SciFi Model Action

Members Current Projects (WIP) => Members Current Projects (WIP) => Topic started by: Cpt-Spekkie on October 23, 2017, 09:03:35 am

Title: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Cpt-Spekkie on October 23, 2017, 09:03:35 am
While i was building Voyager i didn't think i would start a new ship this soon after the previous build. However the fact that my uncle was practically drooling over my Voyager has resulted in the situation were he has bought the ship from me, leaving me with no ship of my own and only my pride in the first build.  ::)

So that is why a couple of days ago i asked the question what would be a good replacement ship for me to build. Mainly because the Voyager was to big to be placed comfortably at my desk and in an other room it would be neglected, something that model did not deserve.

The decision has fallen (with the help of Gadgetron) on the 1:1000 Polar Lights kit of the NCC-1701 Enterprise Refit.

Certainly a challenge as i want to light this model in almost all the main features. So navigational and anti collision lights, flood lights, interior lighting of minimal all the windows that are molded in the plastic, the impuls/ warp cristal, impuls engines, warp grills, photon torpedo tubes and not to forget the deflector dish.

Wow just typing all that makes me realize that is a lot of led's for such a small ship.  :o

Luckily I found that Boyd was doing a diorama of the refit and Reliant in this scale, but unfortunately seems to have put that project on hold, because i can only find 3 video's on that one and he was a long way from being finished in the third video.  :-\ I guess other projects took priority as i can indeed understand. Luckily also found some other build logs on the forums and youtube, so have some reference material for my build.

This is going to be the first time i will use 0805 smd led's and even smaller 0402 as i had ordered two 0402 smd's for Voyager's floodlight but did not realize how small it actually was, so had not ordered a pre wired smd  ::) This time around almost all led's will be smd based, so i ordered the pre wired versions with 1K resistors on the led's. This should make keeping the lights in scale manageable.

When the parts arrive i will post an update and begin the process of building this kit.
And yes will implement all the lessons i learned building my Voyager, like step one, wash the model before painting  ;)


As always, any comments or tips for me, don't hesitate to post them as i do enjoy reading them all!
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: greg on October 24, 2017, 02:51:06 am
Wow. Good luck lighting this small kit! I have been slowly working on this kit (unlighted) for a couple of years now. I had to order a spare set of decals from R2 because the ones I have were shattering on me. The aztec decals don't all seem to be precisely measured as one would hope. :( I will soon have a second kit and I think that whenever I get around to building it, I would only light the nacelles, deflector dish, and such.

UNFORTUNATELY, Tetryon parts is on indefinite hiatus. I bought their resin replacement for the torpedo bay and it is fantastic. I wish I could have bought more.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Cpt-Spekkie on October 24, 2017, 03:31:40 am
Hi Greg,

I have watched your video's as well on Youtube and i have to admit, seeing the trouble you had to go through to install the torpedo bay was giving me second thoughts on some of the thing i want to do. But no i will stick by them for now.

Having said that, i loved your attention to detail in the video's and had hoped to see it completed. Maybe one day  ;)

As for the lighting, the plan is to do the lot. today or tomorrow will bring the smd's for the NAV, anti collision beacons, floodlgihts, impuls engines and crystal, torpedo tubes and deflector dish. The lighting for the interior and the warp grills i still need to decide what kind of tape i want to use. But for that i think i need to see the model in the flesh first. Also i may end up needing bigger led's for the deflector dish and impuls crystal.

Its definitely a shame Tetryon parts is no longer providing the ability for you to get a second torpedo bay. That resin part looked absolutely beautiful. Not that i would take in on to modify the kit in that way. Don't trust myself to bring that to a good result.  ;)
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: MattA on October 24, 2017, 07:44:57 pm
Be sure to pick up the photo etch set for the Refit, as it includes templates to drill out the windows on the saucer.  This is a life saver when lighting this one.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: greg on October 25, 2017, 08:27:56 am
Hi Greg,

I have watched your video's as well on Youtube and i have to admit, seeing the trouble you had to go through to install the torpedo bay was giving me second thoughts on some of the thing i want to do. But no i will stick by them for now.

Having said that, i loved your attention to detail in the video's and had hoped to see it completed. Maybe one day  ;)
Well, I tend to get thumbs down for it, but I have a policy to not hide my mistakes in my videos. The problem I had with the Tetryon torpedo bay part is that I am such a goofball that I made it far more difficult than it should have been. The great thing about the Tetryon torpedo bay is that there is no modification necessary to their part. The top of it is supposed to fit into the neck, but I thought that it was the neck itself, so I cut away that part of the model. Crap crap crap. So it's really easier than I made it out to be.

The other stupid mistake I made with this kit is that after I had some decals shatter on me, I made the stupid mistake of airbrushing the rest of the decals with Micro Set rather than Micro Decal Bonder. Nuts. The nice thing is that Round2 doesn't charge much for the replacement decals. Last year at the All-Japan Hobby Show, I bought the white plastic runners to this kit. I ordered the clear parts along with two decal sets so that I can finally finish my current project and eventually start another someday... and light it now that I'm becoming more comfortable with that.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: MattA on October 26, 2017, 02:06:17 pm
@greg: I just subbed to your channel.  It looks like there's a lot of good stuff there!

@Cpt-Spekkie: The 1:1000 refit was my very first model.  I built it about 5 years ago.  I've since built 2 of them, plus have a lit one in progress (and on hold).  It's a wonderful kit!  It's not too hard to make it look fantastic either.  Good luck, and I'll be watching your lighting progress!

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3949/14956250393_f224ba6f53_c.jpg)
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Cpt-Spekkie on October 26, 2017, 05:12:33 pm
Wow MattA that one looks so nice!

As for the progress so far:
The expected delivery of the model was between today and tomorrow, but for the last two days the tracking information shows it hasn't moved or at least not scanned anymore. So its daubtfull that it will arrive tomorrow, as it still needs to be handed over from the German post to our Dutch postal service.  :-\ Oh well, just have to wait a little longer i suppose.

AS for all the other ordered items, i have received all the smd lights i need, also got all the other led's such as some 3mm and 5mm for the deflector and such (like to have multiple options of lighting) and also a dc/dc stepdown board to reduce the voltage from 12V to 9V for some of the lights. (on Voyager and the Runabout i used 12V on the chiller grills and deflector and 9V on all the rest)

And as a first for me, i chose to not use the Velleman blinker board to do the strobe lights. This off course because the Enterprise has blinking nav lights unlike the runabout and Voyager.
So instead i created a dual 555 timer setup on a small piece of perf board. Made it as flat as possible, so that i can hopefully stow it in the saucer.

Also got me some magnet fire, (havent used it before, always did everything with utp networking cable) the smd's are pre wired and i wanted to have a little more in case i need more to connect everything up. The white primer and pearlescent white has also arrived. Only the flat clear needs to be ordered, but i will do that once i decide what clear i want specifically.


@MattA:
Thanks for the tip of the Photo Etch. I;ve looked but can't really get it for a reasonable price here, or in a quick manner for one thing. So i will try and create my own template for drilling the windows. One thought is to scan the decals (with an size indicator) and then trace the window decals and recreate them in Fusion360, so that i can 3D print a template from them.
An other approach would be to measure all by hand and recreate it in Fusion. If this fails, then i will look again and try and get the Photo Etch and put the project on hold for that time.

Also question for you MattA, since the decals include the windows in black, what are you planning on doing having drilled out all the windows? Are you planning on cutting the black pieces out of the decals? Or something like, placing the decals and then using a small drill to poke the decal windows out? Really interested in the technique you are using or will be using.  ;D
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: MattA on October 26, 2017, 11:08:13 pm
I haven't gotten that far on the lit one yet.  Odds are that I'll place the decals over the drilled out windows, then drill out the black dots (or just poke them out).  If it's done carefully, you'll never know they were there in the first place.

Good luck with the build!
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: greg on October 27, 2017, 01:24:19 am
Wow, Matt! That's very nice for a first model. I'm having problems with keeping the aztec decals fitting around the edge of the saucer, even with making incisions along the edge and using Tamiya Mark Fit Strong. I've had problems with them flaking. I hope when I put the perimeter decals on, it won't be obvious. My other problem is some air bubbles under the decals. I've poked them and applied the Mark Fit Strong many times. Nuts.

Some say the aztecs look too bold, but I like the comic book-type of feel they give. I sprayed mine with Tamiya rattle cans, first with Pure White and then with Pearl White. I really like how it turned out.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: MattA on October 27, 2017, 10:00:51 pm
the image isn't my first one, it's actually my second (or third, depending on how you look at it.) 

Here's my very first kit:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/7/6002/6009803851_301f3487cf_b.jpg)
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Cpt-Spekkie on October 28, 2017, 05:12:16 am
Very nice! If my build comes out at 80% of your first i would be a happy camper. (i know that lichting it will give an easy 20% jump start hahaha)  ;D

That is if the model ever arrives.  :-\
Yesterday was the latest day that the package should have arrived as per the expected delivery date. And i know delays can always happen. But the package is still at the second sorting center same at the 24th (last Tuesday). Luckily both the Ebay seller and me are in contact with the shipping company, and the seller has even given me his word that if the shipping company lost the package, he would send out an other. (hopefully by then with a different company to handle the shipping  ::) )

So i can't fault the ebay seller at all, but reading all the negative comments on twitter about Hermes Germany, i get the feeling he should never have used that company in the first place. But oh well.


At least it gives me some extra time to search for video's on Youtube and build photo's  ;D
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Cpt-Spekkie on November 03, 2017, 12:26:42 pm
Well with any luck tomorrow will be the day i can finally really start with the build as that is the day i should receive the model kit.
The first one seems lost in the mail, as it is still not delivered and the ebay seller was so kind as so send a new package through a different shipping company.  ;D

If the first one ever arrives i think i will keep that and contact the seller so that i can send him another payment, but only if that one ever arrives.  ;)
If not it should finds its way back to him, as non deliverable packages are routed back to the sender.

But really looking forward to the build of this model.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Cpt-Spekkie on November 04, 2017, 09:53:12 am
Small update,

The model did indeed arrive today, so finally i could make a start with unboxing, and getting the last materials i need as i can see for now.

So i also chose a 2.5mm headphone mono jack for the connector to bring in the power for the model.

(https://thumb.ibb.co/hts4Nb/IMG_1144.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hts4Nb) (https://thumb.ibb.co/gqN4Nb/IMG_1145.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gqN4Nb) (https://thumb.ibb.co/kPbaTG/IMG_1146.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kPbaTG)

But holy moly this thing is tiny and tight for space.  :o
Let the challenge begin.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: greg on November 04, 2017, 06:45:59 pm
I'm very interested in learning how to transform a headphone jack into a power connector.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Cpt-Spekkie on November 04, 2017, 08:39:39 pm
Hey Greg,

Well basically a headphone jack and a dc jack are not that different from each other. Also the headphone plug and dc plug that go on the cables are very similar.

(https://thumb.ibb.co/goBFDG/IMG_1153.jpg) (https://ibb.co/goBFDG)

For my install i chose a mono plug and counter plug setup. So its in essence a 2 wire connector. If you use a stereo connector you get 3 wires. So for setups that would want to attach 3 wires to the model, for instance power, ground and a switch wire, then you could use a stereo setup. or even a 4 wire plug if needed. But those will result in bigger connectors that need to be installed in the ship. So thats why i went with the basic mono version. I only need power and ground as all the electronics will be in the model.

As you can see on the picture, the cable plug end has 2 tabs (same as a dc plug) and also the same as by a dc plug, the shorter one it for normally the positive wire of a speaker and the longer one for the ground. In our setup this means that the shorter tab is connected to the front portion of the stem that goes into the socket. The longer tab is then connected to the back portion of the stem.

On the counter (panel side) model side of the connection, we see 3 tabs. The two shorter once are in my case color coded, one is koper color and one silver. The silver corresponds to the positive and the coper to the ground. The longer tab also reads as a ground. So when i plug both connectors together as they would be when the model is plugged into the pole and i use a multimeter to test for continuity, i get a connection from the shorter tab to the silver tab, and from the longer tab to both the longer and the koper colored tabs.

This means that i may choose which of the ground tabs i want to use inside my model and also i only need to connect the 2 tabs inside the model. So one tab will remain unused.

Hopefully this brings some insight in how to use a headphone plug and socket for power.


On a sidenote, here is my progress so far.

I drilled out all the molded windows of all the parts, modified the nacelles so that the led strip can be glues to the outside nacelle wall, so that i get a little bit more room for the light to blend and be defused. (Also i will be replacing the transparant nacelle grills with my own designed and 3D printed inserts. Not that i planned this, but i unfortunately snapped one in half when trying to dry fit the model  :-\ So will have to print a replacement part for myself. And think i'm going to substitute both for translucent blue 3D printed inserts. More on this when i have designed them and printed tem out.

Also the windows in the rim of the saucer, because i don't have the photo etch, i thought of making my own template, well wat i ended up doing was i made a copy of the decal sheet and used the printed out paper version of the window sections to temp stick them with scotch tape to the rim and drill out the windows. Well that was a big mistake.  ::)
Some of the windows are in the correct place, but most of them (especially the longer windows) were not in line and parallel (bit wandered because there was no indentation to hold it). What i will end up doing is putty the misaligned windows and leave them closed. The ones that are nice will remain open. That way we just have some of the windows lit. (Good enough for this small model)

here some pictures of the progress:
(https://thumb.ibb.co/iDX5DG/IMG_1147.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iDX5DG) (https://thumb.ibb.co/h3K7Sb/IMG_1154.jpg) (https://ibb.co/h3K7Sb) (https://thumb.ibb.co/e0gbLw/IMG_1155.jpg) (https://ibb.co/e0gbLw)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/j95QDG/IMG_1156.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j95QDG) (https://thumb.ibb.co/cDCi0w/IMG_1158.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cDCi0w)

As always i welcome any comments, questions and suggestions.
Tomorrow (Sunday) will consist of light blocking the inside, and hopefully gluing in the led lights.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Spencer on November 06, 2017, 05:53:12 pm
How well did the headphone jack fit into the pre-drilled hole? Any modification needed? Looked like a nice fit in the photo.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: greg on November 06, 2017, 06:44:48 pm
Holy crap, teach me! So I'd heard about using earphone jacks before, but this is the first time I've seen this in use. OK, so if there are three connection leads on a stereo headphone jack, would it be possible to use a 2-way blue and amber LED (http://hdamodelworx.com/5mm-Bi-Polar_c_32.html) in the model and switch between the two colors? This is very cool to see.

I had bought the white plastic parts from the Platz booth at the All-Japan Hobby Show last year (Platz is the distributor for Round2, Moebius, Pegasus, and others and jacks up the prices). I recently obtained the clear parts as well as a new decal set and have a whole new complete kit of this, while I am still slowly building the other. What I am very disappointed is that Tetryon Parts is no longer in operation, and their torpedo bay replacement part (http://tetryon.ca/refit1000.php) is so fantastic because that part of the model is really lacking detail. I am fortunate that I bought one for my current model, but I really hope he will make more in the future.

Now that I am learning how to light model kits, I want to retackle this kit eventually. Plus my friend recently sent me the 1:1000 Reliant as an early Christmas gift and it would be great to have both of these kits side-by-side lit up. Maybe not the nav lights at this small scale, but at least the windows, nacelles, and deflector dish.

EDIT: What size of LED tape are you using? 0805? Is it blue or white?
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Cpt-Spekkie on November 07, 2017, 04:33:29 am
@Spencer,
The jack was a little bigger then the original hole. So i enlarged the hole slightly with a hobby knife and then glues the jack in place. I could not use the nut that normally goes onto the jack because the thread was not long enough and then the jack would be at a slight angle and i wanted it perfectly horizontal.

@Greg,
Funny that you are saying teach me, while i used your video's for preparation of this build.  ;D
As for the questions, the earphone/headphone jack was the idea of my dad. We were sparring when i was building Voyager of what i wanted to use, at that time i was searching for a multi wire connector. In the end i used a normal DC jack for Voyager, but i remembered the discussion and now i could use that perfectly for the small refit.

As for using a stereo connector, its only 3 wires, so that would be power and ground as we need these 2 always in our models and then one more wire that you can use. I don't really know how these 2 color led's work, but i would surmise they have a common ground and then 2 power leads, one for one color and the other for the second color. If that is the case, then its not a good idea to supply both pins with power. So i would guess you still would need some sort of control board to switch the pins on the LED. You could however use the 3rd wire to send a signal to this control board that does the color switching. (Does that make sense?)

As for my build, i will post an update later today (now at work) but suffice it to say its coming along,, but man what is space tight in this model!
I already had to scrap the floodlights on the underside of the saucer, (because of space issues and a faulty led) luckily the top floodlight is in place and looks to be working in casting light on the saucer.

All nav lights are 0805 individual led's, and the floodlight is a 0402. The blue led strips in the nacelles are 0805 based if i'm not mistaken (was a remnant of the strips i used in the Voyager build). And the while led strip peaces i'm using for the interior are 5050 led's (also remnant from Voyager).

Also would you think i could get replacement parts for the clear chiller grills in the Netherlands for this model? As i snapped one in half, i can design and print my own. But if i can get replacements at a reasonable price and in time, then why not go the original route.

Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Cpt-Spekkie on November 07, 2017, 04:36:31 pm
As promised time for the update:

Well a lot has been done to the model. First i really am having issues with light blocking the plastic from the inside. 1 layer of primer, 2 layers of black and 2 layers of white, and still i get light bleed at the locations as were the pegs are and the tekst is located.  ::) So I'm thinking of also light blocking from the outside. With a black layer and then a couple of white primer coats, before going on to the pearlescent white.
Next this model is to tight for space its almost not worth it, but trust me its worth it  ;)

Second oops moment, the plastic is thin and magnet wire seems to like to get hot when soldering. So hot in fact that it melted into the top saucer  :o Luckily i got it just in time, as to not go completely through. So thats why i used plastic putty to build up material on the mishap so that light bleed is no longer an issue at that place. Sigh! crisis averted...

(https://thumb.ibb.co/bWZPAw/IMG_1160.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bWZPAw) (https://thumb.ibb.co/i4KD3G/IMG_1162.jpg) (https://ibb.co/i4KD3G) (https://thumb.ibb.co/nDYvHb/IMG_1163.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nDYvHb)

So continuing on it was time for my earlier build 555 timer circuit to be test fitted in the saucer, and did i mention this thing is tight? Well some snipping later and the board was even more trimmed and seemd it would just fit in the center of the model. Well it has to do, i cant really make it smaller now can i.  :P

(https://thumb.ibb.co/e3MMqw/IMG_1164.jpg) (https://ibb.co/e3MMqw) (https://thumb.ibb.co/eQyecb/IMG_1165.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eQyecb) (https://thumb.ibb.co/eDTqiG/IMG_1166.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eDTqiG)

Back to placing the led's and lets dry fit the secondary hull with pylons and nacelles to see if it all fits.

(https://thumb.ibb.co/fOg4Aw/IMG_1167.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fOg4Aw) (https://thumb.ibb.co/m4j2xb/IMG_1168.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m4j2xb) (https://thumb.ibb.co/mcjfiG/IMG_1169.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mcjfiG)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/hXKrqw/IMG_1170.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hXKrqw) (https://thumb.ibb.co/jr6hxb/IMG_1172.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jr6hxb) (https://thumb.ibb.co/fcED3G/IMG_1173.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fcED3G)

Well okay that looks to be working, however one problem, the plastic cement is not holding when you have painted the parts. As i obviously knew building Voyager. On Voyager though i had an easy time removing the paint where i needed to place the glue because of the size and the fact that model was not cleaner properly on the inside, so the paint was flaking by itself if not careful. But here i cleaned the entire model as it should be done, and thus it was screwing up this plan.

I decided to just continue building by using the snapping nature of the model and going back with CA glue and activator on the places that need extra adhesion. Also i will putty the seems, so will address this later.

Installation of the deflector led, i had a thin peace of black PLA plastic that was made for the Voyager build (a sizing test for its deflector wall) and this could be easily cut to size and drilled to hold one 3mm blue led.
And a very preliminary light test of the nacelles and engineering interior lighting.

(https://thumb.ibb.co/cPc5Hb/IMG_1176.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cPc5Hb) (https://thumb.ibb.co/mU8ZAw/IMG_1177.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mU8ZAw) (https://thumb.ibb.co/btekHb/IMG_1179.jpg) (https://ibb.co/btekHb)

And lastly i snapped a picture just before testing if the saucer could still close with all the wiring and electronics in place.
Short answer, yes it will close.
Long answer, because i remove some of the pegs, i need to glue the saucer on a later date, when i'm completely satisfied the electronics will continue to work.

(https://thumb.ibb.co/eBoecb/IMG_1184.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eBoecb)


So this is were i'm at, basically all the lighting i can fit in the model is in the model. All lights are working, but i have only tested it with a 9V battery and guess what, it doesn't have enough power for the full system to operate. As when the NAV lights go out, the interior lighting go up, and vice versa. Also the nacelle lighting is a lot dimmer. So i need to track down or go and get a 9V 1A of 9V 1.5A wall adapter.
Normally i build for 12V, and use a dc-dc converter for the 9V systems in the models, but placing a converter would have ment even more wiring, so no i chose to make the whole model 9V and just get an other adapter.  ;)

Am i done with the model, far from it. Lots of things to do, but for now the electronics are done. So i'm pleased that it worked and that in just over 2 days.  8)

As always, questions, tips and all other remarks, don't hesitate to respond.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: greg on November 07, 2017, 10:49:53 pm
You can try contacting Round2 about the replacement clear parts. I can send you an email of the guy who handled my request. I will send that to you via PM so as not to publicly broadcast it.

Here is a tutorial for the blue/amber lights for the deflector dish: http://virtualight.com/?p=1351 I would think that using a 2-way LED like Jerry has at HDA would be even better. I am just learning this stuff and I first want to solder up a 555 timer chip. Baby steps!

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TP8D3m-qepE/VpEAkT7WFMI/AAAAAAAAVvY/XmS-EdJ_tdk/s1600/babysteps_book_cover.jpg)
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Cpt-Spekkie on November 08, 2017, 05:24:32 am
Hey Greg,

Thanks that would be helpful. I will send you a message through PM for that.

As for the 555 timer setup, i just googled it and fount this page 555 timer Enterprise Refit schematic (http://www.colosseumbuilders.com/john/trek/circuits.html)

But yeah if soldering electronics ist really your thing than baby steps is a good way to go.  ;)
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: greg on November 08, 2017, 10:17:35 pm
That same site I linked to before has a wiring schematic for a 556 chip, which is essentially two 555 chips in one.
http://virtualight.com/?p=1199
I haven't had the occasion to replicate this, but it takes care of the strobes and flashing nav lights at once.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Cpt-Spekkie on November 09, 2017, 01:16:16 am
In other words i should have done a little more research and then i could have used the 556 chip in stead of my 2 555 ships.
Yeah that could have been a little smaller, as now there was a few lines of space between the chips. But luckily it would not have been a huge difference  ;)

On the planning for today, get a decent 9V power adapter test the lighting for a final time and then glue the ship in its final form. After that putty the seems.
Then tomorrow i guess it will be painting day. Although i still need to come up with a way to mask off the led lights for painting, as i don't want to get paint on top of my led's.

any suggestions?
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Spencer on November 09, 2017, 10:55:13 am
A little white (Elmer's) glue has worked for me in the past.
Just enough a dab over the LEDs to cover them should do the trick and if you get too much, you can clean it up with water and try again.

Then you can peel it away when your done painting.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Cpt-Spekkie on November 12, 2017, 02:11:07 pm
Time for an update:

Most of the mayor work has been done. The lighting systems are now complete. I decided to open up the nacelles one last time and augment the blue led strip of 3 led's with an additional 4th smd led, so that the lichting is a little more even. Without this the left and right sides were a lot dimmer than the middle. Also i found out i had a loose connection in the saucer that resulted in a failing of the warp/impuls crystal ad the interior lighting strips. So was glad i can't glued the thing down yet.

So after all that i glued her up, and made all the parts nice and solid were needed. Putty'd all the seems i could find.
Painting was next: I had already got two coats of the white primer on the hull, but decide to follow up with a coat of medium grey for an additional light blocking layer. Black would be better, but i was not sure if i had enough white left to bring the ship back from a black layer. So grey was a safer choice. For this i used 2 white coats again and after that 2 coats of the Tamiya pearlescent white.

Today i painted up the detail parts as far as i can. (don't have a blue color in house, so the dug egg blue stuff is going to be left white. At least the painted blue parts, the decals will take care of a lot if i'm not mistaken. So things tike the strong backs would still have the correct color i think.

Then there was the issue of my snapping one of the chiller grills in halve on the first day. And although Greg very kindly helped me to the contact details of Round2, i decided i didn't like the look of the original chiller grills anyway. Mostly because of the tabs that were used to hold it into place. I can still order some if i really need to, but for now i have designed some replacements of my own and printed them in PETG plastic. (like the drink bottles)

Decided to print it in 2 color process, white at the bottom (semi translucent) and translucent blue on the top (same as i used in my printed Runabout model). I tried to replicate the concave shape of the grille, but also wanted to do something special with the bars as we need to create 5 distinct bars of light. So i made these bars (0.4mm wide) a little taller then on the original grille. This way i could use a back permanent marker to color the tops of these black. (tried changing the plastic color for this like i did from the white to the blue, but the black didn't like to stick very well) The white bottom part was done for some sort of diffusion of the light, and it kind of works.

Here some of the shots of the model with the lighting going. (oh and the camera does wash out some of the blue color and intensifies the hotspots, in real life these are a lot smoother and more toned down.)

(https://thumb.ibb.co/kzYD8G/IMG_1248.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kzYD8G) (https://thumb.ibb.co/fCW0oG/IMG_1249.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fCW0oG) (https://thumb.ibb.co/fGgGTG/IMG_1250.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fGgGTG) (https://thumb.ibb.co/e71uFw/IMG_1251.jpg) (https://ibb.co/e71uFw)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/nyY22b/IMG_1252.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nyY22b) (https://thumb.ibb.co/hxrBvw/IMG_1253.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hxrBvw) (https://thumb.ibb.co/iux6TG/IMG_1254.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iux6TG) (https://thumb.ibb.co/m1gphb/IMG_1271.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m1gphb)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/chQRTG/IMG_1275.jpg) (https://ibb.co/chQRTG) (https://thumb.ibb.co/gFZLoG/IMG_1276.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gFZLoG) (https://thumb.ibb.co/ngMdaw/IMG_1287.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ngMdaw) (https://thumb.ibb.co/dHirvw/IMG_1291.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dHirvw)


As for now, tomorrow i embark on an away mission to a few days of holiday.  ;) Altho i'm seriously considering bringing the model with some of the decal supplies and maybe when i have an couple of off hours in the vacation home, to do some modeling on the little ship.

So in this comes a question, the finish on the model is now the pearlescent paint, should i still apply a clear gloss coat before doing the decals? Or is this pearlescent coat smooth enough?

And as always, tip,s comments or questions, don't hesitate to reply. I may be gone a few days, but the internet is never far away.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: LynnInDenver on November 12, 2017, 02:34:39 pm
So in this comes a question, the finish on the model is now the pearlescent paint, should i still apply a clear gloss coat before doing the decals? Or is this pearlescent coat smooth enough?

It might be, but a coat of clear gloss is good insurance if it isn't, especially with wallpaper decals.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Cpt-Spekkie on November 12, 2017, 03:08:03 pm
Thanks Lynn fr the fast reply.

Better to go the safe route then.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: greg on November 12, 2017, 06:59:44 pm
I am certain that I would be able to progress more quickly with my modeling projects if I wasn't such a spaz who works on too many models simultaneously.

The snap fit of the clear parts really does look ugly, and it is why I decided to paint these areas opaque on my unlit model. Those pieces you made look very nice!

I cannot recall if the decals take responsibility for the duck egg blue parts or not. I did paint these as such. I have noticed that the decals are a bit odd. For example I had problems with the pylon decals because the decals actually extend into the parts that will snap into the other parts. I hope you are better at decaling than I am. I need to strip these decals off and redo them with the replacements I got recently because they shattered (mostly my fault).

So your timer chips are located in the saucer? I figured they would be better placed inside the engineering hull, but then again I have not touched this model in a long time.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Cpt-Spekkie on November 13, 2017, 12:30:39 am
Hey Greg,

Thank you for the complement on my parts and yes painting the origionals would have been possible to if i hadn't snappe them in the first place.  ;)

As for the timer electronics, i would have preferred them in the engineering hull as well like i did on the Voyager, but on this model with the board i made it was just not possible. No room in the engineering hull. After all my wires and the power plug was installed, it was almost filled to the brim. So thats why.i opted for the saucer. The middle of that was just big enough to house it and not interfere to much with the lighting.

For the rim windows i should have got a very thin / small led strip and place them around the rim, because of the concave nature of the bottom saucer, but i opted not to do this as i mostly butchered these windows anyway. So just putty'd them back shut and only left some open to give a hint of light.

As for the dugegg blue parts, i will investigate the decals when i get back from my little vacation, and then if i see i'm missing most of the blue parts, i will order some dug egg blue or similar.

For now i'm happy with it, but i will not be bringing the model on vacation with me. So scared to damage the model in the journey.

Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Cpt-Spekkie on November 26, 2017, 03:54:59 pm
Time for an update boys and gals,

I had hoped to complete the build this weekend, but i didn't get that far as there was a lot of unexpected work in installing new tv's here in the house.
This was the first real Black Friday year for the Netherlands, there were a lot of great discounts at a lot of places.  8)

Having that said, i strive to do the last decals this week in the evenings. As this Monday is also the first day after my vacation. So back to life, back to reality for me.

Decalling the Enterprise so far is a real experience in itself. The Voyager was as you know my first real decal project, but this astek wallpaper stuf is quite interesting. And i was sure i would screw this up badly, to my surprise however i managed to not do that quite yet. So maybe i can complete the work without mayor crimes.

For the most part i'm really pleased with the result. Only thing i had done was try and drill the rim windows and had puttied most of them shut because they turned out badly. I should have puttied them all closed, but i chose to leave some open so that some of the windows would be lighted. Having placed the decals now, i can see some of the left open windows are not perfectly centered on the rim, and thus resulting in not a perfect alignment with the decals. Luckily its not to noticeable, only for myself and for the diehards here on the forums ;)

So here are the pictures:

(https://thumb.ibb.co/cDXT8R/IMG_1406.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cDXT8R) (https://thumb.ibb.co/nqwo8R/IMG_1407.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nqwo8R) (https://thumb.ibb.co/m2A4hm/IMG_1408.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m2A4hm) (https://thumb.ibb.co/hD04hm/IMG_1409.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hD04hm)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/c94QoR/IMG_1393.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c94QoR) (https://thumb.ibb.co/hcWuhm/IMG_1394.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hcWuhm)

Myself i'm very happy with the results so far and especially with the fact that the floodlight is lighting up the registry and name of the ship. Something that with the Voyager was not completely possible because of the drop down in the hull. Here the concave nature helps light the section up nicely.

Still to du now is:
- continue decalling the asteks on the nacelles.
- continue decalling the details like the Starfleet striping/logo on the secondary hull and the registry on the nacelles.
- spray gloss clear over the decals for protections / sealing them in.
- spray clear matte as a final finish to bring back the gloss and blend everything into one.
- Design and 3D print a stand mount for mounting this ship on my PC monitor as that is to be its final resting place.

As always, comments, questions and remars are more then welcome!
I enjoy reading them all.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: greg on November 26, 2017, 11:06:01 pm
Very nice! I need to finish my own project. I will want to redo the aztecs on the pylons. Unfortunately, I have already used Tamiya Mark Fit Strong on them, so I may not be successful at removing them with tape alone.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: MSgtUSAFRet on November 27, 2017, 07:30:47 am
Cpt-Spekkie, this is looking very good! I had to re-read the title to make sure it wasn't a 350 scale!

Well done!

Steady as she goes!

Steve
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Cpt-Spekkie on November 27, 2017, 02:13:07 pm
Thanks Greg and Steve!

@MSgtUSAFRet (Steve) Remember when starting the Voyager i said i would never build the 350 scale because i though it would be to hard?
Well building this 1000 scale ship has me thinking the challenges of lighting such a small thing is harder then the 350 scale. That being said, the bigger one is harder because of painting, and making sure the nacelles are perfectly level and such.

But yes very happy with the result so far. I will keep the helm steady sir!
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: greg on November 27, 2017, 09:28:08 pm
I think lighting a smaller kit would be rather difficult. I don't have much experience, but smaller kits have narrower internal sections in which to place wires. What will you use for the strobes? 0402 SMDs? I'd be afraid of using fibers because I might break them.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Cpt-Spekkie on November 27, 2017, 11:30:38 pm
Indeed internal space is very limited.

For both the red and green nav lights as the strobes i used 0805 SMDs, so they are a little bigger then the 0402. I bought them pre wired with a 1K resister per led.
For the floodlight at the front (and initially on the bottom, but discarded them) i used 0402 SMDs that were also pre wired with 1K resistor.

Oh and also i used the 0805's for the torpedo's and impuls engines.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Cpt-Spekkie on December 02, 2017, 05:27:23 pm
Its almost a wrap on project 2 for me.

The decals are done, both nacelles have been fitted with the astecs and registry numbers. After that stage i sealed the ship in gloss clear and when that had enough time to dry (24 hours) i followed up with one coat of matte clear. So that makes that the ship is now fully complete.

However its not quite the end of the project, because the power cable with switch and monitor stand are still in development. The ship is hanging off / standing on the monitor, but needs some tweaking.

Although not fully complete i didn't want you guys to wait any longer for a few pictures.
The pictures were taken at night, so no real quality pictures just yet. Those will come in a few days when i have had time to complete the project fully.

(https://thumb.ibb.co/jQi7QG/IMG_1428.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jQi7QG) (https://thumb.ibb.co/eFJJXw/IMG_1429.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eFJJXw)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/jBqnQG/IMG_1430.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jBqnQG) (https://thumb.ibb.co/fgXOzb/IMG_1431.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fgXOzb)

(https://thumb.ibb.co/djVhsw/IMG_1442.jpg) (https://ibb.co/djVhsw) (https://thumb.ibb.co/ekS6Kb/IMG_1444.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ekS6Kb)

As for me i'm really liking the fact i have an Enterprise sitting on my monitor, but i think i will place a little piece of double sided tape between the stand/cli[ and the monitor, to ensure it stays put.
Right now its just hanging off the edge. And yesterday my 3D printed spitfire (left side) came crashing down (smaller clip with less of a lip on the front) and that broke a propeller of the plane. And i can't seem to find it, so hope i find it soon so that i can glue it back on. Otherwise i need to print a new one, and i can't remember the scale i did the original one at  ::)

As always, i'm keen to hear what you guys think.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: scottminium on December 02, 2017, 06:04:31 pm
Wow!  Very nice work!
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Decoman on December 03, 2017, 01:09:39 am
Btw, If you are going to use some masking tape and add a little bit of gray with a small brush along the top bottom part of the nacelle where the black is, I recommend putting the masking tape on a flat and hard surface, and cut a new straight edge with a sharp blade, to get the best edge, as the edge of the masking tape might not be the best. It would be important to try get a perfectly straight line using a small metal ruler (or plastic, if you are careful).
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Cpt-Spekkie on December 03, 2017, 08:29:29 am
Thanks Scottminium,

@Decoman, does there need to be grey at that part? do you have an example for me to look at?
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: greg on December 03, 2017, 07:25:22 pm
So what difficulties did you have with the decals? I had problems around the dish. I think maybe the best way to do this is to apply several coats of clear while applying the decals because I have had the decals wear away in some parts due to handling and such.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Cpt-Spekkie on December 03, 2017, 11:21:54 pm
I have to say Greg, that i didn't have to much difficulties with the decals.
I had applied two coats of the gloss clear and that made my surface quite smooth, so started with the first pie slice on the bottom of the saucer and it went on easily.
The slices were to wide, so i would have liked if the decals would have been cut a little narrower, but a sharp scalpel blade made sure i could trim it in some places.
And at other places i just overlapped the pie pieces a little and no one would notice. (I did make sure that no real pattern would overlap, because otherwise that would become darker and that would have been noticeable.)

And after that enough Micro sol so that the decal sank into the paint. 3 or 4 applications in total.
I did have some of the decals break on me, such at the registration mark on the side of the saucer, but with some extra water and careful adjustment i could line it up so that it looked like it was still in tact.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: greg on December 04, 2017, 12:37:36 am
I had some problems getting the edges of the saucer aztecs to conform around the edge of the saucer, even after slicing the ends. I also wasn't sure exactly how far up the aztecs should begin, in relation to the bridge or the sensor thingy on the bottom.

One thing's for sure is that I intend to do a clear coat on the aztecs before I try putting the other decals on top of those.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Cpt-Spekkie on December 04, 2017, 03:45:43 am
Yeah knowing were to place the slices is a little difficult. Especially because some are to long and thus need to be trimmed because the bridge / sensor dome were already installed on my ship. The saucer edge sides of the slices i had sliced in 2 places per pie slice and that worked for me.

After the first layer of decals had dried for about 20 hours, i went ahead and applied water to the place i wanted to place the second layer decals, such as the registry number. and sure enough they went on without to much trouble. Having said that, i can surely understand wanting to apply a layer of clear coat between the decals first. And i debated to do this myself, but tested it on a small decal and when that worked i went ahead without the in between coat.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: greg on December 06, 2017, 10:01:44 pm
I recently bought some headphone jack sets at a local online electronics retailer and I want to try this out as a power connector. Do you know of any diagrams online to follow as a guide? Thanks.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Cpt-Spekkie on December 07, 2017, 05:51:14 am
I don't really have a diagram or followed a diagram to be honest.
On most audio plugs you have 2 or 3 tabs to solder the wires on. normally they are color coded like silver and koper color. they should correspond on both plugs. So silver goes to silver and koper to koper.

What i did however was use a multimeter in continuity mode (beep mode) and test which tabs were connected to each other. To take off the plastic covers of the plugs, put them together and then test. That way i knew for sure if the silver tab of plug 1 was connected to the silver tab on plug 2 and that also for the copper colored one.

Essentially just as if it was a normal DC power plug.

As for which of the tabs you use for the positive wire and which for the negative, Thats up to you. I did however with the mono plug i had choose to use the end part of the male jack for positive and the part behind that for negative. Again using a multimeter to test which tab (silver or koper) corresponds to the end part of the male stalk. Once you have tested this, then you know on which color tab you can solder the positive wire.

Hope this helps.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: modelerdave on December 08, 2017, 09:09:35 am
Really nice work. You really jammed a lot of lights into a small model. It looks fantastic.
Title: Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
Post by: Cpt-Spekkie on December 08, 2017, 10:17:41 am
Thank you Modelerdave.

Indeed quite a few lights that were put in.