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Members Current Projects (WIP) / Re: 1/1000 D7 Romulan Capitol Ship (Painting ...)
« Last post by Spencer on November 18, 2017, 12:22:11 pm »
Hello again everyone!

Another update.

Besides places where the green metal is supposed to be, painting is now DONE!

I masked off the back of the nacelles and sprayed Interior Blue/Green and then hand painted the end details the
darker shade of the same color.

You can also see where I painted Testors Chrome Silver Enamel on the upper chiller grills. Turned out nice. Let's hope
green colored Future over it looks even nicer. Those pieces will be my testbed, if it doesn't pan out, I'll strip them and paint all
the metallic areas just chrome silver.

I also painted the ribbed detail on the neck the darker color. Those were masked then painted by hand.

The lip underneath the bridge dome had to be painted twice. First some white then orange. Masking would have been a
pain so I just freehanded it. The nice thing about a gloss coat underneath is you can rub off wiggles in the paint line with a
wet toothpick. Not perfect but good enough since it will be a little tough to see anyway.

By mid-week I should be able to put some Future over everything.

I'll be so happy ...

Will be a big relief to have a protective coat. Getting to the point of diminishing returns here.

Hopefully next weekend will be the decals!

By grabthar's hammer - what a lovely ship.

Great clean build with awesome attention to detail!


Fatalcheese (Brian),

Thanks for the encouragement and I appreciate your kind review!

I used a Krylon rattle can flat white. The glossy (semi-gloss) presented a chemical reaction to nail acrylic I used to create the CM so I opted to paint the whole thing in flat white. I added several coats of Future to bring it back up to glossy.

As I have said before, my exposure to the military their love of high glossy aircraft display models I dont use a dull coat afterwards.

For the pearlized white, I used Createx Airbrush Colors. I like it for the results mainly and also because I can dump it into my airbrush without adding anything and spray it on. Createx does recommend a higher p.s.i. than one normally uses, but it worked quite well for me.

As for the grey, it could be due to a couple of things. Since the model was an ABS model, my first build using the stuff, I used a grey ABS primer before I used the flat white. So it may influence the white a bit. Another poster suggested that I mix a bit of blue in with the white to try and mimic the color of the ship as first seen in beauty shot while in the Docking Port. I was disinclined to do so as the ship picks up the environmental colors in the film but is basically white throughout.

The second factor could be that there is a setting on my phone that tones down the LEDs. As you may know, when trying to take a pic of an LED lighted ship, the LEDs are washed out and details are lost. I can dim this setting on my phone so you can see the color and detail of the lighted part. It could add a grey filter to the pic and could explain the perceived grey tinge to the base color.
That or I need to invest in a new bottle of Future!
For the remainder of the colors I used Model Masters paints for the greys. I can get the exact color numbers if you want, just let me know.

Hey! As you maybe can tell I love to talk about my builds so even if you missed it, I dont mind!

Lemme know if you have any other questions!

Thanks for looking!

Dang the Resonance Cannons and Full Speed Ahead!

Members Current Projects (WIP) / Re: My 5-Year Mission-TOS 1/350 Enterprise.
« Last post by trekriffic on November 17, 2017, 12:33:36 pm »
I had thought of doing what Trekriffic (Steve) had done on his build - make the white dome open to display the bridge but still be white when closed. Unfortunately, in Photobucket's money grab, the thread he had on his build no longer has pictures to show his work.


Hey Steve. You can find the build pics on Flickr! Here's a link to the album there:


Bridge pics:


I'd still throw out there making one master and then resin copies could make this a lot less painful.  Maybe...
That must be one high of a bar, because I think that looks fantastic, and I can only hope my build turns out that well!  Nice job, Steve!

Question - is your base coat still flat white? I was reading through and saw you used flat white and pearlescent white.  Was that still the case, or did I miss something? The reason I ask is, it seems to be a slight hint of grey. I'm not sure if it's maybe the Aztecs that are creating that illusion, or maybe just the photo lighting.  Either way, I like it, and just curious.  Apologies if I missed it - what brand/type of paint did you use?

Members Current Projects (WIP) / Re: In Between Build- BSG Viper MKI
« Last post by whb64 on November 17, 2017, 08:07:50 am »
After an enemy attack on the Viper, I regrouped and am back to the Viper build.

The 'attack' was one of the kittens my wife adopted.  It got on my work bench and knocked a bunch of stuff on the floor and then chewed all the wires off the Arduino board to the thruster lights!  Needless to say I was fraken mad!

After dealing with that I ended up deciding to add sounds for the start up, thrusters, cruising speed, and laser cannons.  Since I will be adding an Adafruit sound board and an MK103 board it all won't fit in the Viper so I am going to move the electronics to a bigger base.  I ordered a couple of the Adafruit boards for the Viper build, the 1/32 Raider, and the blaster build.  I will order some more next month for the Galactica build and for my Trek builds.

The 1/32 Cylon Raider is HUGE.  With the wings on it is the same size as the saucer for the 350 refit.
Just joined? Introduce yourself here / Re: Hey y'all
« Last post by gal8150 on November 17, 2017, 07:36:40 am »
Welcome Keith!  So sorry to hear of your loss. You've joined yourself a great community of builders here.   You'd be hard pressed to find a more supportive group of fans and sci fi model hobbyists than here.  Hope to see some of your work in the future! 

All my best,

Members Model Gallery / Re: Zvezda Star Destroyer
« Last post by madmonk on November 17, 2017, 02:52:18 am »
Good luck with the auction Iain, deserves to raise a shed load for the god cause.
Appreciate everyone's suggestions on the LEDs. I've been a little more cautious about my soldering and how long I'm applying heat. Using helping hands was a great suggestion, thanks @whb64.  No bulbs lost since.

Well, it's been a while - have to travel for work quite a bit, and lately it's been constant commutes to NYC (I live in Seattle), so progress has been pretty slow. I've been debating whether to throw some canopy glue and sandpaper in my overnight bag, and a few pieces in my luggage to work on during down time. I don't know whether that confirms having dedication or having issues. 

For dealing removing the raised phaser inaccuracy, I thought taping around it and sanding it flush (using the tape to let me know when I'm almost flush) would work. It worked about as well as that fool-proof idea to win at Roulette, I once had.

Aside from not being flush, I ended up somehow sanding grooves in the surface. Suffice to say, it looked horrible. 

I ended up sanding the phasers completely off, and filling the gaps. I ended up doing what I was orignally hoping to avoid, which is rescribing lines.

I'm not thrilled about the results, but after applying paint, aztecs, and decals, (and whatever I use for new turrets) I'm hoping this won't stand out like it does now.

This was a frustrating part to install. Easy to bend, and it just was never right afterwards. 
Also, it seems the holes in the model part are too large for the paragrafix part, there is a slight gap. Kicking around re-doing this, but it was a time-suck, and just need to set aside for now.

I attached the washers to form my new saucer nav light fixtures that I had earlier mutilated, and using canopy glue to form the "bulb". This actually looked great for scale. I need to re-do the glue "bulb" as I'm having to re-prime and paint, but should look quite nice.

My bulb failures had me contemplating a dual-bulb system - two bulbs being equidistant between the upper and lower saucer light fixtures, so I could activate a "back-up" bulb in the event one failed. However, with the bulb placed evenly between the top and bottom saucers - there was barely any light getting to the canopy glue "bulb".  It was only when placing the LED right up underneath the fixture, where the light looked an acceptable level. 

I debated to experiment with brighter LEDs, but came to the conclusion there wasn't really the space for two LEDs to be positioned in a way where either LED would result in the same light level in the "bulb". So for now, I'm proceeding with one-bulb per fixture, and will hope that a final stress test of bulbs will be sufficient before sealing.

While I'm using an adhesion promoter, I'm not entirely sure paint is going to stick to the metal washers I used long-term.  Debating metal primer, but ugh! This is less than one square inch of surface I need to prime!

Progress on the saucer - installed my RCS bulbs and some of my LED tape.  I saw someone recommended aluminum tape for light blocking, and decided to give it a try.
I don't know that I'm totally convinced it's really any easier than just painting, considering you can't get everywhere with tape, and still have to paint regardless.

But I guess it's looks cooler!


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