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Members Current Projects (WIP) / Re: Yet another Reliant build...
« Last post by whb64 on Today at 09:41:19 am »
I'll preface this by saying my Reliant is languishing unfinished in the boxes. But I bought the blue chiller grill inserts from Don's Light & Magic for just the inboard side, though he does have both sets. On mine there was only room for one strip of standard size LED tape inside mounted to the inside wall of the outboard chiller grill. I'm sure both can be lit but it's awful tight in there and hotspots are a definite issue. Whatever you decide, it's your model and you should do it your way. I'm sure it will look great.
Hots spots are why Boyd ended up painting the inside of the DLM flux chiller grills white, so to me that kind of negated the reason for getting them.  I'm getting older and the eyes aren't as good as they were (recently diagnosed with diabetes which has changed/affected my vbision some) and I also look at something and size it up to work vs gain.  The original kit plastic is thin enough and the LEDs are bright enough that light comes through without light blocking... a LOT of light!  I found that some light sanding on the inside to thin the area even more is easier than cutting, shaping, puttying, sanding... rinse and repeat and hope it looks as professional... right now that's out of my skill set.  At least until I get several builds under my belt and get used to modeling again.

A few seams here and there aren't that big of a deal, even one gaping hole would be manageable, but every time there is a cut and need for puttying is just another area that can potentially look bad, again at least in my case and knowing what I can do at this point in time. I saw someone go a different route and he cut the groves out and let the light shine through the spaces.  That's also an interesting approach.

So it is my understanding that the main reason why the outboard sides of the nacelles weren't lit is simply due to lighting limitations at the time, is that true?  It would make more sense if both sides were lit, but to keep things somewhat accurate to the movie look of these ships I too will only light the inside grills.

Once I get this kit done and after I do my 350 scales (which will include an NX-01 Refit and a 350 Reliant) I really want to do a custom Miranda class 'war ship'- all decked out with extra saucer edge photon launchers, additional sensors and phaser cannons  and more aggressive paint scheme.  I'll probably light inboard and outboard sides of the nacelles on that one.  If the back lit effect doesn't work for this build then I'll get the DLM inserts.  IF I can get my puttying and sanding technique perfected, I may even go for a saucer swap with the spare 1701 saucer I have laying around.  That won't be for a while though seeing that I already have years worth of kits laying around here, plus the Playmates accurrizing project I want to do, and all the other things in life that seem to get in the way of having fun :)
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Yay, I managed the whole week, and mostly before bed time as well. ;D

Painting Gamorrean guards skin, boots and pants times two.

Part.41
https://youtu.be/3iMIqEozOEA

And remember, Comets are welcome :P
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Members Model Gallery / Re: 1/537 D7 Revell AG
« Last post by Mr Atoz on Today at 09:15:55 am »
Nice clean work all 'round! Well done. 8)
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Members Current Projects (WIP) / Re: Yet another Reliant build...
« Last post by whb64 on Today at 09:06:13 am »
I have the spacers and they suck.  They don't go all the way around the saucer, they stick out of the side and aren't even, and they block the edge windows.  In short it was way more work than  it was worth, at least in my opinion...  too much work for 1/16th of an inch difference.  Besides, it just gives me a reason to build another one later :)
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Switch to a liquid brush-on glue. I use the Plastuct Plastiweld stuff most of the time, with the occasional foray into Tamiya Thin. Clamp the parts together (actual clamps, or tape if you can't get a good grip with the clamp), brush the glue along the seam, and capillary action sucks it into the joint. Give it 10-15 minutes for the solvents to evaporate before you unclamp it. I don't even bother with the Testors red tube glue anymore.

Hi Lynn, I bought this stuff a while back https://www.squadron.com/Squadron-Products-Plastic-Weld-SQ9070-p/sq9070.htm  is it pretty much the same thing as the Plastruct stuff?  I went with the Testors Red tube because Boyd swears by it in his videos, so I figured I would go with that, but I might not be applying it right which maybe is leading to some of these seam problems.  Do you put any of the Plastruct inside the model at all, like inside of the aligning pins before you apply it along the seam?  When i apply the Plastruct, or maybe the Squadron along the seam, should i wipe off the excess, or just leave it and let it suck into the joint?  Thanks for the info.
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Members Current Projects (WIP) / Re: Yet another Reliant build...
« Last post by MSgtUSAFRet on Today at 08:25:44 am »
You can buy spacers for this kit from Federation Models to correct the thickness of the Hull to the correct thickness.
I used them on my first Reliant build.

Spacers?

Hull thickness?

Explanation, Captain!
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Members Current Projects (WIP) / Re: Yet another Reliant build...
« Last post by AussieTrekkie on Today at 01:30:57 am »
You can buy spacers for this kit from Federation Models to correct the thickness of the Hull to the correct thickness.
I used them on my first Reliant build.
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Members Current Projects (WIP) / Re: Fantastic Voyage 1:32 Proteus
« Last post by Mr Atoz on May 25, 2017, 11:39:50 pm »
Your work in inspiring, Adam, much like your Eagle build! Clean, efficient and beautifully done!

If your figures are going to be hand painted and if they are going to be anything like your Eagle pilots, they will be up to your usual outstanding standards!

About the window frames - what do you mean about additional light blocking being airbrushed on? Can you show where you're thinking there might be leaks and have to airbrush; cause I'm not seeing it. (My mind's eye might need glasses anyway!)

Keep going!

Steve

Thank you Steve!  :) The figures are going to be painted as subtly as possible.I noticed that some guys make the shading a bit too dark. I've watched the film on DVD a couple more times.I noticed how stark white the overalls and wet suits were in most of the scenes.One test photo of the very same figures appeared to be the same style as wood carved old west caricatures!

In my most recent post,There is a description about adding more light blocking to mainly the outside window frames.The inside part of the frames were masked so that the large main window could be glued in and adhere well.The inner frame to cover the bare parts of the clear part will be painted the same way.Some modelers may skip doing this but the bright light from the dome ring or anywhere else may show up.I don't have appropriate software to illustrate this but,a verbose description is my best tool in the bag for now!  ;D :P
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Members Current Projects (WIP) / Re: Fantastic Voyage 1:32 Proteus
« Last post by Mr Atoz on May 25, 2017, 11:13:25 pm »
With continuing favorable weather,we proceeded with painting the first base colors.The previously mixed light gray was sprayed over the myriad small parts and larger areas.The custom mix was a bit too thin so,many coats were necessary.We'll wait until the paint is fully cured and a light coat of flat varnish will be applied .This will help to seal the layers before masking.

The overall colors are a little darker than planned for but it seems that the contrasts will be discernible.The gray green looks to be the right shade we were looking for.This color is for the floors and counter tops.

The outside window frames were light blocked with flat black and then over-coated with the light gray.There are no prior photos of the black undercoat but the gray is almost the same as the underlying primer.The inner window frames may be done in a similar manner.





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Members Current Projects (WIP) / Re: Yet another Reliant build...
« Last post by whb64 on May 25, 2017, 11:03:47 pm »
Last two pictures for tonight



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