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21
Test assembly.

I'm using an 16mm diameter aluminium tube down the centre of the ship for rigidity and support. Need to shorten it a little, sticks out of the shuttle bay at the moment! And that is a 1m steel ruler next to it :D

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Just joined? Introduce yourself here / Re: Hello
« Last post by Tankton on June 22, 2018, 01:37:38 pm »
I will have an opening in my schedule around August. Message me for details and pricing.
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Modelers Questions Board / Re: Paint booth
« Last post by Tankton on June 22, 2018, 01:35:30 pm »
For a booth that size you are going to need some rather large fans
That is 6 feet across 5 feet high and 5 feet deep. That is huge.
The one I'm building for my new shop is only 3 feet wide by 2 feet deep and 2 feet high.
Plenty big enough to paint the 350's in. I will be using a blower motor from a home furnace.
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Modelers Questions Board / Re: Paint booth
« Last post by Decoman on June 22, 2018, 01:00:34 pm »
Uuh, do you mean a "spray booth" or a room to paint in? I am not sure what you mean when you write "paint booth".

I built my own spray booth, however it is only barely adequate. Has an opening of about 45 x 33 cm, with some depth to it, maybe 50 cm deep, unsure.

1) The fan(s) has to be effective. If the fans aren't powerful enough, your spray might go back in your face. You can test this by lighting an insence stick wave it around and see if the smoke is pulled into the fan.
2) Your spray booth has to have venting, out of your room.
3) You must have some kind of filter mesh, in front of the fan, else the excess paint will start building up on the fan blades. They will do this regardless, but presumably, with a filter, the cake'ing takes a lot longer.
4) Don't electrocute yourself when working with electronics. Also, don't have others near the apparatus electrocute themselves. Isolate wires properly, and don't short circuit stuff obviously.
5) I used a powerful computer fan and some other stuff, but I honestly don't know how to build a big spray booth. Buying a pre-built one might be a good idea I think, if the performance specs are good.
6) In my experience, the total costs might add up to more than you think when building your own spray booth.

Edit: If you meant building your own spray booth, then I think the size of your "paint boot" is so large it seems kind of odd to me, but ofc I am no expert on this subject matter.
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Modeler's Links / Re: 537 refit 3D parts
« Last post by Tshark on June 22, 2018, 08:43:21 am »
After doing some extensive internet searching I went back to Don's Light and Magic for my 1/537 Enterprise refit parts.  He has a large selection and had no problem customizing my order by casting the tinted parts in clear only.  I have ordered from him before and found him reputable.  My only suggestion is order parts from him months before you need them.  It takes him awhile, but the parts are worth it.

http://www.dlmparts.com/amtrefitreliantparts1537scale.html

Hope this helps
26
When i talk about considering how to print a part for best results, this is what i mean.

This is the barrel for the guns on the side of the "head", the part is about 24mm long, or just under an inch if you're metrically challenged.


Theoretically a 3d printer can print any shape, but detail under an object doesnt really work, and curves under something tend not to come out very round. Plus considering how the layers go down can affect the finish of the part.

So printing it in the orientation of the pic above would result in the bottom half of the barrel not being properly round, and very rough because its effectively upside down. So my first thought was simply split it in half and print it like a gun barrel in every other model kit. But because of its size, the layers look very big, and it'd need a lot of post-processing to clean up and make look smooth and round. The flat front part also looks quite rough so i didnt like that result.

Next test was to print the rear hinge/drum part seperately, then the barrel face down (with some support inside), and put a matching curve to fit the drum part at the top. This kind of works, but the inner part of the curve isnt smooth, nor sharp at the tips, and would again need a lot of sanding and filing to get to fit. So again i didt like that result.

Lastly though, i split it so the barrel and half rear drum gets printed vertically, and the other half of the drum seperately. This gives a smooth surface to the end of the barrel, minimal cleanup to the tube part, and because of the smooth print bed, the 2 parts go together smoothly and the seam just looks like a print line. You can also see the same done for the smaller guns along the spine of the ship, which about 17mm long (dont know what that is for americans, 17/25 of an inch?)



Printer is now churning out all 20 guns :)
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I have a couple of parts left to do on the "chin", and need to redo the barrels of the guns, but once done i'll make the designs available for those wanting to print one of their own.
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Members Current Projects (WIP) / Re: Star Trek VI Refit Enterprise Build
« Last post by AussieTrekkie on June 21, 2018, 07:43:22 pm »
30
Members Current Projects (WIP) / Re: Star Trek VI Refit Enterprise Build
« Last post by AussieTrekkie on June 21, 2018, 07:43:01 pm »
Scott,


I also had those fit issues with the secondary hull. I followed the suggestion by Boyd to wedge something in between the two side walls to basically shove them into place while the glue dries. Worked pretty well. I only have experience with the reissue kit (actually I'm still in process of my build), so while I can't compare to the other releases, there are indeed several fit issues that I have run into.


Loving your videos so far! Keep it up!
Neil

I have built every release of the kit and I have not had these fit issues with any other release. I think it is really poor on Polar Lights/Round 2 for not making sure that everything is fine with the kit before they re-released it.
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