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21
HAha, I didn't even see the baby omega in the picture, took me a second for my brain to get past the awesomeness to see the littler awesomeness!
22
I looked at the best way to break the model down into sub assemblies, and as part of that grading criteria, the amount of work required to join the two sub assemblies was near the top, along with painting the area.  There are a few other reasons, but looking at the pylon to secondary hull and pylon to nacelle, the nacelle joint was WAAAYYYYY worse and will/did require much more work to get everything to line up and puttied/finished out.  The pylon to secondary hull is actually in pretty good shape.  This strategy however drove the need to build the alignment jogs for the models.  Not a lot of people want to go to that effort to try and maximize their success at getting a great result on a joint.  I had the added benefit of getting to hang out with the Dad. 

One other issue is I think the secondary hull is going to be the most difficult part of this build.  Everything that goes into it and the need to cut large chunks of it out I wanted as little stuff as possible interfering with this difficult part.  I have the wire bundles done for the nacelles, and hopefully this might be a little easier, who knows!  I am planning on making 3 different cuts on the secondary hull that will require them to be reattached.  I am cutting off the butt of the model, and 2 different cut outs on the bottom of the secondary hull.  I can't do these cuts though until I get the base mounting mounted in there, and I am going to do that step at the same time on both models, so some more work is required on the Reliant before I make these cuts. 

I wish I had a detailed plan for the sensors bads.  I will be doing some more PE work this week, and I might have cracked that problem though.  If so, then I might have a solution for the sensor bands, which would be to do all of them via PE. 

I need to do a PE part for the O club, and I thinking of designing the O club itself in sketch up to get printed at ultra fine detail.  I know I want to do real glass on the back part of the area on the model.  I could type for a while, but will stop.  :)

Great question!

Cheers,
James
23
Members Current Projects (WIP) / Re: Vulcan Shuttle Surak
« Last post by TD1701 on August 13, 2018, 03:10:07 pm »
I've shelved this project for over a year and now I am finally ready to put the finishing touches on it. Since I last posted I've stripped the warp sled down to the plastic and repainted everything on it including the RCS thrusters. I cut out the little black rectangles from the decals and put them over the painted areas. After reading James Small's build up article for Round 2 I bought Microscale liquid decal film which did wonders for these decals. Made them less fragile and a little easier to handle. It's pretty much done with the exception of three decals that did not survive, and I am hoping to have them very soon. Here are a few pictures of where I am at now, I hope you like them.

Have a good day!

Tom







24
BTW - you're welcome T-Shark. Are you posting here on Scifi? Did I miss it? If so, do you have a link?

MSgt

My posts here on Scifi have been in the Arduino section regarding my method of bussard lighting (http://scifimodelaction.com/sfmaforum/index.php?topic=7363.0).  I am fully lighting my TOS Enterprise along with detail parts from DLM, JT-graphics, and Paragraphix photo etch.  I have reached the point of primer coats for the sub-assemblies.  After reading the threads you have posted I think I will assemble all the main parts prior to final paint colors.
25
psylow,

As for the glue, its a kinda "whatever works" situation - unless you are dealing with ABS materials, then you either need ABS glue (recommend Tamiya) or cyanoacrylate (CA or superglue). Used these on my NSEA Protector build AAAAALOOOOOTTT!

For my TOS E 1/650 build, I used Tamiya extra thin cement (has a green lid/cap/thingy). This super thin cement allows you to use capillary action to cement tight seams; i.e. the nacelle seams and the primary hull seams. It "melts" the styrene and creates a durable bond between the pieces, but the pieces MUST be in contact for this glue to work best.
For areas where you would need more of a fill (open seams) and strength, I would use either Tamiya cement (has an orange cap; much thicker than the extra thin) or Testor's Red tube glue. Both of these also melt the stryene to create a better bond.

If you are needing strength for areas such as nacelle pylon supports, you may want to use reinforcing brass tubes running the interior of the pylon to prevent the droop.

If you have not made it through my tome of my first TOS E build, after I glued the pylons in place, I also used Millput, a two-part epoxy putty, shaped to fill around the pylon to secondary hull contact point to lend strength to the assembly.

CA is excellent for "tacking" a piece in place, but I would recommend using the Tamiya or the Testors for the permanant bond as a follow-up.

My "go-to" for fill, strength, and bonding is monomer and acrylic. I used to work in a dental lab and am very comfortable working with it and am familiar with it's properties. I use it alot to addd bulk and strength to the model. Search "Great White Whale Restoration" as I wrote alot about using it in a 1974 AMT TOS E restoration. Others use CA and baking soda (I think) to accomplish the same thing.

Hope this helps.

Lemme know if you have anything else.

Steve

BTW - you're welcome T-Shark. Are you posting here on Scifi? Did I miss it? If so, do you have a link?

MSgt
26
psylow, not to say you can't ask questions, we here love questions, but there are several threads that may provide you with info for step by step.

This thread is my own. I am not claiming to be the best, or the only, but it may give you some ideas and pit falls to avoid.
Steve's


This thread is the reason I joined Scifimodelaction -
Crowe-t

No offense to any other builder, but this is probably the best thread ever on accurizing the 650 kit! Crowe-t didn't light it or anything, but everything else is spot on; and the results, IMHO, speak for themselves.

You can use the search function and type in "1/650" in case you hadn't already figured that out. Many threads or examples of the finished models should pop up!

Keep going! As this one was my first in decades and got me going again in the hobby, I have a special love for the kit and any thread building it!

Steady as she goes, Mr. Sulu!

Steve

Thanks for these links.  I too did extensive searching on this forum and the internet in general, but did not stumble across these threads.  Both builds are beautiful and I hope mine comes out half as good.
27
No problem.

I would like to know what glue you recommend. 

I also think I'm going to use perfect plastic putty for my attempt at seam work.
28
I understand how annoying it can be when new people post without searching but it appears I missed it.

psylow, I didn't mean to imply I , or anyone else, was annoyed. Quite the opposite, as a matter of fact. I love to answer questions and try to help others avoid problems and issues; because I find them so often. I very much appreciate having a step-by-step thread to follow as an example and thought you might as well as a "complete Newbie" :) (Sometimes, I feel like I am not too much removed from being a newbie after seeing all the masters on this site!)

If you only knew how annoying I am about asking technique questions; often times stating "Type slow so I can understand" or "speak to me like I'm a kid"!

So no offense meant - we are all learners here, me moreso than others.

Ask away and know that you are more than welcome and the only stupid question is the one un-asked!

Steady as she goes!

Steve
29
Thanks for the response.  I did quite a few searches and looked through several threads but was unable to find anything on this kit which I thought was odd.  Perhaps I was not searching for the proper keywords.  I understand how annoying it can be when new people post without searching but it appears I missed it.

psylow, not to say you can't ask questions, we here love questions, but there are several threads that may provide you with info for step by step.

This thread is my own. I am not claiming to be the best, or the only, but it may give you some ideas and pit falls to avoid.
Steve's


This thread is the reason I joined Scifimodelaction -
Crowe-t

No offense to any other builder, but this is probably the best thread ever on accurizing the 650 kit! Crowe-t didn't light it or anything, but everything else is spot on; and the results, IMHO, speak for themselves.

You can use the search function and type in "1/650" in case you hadn't already figured that out. Many threads or examples of the finished models should pop up!

Keep going! As this one was my first in decades and got me going again in the hobby, I have a special love for the kit and any thread building it!

Steady as she goes, Mr. Sulu!

Steve
30
psylow, not to say you can't ask questions, we here love questions, but there are several threads that may provide you with info for step by step.

This thread is my own. I am not claiming to be the best, or the only, but it may give you some ideas and pit falls to avoid.
Steve's


This thread is the reason I joined Scifimodelaction -
Crowe-t

No offense to any other builder, but this is probably the best thread ever on accurizing the 650 kit! Crowe-t didn't light it or anything, but everything else is spot on; and the results, IMHO, speak for themselves.

You can use the search function and type in "1/650" in case you hadn't already figured that out. Many threads or examples of the finished models should pop up!

Keep going! As this one was my first in decades and got me going again in the hobby, I have a special love for the kit and any thread building it!

Steady as she goes, Mr. Sulu!

Steve

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