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Author Topic: Yet another Reliant build...  (Read 2080 times)

Offline whb64

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Re: Yet another Reliant build...
« Reply #15 on: May 03, 2017, 07:24:17 pm »
All my parts should be here in the next few days and I can get back to working on the Reliant.

Here is the tally:
Model (had this for years, at least 20 I think)- the sticker had a price of $19.99 so That's what I'll go with
Miranda Class shuttle bay and saucer height adjustment from Federation Models- $30 plus shipping- $41.25
Arduino board and screw expansion board (with shipping) from eBay- $11.85
LEDs (various, approx 15 total) .22cents each- $3.33
LED Light tape warm white from lightingever.com ($7.50 for 16.4ft roll, probably only use a foot- $50cents
LED Light tape blue from lightingever.com ($7.50 for 16.4ft roll, probably only use a foot- $50cents
Threaded lamp post from Lowes- $1.00
SPST - 12v (Volt) LED Lit Rocker Switch / Toggle from Lighthouseleds.com (x3 @ $2.99ea)- $9.00
Aztek Dummy Miranda Class Aztek mask from culttvmanshop.com- $32.95
JTG-004 Reliant 1:537 decals (JTGraphics) from culttvmanshop.com- $17.95
Para-159 Reliant Detail 1:537 Photoetch (Paragrafix)    from culttvmanshop.com- $24.95
Shipping from culttvmanshop.com for the previous 3 items- $4.11
Paint, acrylic paint from Walmart- $10.00

I didn't include shipping for some items like the LEDs because I ordered a bunch of stuff for multiple kits.  I am also not counting the compressor and airbrush, dremel drill press, and primer because those will be used for other builds.  I also didn't include resistors or the power supply because I have a ton of DC power supplies laying around and I bought a bunch of resistors for various builds.

Total so far:  $177.38
I still need to get a base I like, that will probably be another $30-$40

So the total for this build will be around $200

Offline MSgtUSAFRet

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Re: Yet another Reliant build...
« Reply #16 on: May 04, 2017, 07:44:52 am »


Just breathe! It will be alright! Just! Breathe!

Yeah, if I stop to count the cost, not the labor, the cost of materials is rather staggering. But, if you build up your stock of supplies, each successive project becomes more economical. It's gets better.

I have ships in my stash that I can't build yet because I don't have all the parts, accessories and aftermarket parts I want to make it look, IMHO, Awesome! So I have to buy a little at a time and here and there. All at once hurts too much!

Steady as she goes!

Steve
"As long as there is injustice, whenever a Targathian baby cries out, wherever a distress signal sounds among the stars, we'll be there. This fine ship, this fine crew. Never give up... and never surrender."

Offline whb64

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Re: Yet another Reliant build...
« Reply #17 on: May 04, 2017, 10:30:33 am »
Lol yeah that sounds like a lot but I am still calm. :)

I just listed everything for the benefit of others so they could know how much and where to get things if they want to go the same route.

I just got the shuttle bay kit.  This is my first time with an after market resin kit add on.  I am not disappointed nor am I impressed.  It will need a lot of fit and finish as expected.  Baffled is more like it.  The one thing I don't understand is for a kit that is supposed to showcase the shuttle bay, the shuttle bay doors are sealed shut!  What baffles me is it doesn't look like it is part of the casting either.  It looks like two panels were glued on the inside of the rear section.  I could be wrong and they are part of the casting but they look like separate pieces that were put on to close the shuttle bay holes.  I will just take a sanding drum and sand it thin from the inside until I can cut it open with an Exacto knife and then fine sand the openings.

The saucer spacers don't seem to be set up for lighting.  I haven't test fitted anything yet, but it looks like they will block all the windows on the edge of the saucer.  I may end up cutting the vertical part off each piece.  Detail looks good on the pieces that will be seen.  My guess it that it will take a good two or three days to sand and shape everything so it fits.  Maybe not, but I am just telling myself to go slow and do it right.

I'll take some pictures when I get back from an appointment today.


Offline whb64

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Hull thickness and the resin spacers
« Reply #18 on: May 04, 2017, 11:26:13 am »
Initial observations and thoughts on the shuttle bay add on...

As suspected, the saucer hull spacers will block almost all the window ports.  This seems counter productive for a kit that is surely intended to go in a lit model.  I really don't see a need for there to be a vertical 'wall' for these spacers.  Maybe for support, but a better design would have put vertical supports in the spaces where there are no windows.  It's easy enough fix- just cut out the areas where there are windows.

Okay now for the infamous issue of the hull thickness-  I broke out my micrometer and measured the thickness of the 537 NCC-1701 saucer at the edge and it is ,45" thick at the edge, as compared to the Reliant kit which is .38" thick at the edge.  Is .07" really a concern for everyone?  I understand the new reissued kit is the same thickness as the 1701, but keep in mind this is a different class ship so would it necessarily be the same? (Rhetorical question ;) )

The spacers are going to add a LOT of extra work for very little gain, at least in my opinion.  I think it will be a lot easier and look better to just sand the shuttle bay height to fit the existing saucer hull than it will be to add spacers for just .07" difference to 'make things more accurate'.  Accurate is a matter of question and opinion I think.  I'd have to watch the movie again, and find some studio references as well but I don't think it is going to be that big of an improvement.  If it ends up being an issue where people looking at the completed kit say 'yeah it's nice, but man that saucer just isn't the correct thickness and that ruins everything for me", then maybe it does matter, but  I simply don't see people saying that.   Besides, as I stated, these are different classes of ships so why would they be the same?  From a model manufacturer's perspective it does make sense for them to be the same because they can use the same mold for the main saucer for both kits (and I guess if this was a real ship the same could be said for construction), but again the work using the spacers just seems like more work than gain.

Even if I cut the window areas out there is going to be A LOT of seams to fill and sand.  To me that adds a lot of areas that could potentially have imperfections that would take away from the quality of the build.  Worse case is if it bothers me that much then I'll get the newer kit that has a thicker saucer.

As far as accuracy-  I've seen pictures of plenty of builds that the builder took some liberties with the paint colors and detail colors, so is saucer hull thickness really a concern to everyone?  I think not.  Someone mentioned lighting and said the thinner hull makes it difficult to use LED tape strips.  I haven't gotten to that point yet so maybe that will be an issue.

The shuttle bay itself has pros and cons as far as lighting.  It will provide some nice light blocking in the rear and for the lower crystal/dome, but it also blocks access to the rear side windows.  Again it's an easy enough fix (I say that now, I haven't actually done the work yet) by hollowing out the outer side wall pieces.

I know it may sound like I am complaining, I'm not.  Rather I am just trying to give some honest reviews so anyone else wanting to do this has an idea of what to expect and how to deal with the minor (and some major) problems they are going to face. 

Offline whb64

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Shuttle bay scale
« Reply #19 on: May 04, 2017, 11:32:49 am »
As far as the shuttle bay-

Again maybe I am wrong here, but I think the shuttle bay is bigger than it would actually be.  It fills the entire rear deck area which clearly has engineering components there, at least based on the outside of the saucer hull.  Is this a problem?  No and I am not complaining, just making an observation.  I noticed the same thing with the 1701-D shuttle bay kit, it takes up almost all of the rear saucer, and I doubt it was that big.

Anyway, it will look nice and the over size depth will give it perspective, which is all that matters. 

Offline incubus35

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Re: Yet another Reliant build...
« Reply #20 on: May 05, 2017, 03:17:00 am »
Hi again,

I totally get your frustration! I bought the saucer walls spacers kit (not the shuttlebay) and gave up on using them in the end, due to not being able to think of a good way to get them to work - I had actually glued and puttied them in before giving up. I just couldn't get the ones on the back section to work properly!  The version I got did include the replacement back section of the ship, but again, it would have been a lot of work to remove sections to light it how i wanted to - as the shuttlebays were a solid section. it's amazing the difference it makes on the newer issue to have that extra bit of height! Are you aware that round2 are planning to reissue the newer kit soon? along with the aztec decals. sorry if i'm repeating things you already know, you seem to have really done your research!

A few ideas I had were - use the spacers, but drill through them, and thread fiber optics to each of the windows, or threading some side lighting fiber optic in the gap between the spacers and the outer hull. As I say, I've gone for getting rid of the spacers and just using the second option out of frustration. I'll try and post some pics on my thread soon to see if it might be an option for you too. The way I've seen a lot of people use the LED tape was to build a wall nearer to the centre of the saucer and put the LED tape pointing outwards towards the rim.

I'd second some of the other posts about some of the extras you've bought being a real money saver on later kits!

good luck - it's a great kit once you get past the unavoidable planning/purchasing stage!


Offline incubus35

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Re: Yet another Reliant build...
« Reply #21 on: May 05, 2017, 05:29:36 am »
The image doesn't show it very well, but the light does carry around the fiber optic cable quite well. I got 2 meters of it for under $10 on eBay.



Offline whb64

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Re: Yet another Reliant build...
« Reply #22 on: May 05, 2017, 06:30:05 am »
Hi again,

I totally get your frustration! I bought the saucer walls spacers kit (not the shuttlebay) and gave up on using them in the end, due to not being able to think of a good way to get them to work - I had actually glued and puttied them in before giving up. I just couldn't get the ones on the back section to work properly!  The version I got did include the replacement back section of the ship, but again, it would have been a lot of work to remove sections to light it how i wanted to - as the shuttlebays were a solid section. it's amazing the difference it makes on the newer issue to have that extra bit of height! Are you aware that round2 are planning to reissue the newer kit soon? along with the aztec decals. sorry if i'm repeating things you already know, you seem to have really done your research!

A few ideas I had were - use the spacers, but drill through them, and thread fiber optics to each of the windows, or threading some side lighting fiber optic in the gap between the spacers and the outer hull. As I say, I've gone for getting rid of the spacers and just using the second option out of frustration. I'll try and post some pics on my thread soon to see if it might be an option for you too. The way I've seen a lot of people use the LED tape was to build a wall nearer to the centre of the saucer and put the LED tape pointing outwards towards the rim.

I'd second some of the other posts about some of the extras you've bought being a real money saver on later kits!

good luck - it's a great kit once you get past the unavoidable planning/purchasing stage!
Honestly I am not frustrated, just trying to document an honest build and what is encountered.  I know these builds are a lot of work and

Right now I have two options-
1 Try to use the spacers as well as cut out all the openings in the rear section.  It is doable but will be a lot of work.

2 use the kit as is and if I still want a shuttle bay (which I do) then I will have to build a new one from a few parts in the kit and some plastic sheeting.

I think I am going to end up going with option 2.  It will also be a lot of work but I'll avoid all the puttying and sanding, which I know the more putty work done the higher the odds of it looking bad... or making the build extremely time consuming. 

The spacers sound like a good idea but for mine, they don't even go all the way around the saucer.  There are some really big gaps between the spacers and the rear doesn't fit quite right either, meaning more gaps.  Every gap is going to be a light leak issue as well as a potential fit and finish issue.

I have to say I am disappointed in the add on kit.  Once I cleaned up all the excess flashing I do like the detail on the rear section  better than the stock piece, but cutting out the shuttle bays, the impulse grills, and drilling holes for the rear phasers is going to be a lot of tricky work, that once again are all things that can go wrong and make the build look bad.  Even if I was able to cut the impulse grills out there is a small section that is part of the thick resin that I can't see a way to get to.  So that part wouldn't be lit and wouldn't look right.

On a positive note, the resin parts are easy to sand and shape, perhaps a bit too soft.  It doesn't take much to knock them down and shape them.  I'd recommend gluing them in place first, then shaping the pieces and then doing the putty.  Trying to do it in one step would be a disaster.

Thanks for the input and yes please provide a link, I'd love to see your build. :)
« Last Edit: May 05, 2017, 06:45:10 am by whb64 »

Offline MSgtUSAFRet

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Re: Yet another Reliant build...
« Reply #23 on: May 05, 2017, 01:35:04 pm »
Guys, while I haven't built this ship, I am enjoying the exchange of ideas between you two; especially since you both are working on a Reliant!

Keep it up!

Steve
"As long as there is injustice, whenever a Targathian baby cries out, wherever a distress signal sounds among the stars, we'll be there. This fine ship, this fine crew. Never give up... and never surrender."

Offline whb64

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Re: Yet another Reliant build...
« Reply #24 on: May 05, 2017, 02:00:13 pm »
Steve you may like what I am going to do thien :)

I'm going to scratch build a shuttle bay!

I will document the whole process and trust me, I am by no means a master model builder but I am sure anyone that wants to do this will be able to.  When I moderated a Home Theater forum I did a lot of topics and one thing I learned is people always want lots of information on how something was done... so hopefully my threads here can also be of use to others. :)

That said, when it comes to modeling I am by no means an expert and am relearning a lot of stuff as well as learning new things too!

I love this forum and the people here :)

Offline incubus35

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Re: Yet another Reliant build...
« Reply #25 on: May 05, 2017, 02:03:39 pm »
Wow, my hat is off to you sir!

I'm really looking forward to seeing this!

Offline whb64

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Re: Yet another Reliant build...
« Reply #26 on: May 05, 2017, 02:11:31 pm »
Wow, my hat is off to you sir!

I'm really looking forward to seeing this!
No hats off needed...  It looks pretty basic, in fact maybe easier than using the resin kit.  I will be using some ideas from the resin kit but since I am not going to be using the saucer spacers the resin kit will be too high and it would be too much work to try to modify the resin kit.  Besides, I don't think it can be modified, the shuttlebay deck is too high/thick to be used with the stock rear section of the model.  The floor sticks up almost to the middle of the shuttle bay doors, so I have to build one that is lower profile.

Offline whb64

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Re: Yet another Reliant build...
« Reply #27 on: May 12, 2017, 11:34:05 am »
The image doesn't show it very well, but the light does carry around the fiber optic cable quite well. I got 2 meters of it for under $10 on eBay.
This looks much easier than the LED tape.  I'll probably use this for my next Reliant build- yes I will be doing another one after learning from this build

Offline whb64

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Re: Yet another Reliant build...
« Reply #28 on: May 12, 2017, 11:35:25 am »
Question-

Are the flux chillers/grills only lit on the inboard side of the nacelles?  That's how I see everyone doing it but why wouldn't they also be lit on the outboard side?

Offline Gadgetron_3000

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Re: Yet another Reliant build...
« Reply #29 on: May 12, 2017, 11:48:19 am »
Question-

Are the flux chillers/grills only lit on the inboard side of the nacelles?  That's how I see everyone doing it but why wouldn't they also be lit on the outboard side?

During the Kirk-era movies, only the inboard side of the nacelles were lit.  However with the Reliant (Star Trek II) and the Saratoga (Star Trek IV), their warp engines never engaged on-screen so even the inboard chillers were never lit.

In the TNG-era - particularly during the later seasons of DS9 when the show began using CG models instead of physical ones - the outboard side was lit as well for added effect.

:)
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