller grills where they widen out behind the bussard collectors. Best I could do was minimize the seam so it kind of, sort of, almost blends into the grooves in the grill. I was able to eliminate the seam on the collectors after multiple putty, sand, rinse and repeat cycles. Why they had to put the sprue connections there and not on the sides where they could be cut flush easier I don't understand. Looking forward to seeing this lit up. Should be spectacular site. 
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: whb64 on July 26, 2017, 11:35:13 am
Warning: geek EE alert.
Fun fact, turns out that I've been running my LEDs at way to high a current.  The white LEDs run at 3-3.6V, with a max current of 20mA.  So, I figure, if I cut the current in half, so much the better.  On a lark I decided to try more resistance, then more resistance, just to see what would happen.  It's kind of hard to see in this pic, but the three lights have different resistances (1k, 2k, 3k), resulting in current ranges of (low) 6mA, (med)  3.4mA, and (high) 2.3mA.  Meaning you can rather dramatically lower the current, get nearly the same light, and increase the life of your LEDs (and resistors).

I'm sure some (or most) of you already knew this, but don't be afraid to try much more resistance!
(BTW, from left to right, 2k, 3k, 1k, and up close the one on the right is the brightest)
My buddy and I were playing around with resistors and different setups (one resistor per LED...  one resistor in series and LEDs in parallel...  as well as different values) and we also found that you can drop the current to almost nothing before the LEDs start getting dim. 
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on July 27, 2017, 08:47:46 pm
Well, third time's the charm.  Successfully soldered, placed, tested and sealed the port nacelle lights without smoking them!  Next will be sealing up the nacelles while placing lights in the saucer.  Question next is how, or if, to light the main impulse drive.  It is at the base of the saucer support (the neck) and not practical to light with it's own red LED.  <Buzz Lightyear voice> I have an idea....
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on July 29, 2017, 03:26:00 pm
Still work to be done on the nacelles, but it's time to begin work on other sections as well.  The deflector dish is now joined to the ujpper engineering section and everything has been masked in preparation for light blocking.  First will be a coat of flat black (rattle cans for all the light blocking) followed by gloss white. 

In a few places you will notice small strips of styrene.  After painting these will be unmasked and used to secure strip LED, one is in place on the saucer to give you an idea of how that will work.  The strip goes in and a tiny piece is placed astride to lock it in place.  Tomorrow should be soldering strip LEDs together.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: LynnInDenver on July 30, 2017, 11:10:17 am
Doesn't look like you finished the lower engineering windows there. Hope you deal with that before paint goes down, much less sealing things up. :o
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on July 30, 2017, 03:19:43 pm
Not sure I get your meaning Lynn, though I decided not to make them oblong, I've cut them wherever the decals had them.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: LynnInDenver on July 30, 2017, 05:39:11 pm
Not sure I get your meaning Lynn, though I decided not to make them oblong, I've cut them wherever the decals had them.

That's basically what I was seeing, not-oblong, just holes. Wasn't sure if it was deliberate or not.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: MSgtUSAFRet on July 31, 2017, 07:40:41 am
Scott, nice job so far!

I'm really likin the fixes you have! The styrene strips to secure the SMD strips is really inspired! Your idea?

The red lines on the saucer; is that where you are planning to route the wires? Or did I miss my guess as to their true purpose?

I'm not seeing your fix for hiding the bussard collector seams so I'm thinking they are on the inside and will only appear while lighted.

I admire your perseverance, especially with this scale. I would have lost my eyesight - even with loops!

Keep going, Sir! Good Job!

Steve
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on July 31, 2017, 07:10:47 pm
Not sure I get your meaning Lynn, though I decided not to make them oblong, I've cut them wherever the decals had them.

That's basically what I was seeing, not-oblong, just holes. Wasn't sure if it was deliberate or not.

Yeah, those little guys are so small that completing them as oblongs would have been very problematic.  Not the best look, but the max of what I could force myself to do.  I'm hoping that a sealant coat of clear (some time off) will fill them in rather than having to do each one by hand.

BTW, although this one was deliberate, please feel free to point out if you think I've left something out.  I'd much rather take another look then find out after the fact that I missed a thing easier fixed  before assembly.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on July 31, 2017, 07:28:55 pm
@Steve,  the collectors remain to be seen.  They need to be cleaned up (sanded and smoothed) before I will know what else needs to be done.  The seam across the front will be there, so the task is to distract the eye from it.  I plan to hide it in plain sight.  BTW, the color on the nacelles is great, just needs to be finished.

As for the saucer, the strip lighting is now cemented in place and the tiny wires run straight to the exit of the lower saucer.  This area already has some room to work, so nothing more was needed.  The magnet wire is small enough you don't have to avoid its being seen.

Tonight the strip LEDs were wired up, tested, cemented in place, and tested again.  Tomorrow will tell if the effect is good enough or if more are needed.  The lower engineering portion needs some sanding, as do the nacelles, so we are aways off from sealing anything together.  Saucer might happen tomorrow.

The final assembly sequence is: seal up saucer, cement saucer to upper engineering, wire up top/bottom and join the two engineering sections together.

And lastly for tonight, though the contact areas were covered with 'micromask' prior to lightblocking, it did not lift cleanly, thus the 'smudgy' looking areas around the edges.  Meh, they won't be visible.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: MSgtUSAFRet on August 01, 2017, 07:52:40 am
This is gonna be great, Scott!

I wouldn't worry too much about the 'smudgy' looking areas around the edges. Like you said, they wont be visible.

Understood about the Bussard Collectors.

Do you have ideas about the display base?

Steady as she goes, Helm!

Steve
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on August 01, 2017, 07:03:58 pm
@Steve, Haven't thought much about the base, though I am leaning toward the low-tech solution I used last time.  This kit is interesting in that it has the support inside for a stand, but no external hole...I need to drill that a bit deeper, and lower the part inside to supply adequate light to the deflector.

Did a lighting check tonight and found the strip LEDs are doing a wonderful job...except for the outer sets of windows on the upper saucer.   :o

I still had some tiny SMDs around from my last 1/2500 build, so 6 of these will be used in three pairs to light the outer portions.  Soldering done tonight, installation tomorrow.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: MSgtUSAFRet on August 07, 2017, 06:56:31 am
Scott, did you cast a clear part for the deflector?

It didn't look like you did, but I am curious as to how you are going to light it.

How did the soldering and installation go? Any update?

Keep going! I wanna see this one in lights!

Steve
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on August 12, 2017, 08:44:10 am
After some travel and a busy week, a chance to sit back down with this build.

The saucer is assembled now.  I forgot to take pictures of the upper section before sealing it up, but there is a tiny birds nest of thin wires after placing six SMD LEDs.  The strip lights worked well, but not enough on the periphery of the saucer.  As a result, there are two different color light sources, which actually looks pretty good. 

On the lower engineering section and nacelles, the sanding is complete and the lighting of the bussards is being evaluate.  Overall the seams are much less pronounced than I thought they would be, which is nice. 

Next step is to clean up the saucer then mount it to the upper engineering section.

Pics later today.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on August 13, 2017, 02:21:41 pm
Tested the lower hull and nacelles with primer.  Overall they look pretty good, but there a couple of spots that need attention.  After a couple more lighting checks, the upper engineering section is now joined to the saucer section.  This joint looks pretty good and will require a minimum of work. 

@Steve, I missed your asking about the deflector.  It will be lit by the same lights you can see in the engineering section.  The deflector will be masked and painted after final assembly.  A small amount of putty work will be needed when it is joined to the lower half.

Afraid I don't have your expertise with the clear castings!

Also, the nacelles are looking pretty good (including the bussards).  I'll post a pic of that soon.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: MSgtUSAFRet on August 14, 2017, 07:46:55 am
@Steve, I missed your asking about the deflector.  It will be lit by the same lights you can see in the engineering section.  The deflector will be masked and painted after final assembly.  A small amount of putty work will be needed when it is joined to the lower half.


Ah. I see. I would think the styrene, without any light blocking, would be thin enough to allow enough light to pass through. Clever thinking, Sir!

Afraid I don't have your expertise with the clear castings!


Sometimes I feel like this is my expertise on clear castings...
(https://thumbs.gfycat.com/ClosedNiftyBichonfrise-max-1mb.gif)

But,  ;D Thanks!

Still love to see your work!

Keep going!

Steve
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on August 18, 2017, 07:14:14 pm
So, tonight is the last post for a little while.  Headed to Wyoming for the eclipse, so no posts this weekend.  Tonight, however, I did the last cementing for the kit.  Previously the support (5/32" aluminum tubing) was glued into place using white gorilla glue.  I thought I would be able to extract the tube after it dried but nooope.

After soldering the wires together and sealing them with gorilla glue, the whole mess was cemented together.  Thus far, minimal light leaks and only a little putty work required.  The nacelles, however, are canted down, so after the eclipse trip I'll have the spouse unit hold the heat gun while I hold the nacelles in place one by one.  Should be a piece of pie.  Er, cake.

Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: MSgtUSAFRet on August 22, 2017, 07:54:06 am
Scott, I hope you had a good eclipse veiwing! The view here wasn't total coverage but still awesome and inspiring!

The build is looking good!

Just a couple of questions for you:

1. In the first picture you are showing teh wiring between the two hull halves. What are you gluing that mass to? I can't make it out from the picture.

2. What are the yellow spots on the primary hull? Does the thing have a case of space "Lurgies"?!

Still, looking nice!

Steady on, Captain!

Steve

Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on August 23, 2017, 07:33:19 pm
@Steve, the eclipse was frakkin awesome!  If you have not experienced totality, do it.

The 'mass' was just some clear gorilla glue to seal up the bare wires.  They were just stuff in place before cementing the halves together.

The yellow spots were marks identifying flares and bright spots. 

Next up on the list: putty the gaps around the deflector, apply heating to align the warp nacelles (not parallel to saucer when viewed from the side), sand off aft part of saucer, prime and check for smoothness.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on August 27, 2017, 01:32:53 pm
slow progress...

After cementing the hull and saucer parts together, everything looked pretty tight.  A light check, however, showed a number of leaks through the seams.  As I would rather keep the sensor strips recessed, I'm going to try Tulip fabric paint.  If it works, later I will paint over it with gray.  Still need to align the warp nacelles and finish sanding around the deflector.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on September 02, 2017, 09:21:33 am
I used a heat gun to gently nudge the nacelles into better alignment, and failed to look where the heat was being applied.   :o

This resulted in a small hole in the upper engineering section that fortunately was easy to putty.  Next, the hot spots during a lighting check were marked with sharpie, and a light coat of flat white and clear matte applied as primer.

Up next, applying a light gray base to everything before starting on the hull plating scheme.  Also need to figure out the necessary masking for how to finish up the nacelles and the deflector.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on September 04, 2017, 03:33:54 pm
In new news for the gnus who knew:
A few spots were painted with a different color from the four that will compose the hull plating, and a few of these were masked in small areas.  The purpose of these will be revealed later....(teaser trailer)

After that, the whole kit was given a coat of gray, a bit darker than I intended.  Then the masking was begun to much fanfare (the voices in my head were cheering).  I started at 0815 this morning and finished at 1600, with about a two hour break.  A total of 1295 masks placed.  Egads.

Next, apply color number two to the blank spaces.

Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: MSgtUSAFRet on September 05, 2017, 08:24:46 am
Scott, consider me watching with baited breath!!  ;D

That marathon masking it back breaking work! Good job!

I really am interested in seeing what you are gonna do with this technique!

Keep at it!

Steve

In new news for the gnus who knew:

HA! You kill me!  ;D
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: greg on September 07, 2017, 12:00:46 am
You're a madman! Lighting this tiny kit! WOW! I have the Cadet Series E and I won't light it. I think trying to light up the 1:1000 Refit is challenging enough as it is!
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on September 09, 2017, 10:24:13 am
Been a busy week, so not much progress.

The idea behind four colors is to have a pattern that does not have 'connection' all the way through.  This means alternating two sequences of two colors...and hoping I remember what is painted where. 

In the first pic the first set of masks is pulled up.  The revealed base color (color 1) is the darker color you see.  The lighter color is color 2.  Next, masks are applied to the areas of color 2 to be preserved.  To help me remember what is under the masks after the next coat is applied, the next set of masks to be removed is marked (I will try to avoid directly covering these when painting).   Masks will then be applied between these, which are the areas about to be painted with color 3.

The top half is done, so I'm about 1/2 way done with the project...then the nacelles (bussards and chillers), deflector and shuttle bays will have to be masked off and painted.  Not to mention the phaser strips.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: MSgtUSAFRet on September 11, 2017, 07:19:55 am
This is looking good, Scott!

Your use of hexagonal shapes to achieve your aztecing is truly unique. I don't know if "radical" is the right word, but it is radically different than the masking scheme you used on the Ent - C. In case I missed it, was this a technique you're trying out? What lead you to use these unusual shapes? Just curious.

I can also see your thinking through the process was you are marking specific masks with an assumed sharpie!

Keep going! The mind bending exercise is almost over! :)

Stay strong!

Steve
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on September 12, 2017, 06:34:17 pm
@Steve (MSgt), on the Enterprise C the aztec pattern was cut by hand but the 'curve' was able to be done with an 'radial cutting xacto' because the saucer was a circle.  The D, and the E, are goofy.  Not finding any aztec masks for the 1/2500, and not eager to see if the decals would work, I decided to go with masks.  I happen to like the effect from paint, though I must say some of the 'wallpapered' models here have turned out quite nicely.

Having decided on masks, I commenced using Google to find anything that might appear to work.  I was looking for a more organic feel, and considered leaves, etc.  After several hours I happened upon the 'triple hex' and saw how that might work.  Time will tell if the decision was a good one. 

Here is a shot after three colors (two now masked and the 'gold' needs to be masked before painting number four.)  BTW, I experimented with the pattern on the ventral side first.  The pattern is much better on the dorsal where a different pattern was used.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on September 16, 2017, 01:59:54 pm
Unfortunately I am at a hold while awaiting more masks.  I used up two sheets worth and need half or so to finish the underside.  Soon enough however, soon enough.  Then it will be masking  phaser strips, bussards and chillers.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: MSgtUSAFRet on September 18, 2017, 07:42:30 am
I hate waiting; especially on parts or materials!

Still, your paint schema is looking good, Scott!

As I am finding out with my build, the masking seems interminable! But the end result is worth the labor!

Never Give up!

Keep going!

Steve
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on September 24, 2017, 01:05:24 pm
Here's a pic with a good portion of the upper saucer masks removed.  Next up is to remove all of them, get rid of as much residual 'stickum' from the masks as possible, touch up the minor paint dings, and seal with gloss cote before moving on to the last of the painting:
-Nacelles
-Deflector
-Phaser strips
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: MSgtUSAFRet on September 25, 2017, 07:24:16 am
I LIKE IT! NICE!

This is really shaping up, Scott! The different colors almost look like the pattern on the BDUs I used to wear! (Grant, if I squint; which on a cellphone is pretty often!) :)

Are you going to be using decals for the life pods, too or will you be painting them on as well?

Keep going! This is looking good!

Steve
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on September 25, 2017, 07:45:08 pm
for the life pods I acquired some PNT decals.  Now the only problem will be trying to place them well!

Right now this is the 1701-D from the alternate universe, shortly after the Battle of Archer IV.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on September 26, 2017, 07:15:44 pm
Phaser strips masked off.  I told myself to do the underside first as a test, then promptly moved to the top...arrrgh.  First down was 2mm white Tamiya tape, then 4mm yellow Tamiya, then blue painter tape.  Now that it's done I can hardly wait to remove the tape!

Underside should be easier since the nacelles won't be in the way.  Then on to the nacelles and deflector!
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on September 26, 2017, 07:45:53 pm
A slight bit of clean up needed, but I like the results!
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: MSgtUSAFRet on September 26, 2017, 08:39:24 pm
That's looking great, Scott!

Sweet!
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on October 01, 2017, 05:03:21 pm
Arrrgh.  After fighting to get paint thinned correctly for the airbrush I determine that the nozzle is clogged and no amount of cleaning seems to fix it.  New nozzle, and a cleaning kit now on order.  Hmmph.  There are literally 2 square inches of painting needed.  Arrgh!
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on October 04, 2017, 07:01:12 pm
The new nozzle arrived and did prove that the fault was not solely my inability to mix/thin paint.

Final masks removed.  Now it's touch up, paint the chillers, and on to decals in a few days.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: greg on October 05, 2017, 01:37:48 am
How do you prevent the capillary action of paint from seeping underneath masking? Even at times when I think everything is just right, I still encounter problems. Other times it works out perfectly. It's maddening.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on October 05, 2017, 05:27:22 pm
@Greg, maybe I'm just lucky, but I have not had issues with capillary action.  I have used rattle cans and now an airbrush, and if you keep the coats thin and go a little at a time, there isn't any fluid to get the capillary action started.  On the other hand, if you use a brush, there is no way to prevent it.

A little grey touch up tonight, then seal up and decals for the weekend!
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: greg on October 05, 2017, 11:11:52 pm
Yeah, I think that's my problem. Sometimes I probably don't build it up lightly and gradually enough.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on October 07, 2017, 05:49:06 pm
@Greg, use rattle cans or light airbrushing and give the masks a shot.  Roger the maddeningness, but they can really deliver.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on October 08, 2017, 12:27:09 pm
Painting complete and sealed under gloss.  Next up decals, and redoing the sensor strips with Tulip.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: MSgtUSAFRet on October 09, 2017, 01:05:31 pm
Scott, this is setting the gold standard for this size and subject, IMHO!

Sorry to hear about the AB issues. I've got some to sort out myself.

What are you going to do with the Tulip paint on the phaser strips? Inquiring minds want to know.

Keep up the excellent work!

Steve
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on October 11, 2017, 06:39:13 pm
@Steve, it is the sensor strips.  Try as I might the upper/lower saucer and upper/lower engineering did not seal up completely, meaning light leaks straight out.  This is partly due to my not realizing until late in the process that part of the gap was to simulate the sensor strip that is found in this seam...My solution to making the strip a different color, and to seal the light leaks, was to brush Tulip in the gap and then wipe off the excess.  With the kit gloss coated, no problem.
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on October 11, 2017, 06:42:37 pm
And here is the finished product.  I'm happy with just about everything.  The deflector is too dark, and the light blocking on the nacelles is a bit weak.  The hull plating turned out quite nice, the lighting is bright and masking of the phaser strips went pretty nicely.  The lifeboats from PNT were nearly flawless (snaps if you see the one weakness...) and went nicely with the other decals salvaged from the AMT kit--which handled very well.  When I take some glory pics this weekend I'll post the backstory that goes with the 1701-D from "Yesterday's Enterprise."
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: MSgtUSAFRet on October 12, 2017, 07:29:11 am
Scott, this was/is an AWESOMELY OUTSTANDING build!

Thanks for the explanation, BTW. With this level of attention to detail, I wouldn't have guessed it was so small a scale. It really looks fabulous!

Very well done! A true testament to your prowess as a modeler!

What next?!

Steve
Title: Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
Post by: scottminium on October 13, 2017, 05:46:44 pm
Thanks Steve!