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Author Topic: "A Night Out On the Galaxy." - Pegasus Alpha Centauri U.F.O.'s (Diorama)  (Read 8445 times)

Offline The Model Dude

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Update #1

A bit of spring cleaning...

Hello again true believers, thank you for stopping back in on the build thread!  I wanted to take a moment to say that I have really been enjoying the updates that I have seen so far.  All of you are really doing outstanding work, and there is a lot of inspiration that I am getting through your threads.  In short, thank you for sharing with us new guys!  Below is a small update of the work I have done to this point.

  • The build started with a good cleaning of the parts.  I know that many builders whose threads and videos that I have seen state that this step is unnecessary and is a waste of time.  They build model after model with no issues whatsoever.  I have also read (and watched) those who insist that this first step is a must for building and painting preparation.  Working on the side of caution, I elected to scrub the parts using warm water and some Dawn dish soap (if it's good enough for oil covered otters, it's good enough for our alien friends and their ships).  A rinse afterwards and the parts were left to air dry on some paper towels.
  • The next step was to trim the parts off of the parts trees.  This was a straight forward process for the most part, using sprue cutters and trimming far enough away from the part as to prevent gouging when cutting.  The exception to this was the clear parts.  The clear sprue is made from a harder, but more brittle, type of plastic.  Thankfully I started trimming with the light-port pieces that are inserted on the inside of the saucers.  Even though I trimmed away from the part, the cutting did cause small fracturing at the connection points (see photo below).  Learning from this, I gave extra space when trimming the canopies off of the clear sprue and had no problems at all.
  • After this, I removed the remaining material left behind on the parts, using the sprue cutter, an exact-o knife, as well as a hobby file.
  • I then moved on to addressing the surface indentations on the outside surfaces of the saucer (as seen in the out of box review).  These blemishes were very shallow, so I used different grades of fingernail filing pads that I obtained from a local beauty supply shop for cheap (starting with 180 grit; then 220, 320, 400, 600, 4000 and finally 12000).  Working mainly on the areas containing the blemishes, and slowly working my way out, I was able to make the indentations blend into the surrounding surface without causing more surface damage.
  • When the exterior surface work was finished, my attention turned to the injector pin marks that were located on the cock pit flooring located on the bottom halves of the saucer floors.  Using an exact-o #10 curved blade (it was the smallest curved blade that I had at the time), I placed the blade into the shallows of the injector pin marks.  I than began to lightly scrape back and forth, making sure that the hardest point of contact was the edges of the marks themselves.  This process removed the hard edge of the marks and began to blend them with the surrounding flooring.  By working the blade in a manner that scraped along a larger surface area, I was able to remove the deep markings without digging larger divots.  In order to get a feel for how to actually do this, I practiced on injector pin marks located on the models interior that will be invisible once the saucers are glued together.

Continued below in the next post...
That model really tied the room together.

Offline The Model Dude

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  • After all of this surface prep was finished in the cockpit, the next thing that I did was concentrate on filling holes located in the cockpit flooring.  There are three holes that match up with the landing arms/legs that can be mounted on the bottom of the saucers.  While one of the saucers in the diorama will be landed on the base and will use these arms/legs, the other saucer will be in a flying position and I have decided not to use them.  Therefore, the holes serve no purpose and need to be filled.  I experimented with two types of filler:  First I used the Tamiya Putty White, filling the holes and then sanding a bit after it dried; I followed up with a thin coating of Vallejo Plastic putty and another round of sanding.  Since the holes were small, there was no noticeable shrinking (which both products are known for).  This process was repeated for two of the three holes in the flooring.  I left the third hole that will be located behind the chair open, to possibly use for running wires from the bottom of the craft.  If I do not use the hole, I will use the same process to fill it in later.
  • The final surface alterations at this stage involved a light sanding of the backside of the clear plastic window-ports that will be located on the bottom of the ship.  After sanding, I sprayed a light coating of Krylon Matte Finish on the area that I had sanded.  The purpose of this was to obtain a bit of cloudiness with the clear parts to help diffuse furture lighting.  NOTE:  Before spraying the Matte Finish on the parts, I tested for possible reactions by spraying the finish on a piece of clear sprue.
  • With all of this work done, I moved on to the tedious process of cutting small bits of tape and masking off certain edges of the pieces before painting my light block.  I used the blue masking tape for this.  The reasoning behind this process was to keep certain surfaces free of paint which would cause issues later as I attempt to glue parts together.
  • The only assembly up to this point has been gluing the two seats together.  Each comes in two pieces, and sanding and filling fork needed to be done in order to remove the seam that was produced by the process.  There were very tiny points after priming and light blocking that should be covered once final paint layers are applied.
  • The final step I have completed to this point is light blocking the interior surfaces of the model. Weather dictated the products and procedures used here.  Lacking the patience to wait for a warm day to spray the surfaces once prepped, I used white Vallejo primer that I was comfortable using indoors with my home made spray booth.  Once the primer cured for 24 hours, I then sprayed a coat of Vallejo Model Color Black.  Once this layer cured, I added a final layer of Vallejo Model Color White.  These three layers should do an excellent job of light blocking.


I did begin work on the two alien figures as well; unfortunately they are presenting issues of their own that I will cover in another update.  I thank you for taking the time to check in on my thread.  Below is a link to my video update:


Until next time, I wish you success, not only with model building... but with all of life!   :)[/list]
That model really tied the room together.

Offline r0bert

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good stuff there!

Offline The Model Dude

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Yeah, really informative review Dude.  I'll be picking up this kit for sure!
Maybe two!  Thanks for the thorough look see.   :)

Thank you, and if it was helpful, then mission accomplished and you're welcome!   :)

Cool model and I'm really looking forward to seeing your ideas for this one come to life.

Thanks Boyd, if I succeed in capturing a few of the typical alien abduction themes it should make for a good laugh; and it has been fun so far, and that is what matters for me!   ;D

good stuff there!

Thank you sir!   :)
That model really tied the room together.

Offline fumblethumbs

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Hey Model Dude...I thought you said you are new to modeling!  ;D
You're doing a textbook job of it thus far!! 

Another very enjoyable update!!  Keep up the great work my friend!  :)
Ooooooo!  I think I may buy that kit!
 
Jeff.

Offline 3rdplacetrekkie

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excellent detail on this build! are you sure you're a beginner? lol! keep it up dude!
"Accomplishments, awards, accolades, and achievements... but when it's all said and done, what will stand?  For I tell you that my while my physical life will end and memory of me may fade, what I live for will stand for all eternity. And that is what makes my life worth living."

Offline billski

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Very nice progress Dude, I enjoy the way you organise your log

Offline DizWhiz

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Looking good so far!
-Dave

Offline The Model Dude

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Hey Model Dude...I thought you said you are new to modeling!  ;D
You're doing a textbook job of it thus far!! 

Another very enjoyable update!!  Keep up the great work my friend!  :)

Hehe, I AM new; anything that is positive coming from this build is due to hours spent reading and watching everyone's builds and learning from all of you!  I am glad that the updates are enjoyable; I worry that my presentation is rather dry compared to some.   :-\

excellent detail on this build! are you sure you're a beginner? lol! keep it up dude!

Thank you!  I am trying man, but the detail on the thread here will probably begin to highlight my "happy accidents" (to borrow from Bob Ross) soon enough.  Keeping it in perspective though, I should have a nice log to go back to and see what I felt was right... as well as what I felt was left, lol!   ;)

Very nice progress Dude, I enjoy the way you organise your log

Thank you!  I am glad that you like the organization; it has taken a bit to adjust to posting stuff on the thread, but I figured if I didn't do it this way everyone would be asking, "What in the heck is this guy doing?"   ;D

Looking good so far!

Thank you!   :)
That model really tied the room together.

Offline wolf 359

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Very good work Model Dude! Great detail thread.

Offline TrekWorks

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Agreed, a very nicely done thread and very informative Dude. Looking forward to the next update :)
If It's a model kit, I like it already.

Offline Kevin G.

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Agreed, a very nicely done thread and very informative Dude. Looking forward to the next update :)

Agreed. im excited about the next update Les.... Hurry the hell up   8)

Kevin G.

Offline fumblethumbs

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Agreed, a very nicely done thread and very informative Dude. Looking forward to the next update :)

Agreed. im excited about the next update Les.... Hurry the hell up   8)

Kevin G.

DITTO!  Bump  ;D
Ooooooo!  I think I may buy that kit!
 
Jeff.

 




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