Welcome, %1$s. Please login or register. - Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
 

Author Topic: K't'inga 1/1000 scale by Ugh Models  (Read 2265 times)

Offline trekriffic

  • Lord Dark Spot
  • Captain
  • ****
  • Posts: 346
    • My Albums
K't'inga 1/1000 scale by Ugh Models
« on: April 06, 2017, 01:04:51 pm »
OK folks... time for my first Trek build in almost a frackin' year! Oh how I have missed it.
Anyway, I have always wanted a 1/1000 K't'inga in my collection so when I saw the announcement from Ugh Models about their K't'inga...well... I knew the time had come. So I fired off a quick email to Erin at Ugh inquiring as to whether they would accept a money order for payment and they said, "Well, PayPal is preferred but,if that's the only way, sure I guess."  So I replied "Say no more!" and payment was issued.  A short while late it arrived in my mailbox.  And here begins my build thread. Aren't you guys excited? I know I am...

The box.They spelled Ugh Models in Klingon... too cute by half... Klingons would probably hate that:

Box by trekriffic, on Flickr

Opening the box I found the instructions- one page front and back:

Clear and concise instructions for assembling the 13 resin parts included in the kit:

Instructions Front by trekriffic, on Flickr

Nice color guide for those wishing to paint the K't'inga as seen in Star Trek the Motion Picture:

Instructions Back by trekriffic, on Flickr

Care was taken to ensure the decals were not harmed by abrading with the other kit parts by wrapping them in wax paper:

Decal Pkg by trekriffic, on Flickr

Unwrapping the decals I noticed Ugh provided two choices for the bow photorp tube decal- a gold and a red option. Nice:

Decals by trekriffic, on Flickr

The bag'o'parts:

Parts Pkg by trekriffic, on Flickr

Command pod parts. Some very nice detailing here:

Command Pod Parts by trekriffic, on Flickr

Very nice detailing on the warp nacelles:

Nacelle Parts by trekriffic, on Flickr

Nice casting on the trefoil base. A hole for inserting a display rod will need to be drilled:

Stand-Neck-Hangar Deck by trekriffic, on Flickr

Beautiful casting on this part. No pinholes and very minor flash:

Engineering Hull by trekriffic, on Flickr

Parts fit is very good. I will still use brass pins to reinforce joint strength where flexing may occur:

13 Parts by trekriffic, on Flickr
Steve

Him: "Chinese voices in his head? That's a little weird."
Her: "But... you hear voices don't you?"
Him: "Not Chinese!"

Offline trekriffic

  • Lord Dark Spot
  • Captain
  • ****
  • Posts: 346
    • My Albums
Re: K't'inga 1/1000 scale by Ugh Models
« Reply #1 on: April 06, 2017, 01:06:20 pm »
Work continues...

Some Tamiya putty was used to fill small gaps between the side "radiator" pieces and the main housing:

Hangar Bay Housing by trekriffic, on Flickr

A small resin crumb had to be removed from the right side of the hangar bay doors and the area rebuilt with a small piece of sheet styrene:

Hangar Bay Rear by trekriffic, on Flickr

The bow had a small pour stub I removed requiring use of strip styrene to restore some of the raised plating:

Pour Stub Repairs by trekriffic, on Flickr

A hole was drilled in the backside of the command bulb where it joins the neck boom and a brass pin was inserted using CA:

Brass Pinning by trekriffic, on Flickr

A mating hole was drilled in the neck boom to mate with the brass pin in the command bulb for added strength:

Hole for Brass Pin by trekriffic, on Flickr

CA was used to glue the two parts together with the brass pin reinforcing the joint:

Assembled Boom and Bulb by trekriffic, on Flickr

The dome was glued to the top of the bridge tower using Plastic Surgery CA glue. Regular Gorilla Glue CA didn't seem to work as well but it may be because I used too much glue:

Assembled Bridge Tower by trekriffic, on Flickr

Really nice detailing on the front of the command deck:

Assembled Command Pod-Boom by trekriffic, on Flickr

Nacelle flash. Cleanup should be pretty quick using files and sanding sticks. Maybe a little putty here and there:

Nacelle Flash by trekriffic, on Flickr

Engineering hull ventral detail. The triangular frames near the front of the lower engineering hull are superbly detailed and cast. No pinholes and very little flash. Some tiny amounts of pink mold release residue here and there which was easily washed off:

Engineering Hull Ventral Detail by trekriffic, on Flickr

How nice is this recessed stern detailing? Just takes my breath away how nice this looks up close to the naked eye:

Stern Detailing by trekriffic, on Flickr
Steve

Him: "Chinese voices in his head? That's a little weird."
Her: "But... you hear voices don't you?"
Him: "Not Chinese!"

Offline trekriffic

  • Lord Dark Spot
  • Captain
  • ****
  • Posts: 346
    • My Albums
Re: K't'inga 1/1000 scale by Ugh Models
« Reply #2 on: April 06, 2017, 01:08:18 pm »
Worked some on the warp engines and the boom...

Perfect Plastic Putty is a water based filler that goes on best in these thin joints using a syringe. After a minute the putty is smoothed using a cotton swab so only a little sanding will be needed:

Puttying Gaps with a Syringe by trekriffic, on Flickr

The joints were lightly sanded. Thin styrene strips were glued to the fronts of the nacelles to cover up where I had sanded along the mold line and a small void had been filled:

Engines Attached by trekriffic, on Flickr

The warp nacelles are not straight up and down when viewed from the front or rear. They bend inward thus helping give the vessel it's badass predatory look:

Engine Angles by trekriffic, on Flickr

Noticed something when I looked at the boom in relation to the warp engines. The kit tab at the base of the boom and it's mating socket in the engineering hull fit together well but the boom has a pronounced droop downward:

Profile As Molded by trekriffic, on Flickr

What you want is for the boom to be in alignment with the warp nacelles as in this image:

ktinga_large_port by trekriffic, on Flickr

Removing the kit resin tab from the base of the boom allows you to align the boom with the warp nacelles. Fortunately the angle at the base of the neck is only slightly off so won't take much shimming to correct the angle. I will also be inserting a brass pin to strengthen and maintain alignment of the joint:

Profile Corrected by trekriffic, on Flickr

Last night I started puttying around the base of the neck using some of my precious Tamiya Epoxy Putty. I've had this one carton going on twenty years now but it's the best stuff for joint strength IMO. It's workable for a few hours and has just the right amount of stiffness to allow you to do some nice sculpting with it:

Tamiya Epoxy Putty by trekriffic, on Flickr

Putty application. A dental tool is great for packing in and smoothing:

Putty Application by trekriffic, on Flickr

Not bad. Just a little more smoothing after the putty dries. Maybe smear a thin layer of Perfect Plastic Putty over the top for the final smoothing and sanding.
As you can see, there was a pretty good sized gap but it kept growing due to the fact I superglued it, broke it off, superglued it again, broke it off, scraped off the superglue, and glued one more time before I was satisfied with the alignment. The neck had to be level with the engines and also not angle off ever so slightly to one side or the other. Man what a job!

Lower Boom Joint Puttied by trekriffic, on Flickr

Upper Boom Joint Puttied by trekriffic, on Flickr

The base of the neck with it's relatively large gaps due to having to realign the angle of the boom required insertion of three brass rods-one in the center and one on each side of the neck. The side rods were inserted into tunnels drilled diagonally thru the sides of the neck and into the engineering hull. The visible ends of the rods will be covered with styrene strips to hide them from view:

Brass Pin by trekriffic, on Flickr

The neck boom joint is super strong at this point. That baby's head will not loll from side to side like a newborn's ever.

OK. Some fun shots now...

Yeah. Now that's what I'm talking about! I loves me some K'T'Inga!

Profile Below by trekriffic, on Flickr

Bow On by trekriffic, on Flickr
« Last Edit: April 06, 2017, 01:09:58 pm by trekriffic »
Steve

Him: "Chinese voices in his head? That's a little weird."
Her: "But... you hear voices don't you?"
Him: "Not Chinese!"

Offline trekriffic

  • Lord Dark Spot
  • Captain
  • ****
  • Posts: 346
    • My Albums
Re: K't'inga 1/1000 scale by Ugh Models
« Reply #3 on: April 06, 2017, 01:11:29 pm »
Getting back to the matter at hand...

You know how sometimes you can't see the forest for the trees? Well, after looking at the last pic above, I realized the neck was tilted up and to the left! So I resolved to break the neck and reposition it. Finally I got it right!:

Revamped Neck by trekriffic, on Flickr

Veering off sideways as an aside, if you keep the syringe needle submerged in water you can use your Perfect Plastic Putty for weeks at a time without having to squeeze new putty out of the tube:

Perfect Plastic Putty Syringe in Water by trekriffic, on Flickr

Okay, back to boring stuff...

I used a length of strip styrene to cover and reinforce the joints between the nacelle struts/winglets and the secondary hull:

Strip Styrene by trekriffic, on Flickr

The outboard facing sides of the nacelle struts are featured prominently in STTMP and the kit was inaccurate as to the plating so I sanded/filed off the kit detailing:

Removal of Material by trekriffic, on Flickr

Studio model image.This is what the outboard sides of the nacelle struts should look like:

Studio Model Outboard Nacelle Strut Detail by trekriffic, on Flickr

A paper drawing was made matching the shape of the kit winglets to approximate what the raised hull plating shapes should look like based on the studio model images:

Paper template by trekriffic, on Flickr

Thin styrene sheet shapes were cut and trimmed before gluing to the resin nacelle struts:

New Nacelle Strut Plating by trekriffic, on Flickr

After priming the outboard sides of the nacelle struts and the plating looks great IIDSSM:

Nacelle Strut Outboard Plating Detail by trekriffic, on Flickr

The disruptor emitters on the neck needed to be moved further back than they were molded. A Tamiya photo-etch saw was used to saw them off:

Slicing and Dicing by trekriffic, on Flickr

Also, I removed the smooth electromagnetic impeller grill plates and square "hatches" from in front of the hangar bay housing and replaced them with .010 spaced v-grooved styrene sheet and correctly shaped "hatches":

Before:

Engineering Hull by trekriffic, on Flickr

After:

Secondary Hull Detail by trekriffic, on Flickr

Secondary Hull Mods by trekriffic, on Flickr

After puttying and priming I hit the front edges of the grooved sections with a file and the result was very acceptable.

Upper Seconary Hull Details by trekriffic, on Flickr

Jumping around...

The kit's hangar bay did not include the pieces I made in brass:

New Brass Bits by trekriffic, on Flickr

My mother-in-law referred to the photon torpedo tube as a "steering wheel". At that moment, I decided to rectify that:

Studio Model:

Ktinga Studio Model Detail 002 by trekriffic, on Flickr

The "steering wheel" was removed from the secondary hull central stern photorp tube:

Revamped Photon Torpedo Tube by trekriffic, on Flickr

A short length of square brass tubing was inserted into a hole drilled into the bottom of the secondary hull:

Mounting Point by trekriffic, on Flickr

Square brass rod is inserted into the square brass tube in the lower secondary hull:

Test Fit by trekriffic, on Flickr

The brass tube shown here slides into the brass tubing in the underside of the K't'inga:

Display Rod Tubing by trekriffic, on Flickr

The display rod is made from nested lengths of brass tubing and rod:

Display Rod by trekriffic, on Flickr

The K't'inga sits nice and level on the display base:

Nice and Level by trekriffic, on Flickr
Steve

Him: "Chinese voices in his head? That's a little weird."
Her: "But... you hear voices don't you?"
Him: "Not Chinese!"

Offline simi

  • Admiral
  • *****
  • Posts: 586
  • JUST enough knowledge to do some serious damage
Re: K't'inga 1/1000 scale by Ugh Models
« Reply #4 on: April 06, 2017, 05:31:04 pm »
Nice work!  One question on the perfect plastic - are you loading the syringe by inserting it into the perfect plastic and drawing it out (like taking blood) or are you removing the top part of the syringe and squeezing the putty into the other part, then replacing the the top part of the syringe.  Kinda a dumb question, but was just wondering.

Cheers!

Simi
As a software architect, I'm pretty darn good.  As someone with knowledge of building things in the real world, well, I'm a software architect.

Offline trekriffic

  • Lord Dark Spot
  • Captain
  • ****
  • Posts: 346
    • My Albums
Re: K't'inga 1/1000 scale by Ugh Models
« Reply #5 on: April 07, 2017, 11:02:01 am »
Nice work!  One question on the perfect plastic - are you loading the syringe by inserting it into the perfect plastic and drawing it out (like taking blood) or are you removing the top part of the syringe and squeezing the putty into the other part, then replacing the the top part of the syringe.  Kinda a dumb question, but was just wondering.

Cheers!

Simi


Hi Simi. You remove the plunger from the syringe and squeeze the PPP from the tube into the barrel of the syringe. Then reinsert the plunger. The PPP tube has a wide mouth which fits perfectly over the top of the syringe barrel. The needle is blunt (it's meant for injecting resin not piercing skin) so it wouldn't be able to poke thru the PPP tube very easily. Also you'd find your PP had dried out after a week or so if you did.
Steve

Him: "Chinese voices in his head? That's a little weird."
Her: "But... you hear voices don't you?"
Him: "Not Chinese!"

Offline simi

  • Admiral
  • *****
  • Posts: 586
  • JUST enough knowledge to do some serious damage
Re: K't'inga 1/1000 scale by Ugh Models
« Reply #6 on: April 07, 2017, 03:50:55 pm »
Nice work!  One question on the perfect plastic - are you loading the syringe by inserting it into the perfect plastic and drawing it out (like taking blood) or are you removing the top part of the syringe and squeezing the putty into the other part, then replacing the the top part of the syringe.  Kinda a dumb question, but was just wondering.

Cheers!

Simi


Hi Simi. You remove the plunger from the syringe and squeeze the PPP from the tube into the barrel of the syringe. Then reinsert the plunger. The PPP tube has a wide mouth which fits perfectly over the top of the syringe barrel. The needle is blunt (it's meant for injecting resin not piercing skin) so it wouldn't be able to poke thru the PPP tube very easily. Also you'd find your PP had dried out after a week or so if you did.

Awesome - thanks!
As a software architect, I'm pretty darn good.  As someone with knowledge of building things in the real world, well, I'm a software architect.

Online starsiegeplayer

  • Admiral
  • *****
  • Posts: 883
  • In brightest day, in darkest night....
Re: K't'inga 1/1000 scale by Ugh Models
« Reply #7 on: April 07, 2017, 09:17:11 pm »
I like this so far.

Offline scottminium

  • Admiral
  • *****
  • Posts: 846
  • "Not chess, Mr. Spock. Poker!"
Re: K't'inga 1/1000 scale by Ugh Models
« Reply #8 on: April 08, 2017, 08:33:03 am »
Diggin' this build.  Never heard of Ugh models, which is too bad given the level of detail in this kit!
"If there's a bright center to the universe, you're on the planet that it's farthest from."

Offline trekriffic

  • Lord Dark Spot
  • Captain
  • ****
  • Posts: 346
    • My Albums
Re: K't'inga 1/1000 scale by Ugh Models
« Reply #9 on: April 11, 2017, 06:21:49 pm »
Been working a LOT on mods to the rear of the nacelles. Here's what I'm shooting for on the rear outboard side of each:

Klingon Ktinga Studio Model Detail by trekriffic, on Flickr

Some more work to be done but we're getting there. I added some small pieces of photo-etch screen:

Rear Nacelle Rework by trekriffic, on Flickr
Steve

Him: "Chinese voices in his head? That's a little weird."
Her: "But... you hear voices don't you?"
Him: "Not Chinese!"

Offline trekriffic

  • Lord Dark Spot
  • Captain
  • ****
  • Posts: 346
    • My Albums
Re: K't'inga 1/1000 scale by Ugh Models
« Reply #10 on: April 11, 2017, 06:23:59 pm »
Diggin' this build.  Never heard of Ugh models, which is too bad given the level of detail in this kit!

They have a lot of nice kits and not just Trek kits either. Also bases.

Here's a link to their main store page:

https://www.fpkclub.com/ugh-models/?page_id=204

And a link to the K't'inga on their website:

https://www.fpkclub.com/ugh-models/?page_id=355&model_number=UGH053
Steve

Him: "Chinese voices in his head? That's a little weird."
Her: "But... you hear voices don't you?"
Him: "Not Chinese!"

Offline Firebiro

  • Artist / Designer / Modeller
  • Admiral
  • *****
  • Posts: 743
  • Lock S-Foils in attack position!
Re: K't'inga 1/1000 scale by Ugh Models
« Reply #11 on: April 12, 2017, 05:21:33 am »
Great build up Steve, I'm really enjoying it and the level of detail you are adding to the little kit is astounding!
The Matrix formed in a day, the life forms grew later, at a substantially accelerated rate!

Morgan

Offline MSgtUSAFRet

  • Admiral
  • *****
  • Posts: 1518
  • All I ask is a tall ship & a star to steer her by.
Re: K't'inga 1/1000 scale by Ugh Models
« Reply #12 on: April 12, 2017, 07:34:00 am »
This is looking fabulous, Steve! Outstanding work with Master Jedi level attention to detail! And it is cool looking, too! :)

Keep going!

Steve

"As long as there is injustice, whenever a Targathian baby cries out, wherever a distress signal sounds among the stars, we'll be there. This fine ship, this fine crew. Never give up... and never surrender."

Offline scottminium

  • Admiral
  • *****
  • Posts: 846
  • "Not chess, Mr. Spock. Poker!"
Re: K't'inga 1/1000 scale by Ugh Models
« Reply #13 on: April 13, 2017, 07:14:39 pm »
Lord Dark Spot, thanks for the url!

It took me a while to realize the size of the kit you are working with.  The detail, and your work, is even more impressive!

Klingon starships are some of my favorites, and I really like how this one is going.
"If there's a bright center to the universe, you're on the planet that it's farthest from."

Offline trekriffic

  • Lord Dark Spot
  • Captain
  • ****
  • Posts: 346
    • My Albums
Re: K't'inga 1/1000 scale by Ugh Models
« Reply #14 on: April 17, 2017, 06:14:59 pm »
One of the members over on HT posted this picture of the outboard aft starboard nacelle which shows two sets of "boxes" (one above and one below).

Studio Model Outboard Aft Starboard Nacelle Detail by trekriffic, on Flickr

Unfortunately, the Imgur photo I was working off in my last post was missing the upper set of boxes. This meant I had to redo some of what I'd already done. Soooo, after much griping internally, I just went ahead and dremeled everything out so I had a clean palet to work with:

Cleaning Out the Kit Detailing by trekriffic, on Flickr

I made new boxes using some styrene U-channel and round rod:

Making the Outboard Aft Nacelle Boxes by trekriffic, on Flickr

Then I got busy with photo etch screen, brass fret material, music wire, and some styrene sheet and girder material. This is the aft outboard side of the starboard nacelle :

Outbaord Starboard Aft Nacelle Mods Finished by trekriffic, on Flickr

I brushed some Tamiya primer on. Man this camera does my work no favors. Still a little rough but she'll look better once I'm done:

Starboard Aft Nacelle Mods Brush Primed by trekriffic, on Flickr

The port nacelle got the same treatment:

Outboard Aft Port Nacelle Mods In Progress by trekriffic, on Flickr

Port side done:

Outboard Aft Port Nacelle Modifications Finshed by trekriffic, on Flickr

Next up... inboard detailing...
Steve

Him: "Chinese voices in his head? That's a little weird."
Her: "But... you hear voices don't you?"
Him: "Not Chinese!"

 




Enterprise © Bloc