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Members Current Projects (WIP) / 1/650 TOS Connie
« Last post by Tankton on Today at 07:43:47 pm »
Here we go Steve. LOL

Haven't decided if this is going to be the Enterprise or not.
As you can see I am lighting it and using TenaControls buzzard
Members Current Projects (WIP) / Re: In Between Build- BSG Viper MKI
« Last post by pakratt840 on Today at 06:31:23 pm »
After an enemy attack on the Viper, I regrouped and am back to the Viper build.

The 'attack' was one of the kittens my wife adopted.  It got on my work bench and knocked a bunch of stuff on the floor and then chewed all the wires off the Arduino board to the thruster lights!  Needless to say I was fraken mad!

After dealing with that I ended up deciding to add sounds for the start up, thrusters, cruising speed, and laser cannons.  Since I will be adding an Adafruit sound board and an MK103 board it all won't fit in the Viper so I am going to move the electronics to a bigger base.  I ordered a couple of the Adafruit boards for the Viper build, the 1/32 Raider, and the blaster build.  I will order some more next month for the Galactica build and for my Trek builds.

The 1/32 Cylon Raider is HUGE.  With the wings on it is the same size as the saucer for the 350 refit.

The kitten is actually a Cylon. It's spine will glow when it eats ;D

And speaking of Cylons, you'll love building the Raider kit. I had a blast with mine.
General Discussion / Re: New Acquisitions
« Last post by pakratt840 on Today at 06:27:20 pm »
Hi, Everyone.

I was went to the Kit Collectors Expo in Garden Grove, CA (https://kitcollectorsshow.wixsite.com/kits) this past Sunday (11/19/17).

There was this one vendor who was selling car kits almost exclusively, but on top of one of his stacks I found this little gem...

2011 Pegasus Hobbies 1:18 My Favorite Martian Uncle Martin and Spaceship (kit number 9012)

This kit has a low parts count of 20 pieces which includes working doors, a clear interior instrument panel that can be lit up, and a detailed vinyl figure of Uncle Martin.  Consultation with James Hulsey, the original series art director and designer of the spacecraft, was part of Pegasus' research into this project.  The spaceship measures about 7 inches in length.

I was able to snag this one for $5.00 U.S.D. which is about one-fifth the usual retail price.  Pretty good!


I've seen a couple of build ups before on this kit. It's a pretty nice kit based on what I saw. Uncle Martin must not have been claustrophobic at all. Imagine traveling from Mars to Earth crammed into that tiny little craft stuck in a semi-reclined position.
It's all good Steve! I did a 24-hr. burn in on the Bussards, and as expected, Ralph's boards came through with flying colors-pun intended ;D I figured there was no reason to wait and glued the nacelle halves together. Then I realized I don't remember doing a burn in on the LED strips. Oh well. I'll do it this weekend and if one fails, I'll just seal it all up and go without lighting the chiller grilles.
Thanks again, everyone. I was able to make another strobe circuit last night rather quickly. It's cleaner and I fit it onto a smaller board now that I have the experience. I tested it and it works! Very happy.
Sry, I do not have any photos yet, as the kit is on its way in transit, having ordered it only the other day off eBay. :) I am eager to start, so I wanted to create this thread anyway.

Having recently seen some reviews of Bandai's recent release of their 'perfect grade' Millennium Falcon model in 1:72 scale, and then seeing the price, I was unable to convince myself that I would want to buy it, so.. I started buying stuff for this Polar Lights Enterprise Refit kit instead. :D

Being a proficient scale kit modeler, and an aspiring airbrush user, I am glad to finally get to soon have a look at this kit, which I have wanted to buy for so long now.


* Adding aftermarket photo etch (Paragrafix 111).
* Adding aftermarket photo etch and stuff (GreenStrawberry's Arboretum)
* Making use of bit of styrene when useful.
* Designing my own model stand, to be rigged for lighting, with a few buttons.
* Lighting the model, with as many lights as I can.
* Having the light setup have longevity, so the LED's don't die on me after some time.
* Making use of water based paint for the special red, green, blue & gold coloring.
* Making my own paint masks (should be easy). Using Tamiya masking tape, probably.
* Making use of "Trekmodeler's paint guide"
* Correcting various errors with the kit design/molding
* The model will have to stand on display in the open in my living room, effectively collecting dust over time, as I don't have any plans for a cabinet for a model of this size.
* Ending up having a nice, clean, crisp result.
* Maybe 3D printing parts, if I can do it better. Perhaps the outside of the torpedo bay might be a nice simple project for 3D printing. (I have previously 3D printed some 50 cannon carriages for a 1:200 scale frigate to add some detailing that way.)
* Maybe keeping the hangar door closed. Unsure.
* I will probably be using Vallejo acrylic paints, and Vallejo white putty, in addition to whatever water based paint I get for the four iridescent colors (red, green, blue & gold).

Obviously, experimenting and testing with the coloring will be required, to get to have an idea how the painting work will end up looking. Wouldn't want to experiment with the finished model. :)

Some initial questions (feel free to try answer them):

Q1:The Paragrafix 111 photo etch fret, has impulse grills for two different clear parts. The manual show the clear part that comes with the kit, but also some "DLM" clear part (after market part?). I can see that the photo etch grills are differently sized, but which one has the correct proportions?

Q2: Is painting the insides of the saucer black adequate for blocking light through the plastic from installed LED's, or should I instead use metallic paint, or metal foil instead of black paint?

Q3: Can there be too many LED's inside a kit for a 9 or 12V lighting setup? Either drawing too much power, or creating too much light?

Q4: Would perhaps the provided decals in the box be of inadequate quality? Plastic kits sometimes have inferior decals, and buying aftermarket decals adds to the cost.

Q5: Are there any known "walkaround" photo galleries for the studio model? I expected to find at least one on the internet, but ended up short, finding none. I am curious about the detailing (e.g outside of the torpedo bay)
What's most likely the case is that Boyd never set up this forum site's SMF software to support UTF-8.  That's why characters such as the "right single" quotation mark, "left double" and "right double" quotation marks, and foreign characters such as the yen symbol and euro symbol are not supported and cause a cut-off when used.

The regular ASCII quotation mark and apostrophe are supported on this site, though.

If Boyd would like to support UTF-8 for this site, he can use this guide: https://wiki.simplemachines.org/smf/UTF-8_Readme#Why_would_I_need_UTF-8.3F.
So having recently ordered the Polar Lights Enterprise Refit model in 1:350 scale off eBay from a store, I ended up wondering what paint to use with my airbrush, and I am stuck with wondering if there is a distinct difference between the following 'Polytranspar' products.

https://www.mckenziesp.com/4-Ounce-C3465.aspx (Iridescent color, water based)

https://www.mckenziesp.com/4-Ounce-C3467.aspx (Pearl Essence color, water based)

Then, there is the question of the specific colors, which there are a few of, making me wonder what would work best for the Enterprise Refit build, which afaik makes use of: red, green, blue & gold, on top of some basic white'ish color. I don't trust the graphics provided on the webpages, neither for the brightness, or the hue.

Edit: Hm, as I look through this paint guide I bought this evening, I see that they list the Polytranspar's  "shimmering iridescent" range of paint, so I guess that might the one choice for this project.
Modelers Questions Board / Re: Character Limit on posts when using iPad?
« Last post by Spencer on Today at 03:06:05 pm »
I noticed it too when I tried posting something a couple weeks ago. I tried to use the degrees symbol on my macbook and it kept cutting off at that point.

I think if you try to use a character with the wrong encoding it does this. i.e. something other than UTF-8 or whatever the forum uses.

I don't own an iPad, but maybe something is up with a character encoding setting on either end?? Not sure ...
Modelers Questions Board / Re: Character Limit on posts when using iPad?
« Last post by Tiburon on Today at 12:51:02 pm »
Lol... may have figured it out... an apostify cuts off the post for some reason... so avoid apostrophes??? Ha ha
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