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Author Topic: R-Type R9-A Arrowhead by PLUM  (Read 1030 times)

Offline greg

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Re: R-Type R9-A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #15 on: June 26, 2017, 08:43:16 am »
I've gotten back to the R-Type model. Here's video 7.

I recently did a Revell Battlestar Galactica Cylon Raider, and that was easy to light because the ship is essentially a flying saucer clamshell. This R-Type ship is proving to be more work because I had to strategize where to feed the wires through to make it work.

Offline MSgtUSAFRet

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Re: R-Type R9-A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #16 on: June 26, 2017, 10:44:46 am »
Loved the Cylon Raider, Greg!

Thanks for the dry brush demo and on how to use a Tamiya paint stand! Excellent Job!

Thanks!

Steve
"As long as there is injustice, whenever a Targathian baby cries out, wherever a distress signal sounds among the stars, we'll be there. This fine ship, this fine crew. Never give up... and never surrender."

Offline greg

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Re: R-Type R9-A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #17 on: June 29, 2017, 07:59:47 pm »
Thanks, Steve.

Video 8 is now up. I am almost done.

Offline greg

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Re: R-Type R9-A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #18 on: July 05, 2017, 01:40:54 am »
Here's video 9.
I'll have a pictoral write-up of my progress soon on my Tumblr page.

I now have the ship wired up. Since uploading this recent video, I am applying generic aftermarket decals I've bought from Satellite and HiQ Parts since this model does not include any. I'm nearly complete!

Offline greg

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Re: R-Type R9-A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #19 on: July 06, 2017, 10:37:53 pm »
For those who prefer pictures, here is a photoset/writeup update on my Tumblr page. I'm nearly done! Since this update, I've begun applying decals on the ship. These are generic warning signs and such by a Japanese modeling supplies company called Satellite.

Offline greg

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Re: R-Type R9-A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #20 on: August 23, 2017, 10:52:19 pm »

Offline starsiegeplayer

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Re: R-Type R9-A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #21 on: August 24, 2017, 08:45:33 am »
Looking good!

Offline greg

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Re: R-Type R9-A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #22 on: October 19, 2017, 12:08:49 am »
I've done a clear coat to seal the decals, and have done some chalk weathering along with a little bit of enamel drybrushing. I have created a custom "R-Type Final" decal with white Fine Molds decal paper and attached it to the stand. Unfortunately, this paper is a bit thick. Since it was for laser printers, I figured it would be thinner than the decal paper made for inkjet printers I have used in the past.

All I need to do is wire the switches to the base and I'll be done. I did have some problem with my soldering iron and how solder would no longer stick to it. I've cleaned off much of the oxidation by rubbing it down with sandpaper, so I hope that could bring it back to normal again.

Offline MSgtUSAFRet

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Re: R-Type R9-A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #23 on: October 19, 2017, 07:18:50 am »
Greg, your build looks super cool and very clean! Very Well done!

I will have to remember to use tweezers when dealing with small parts like you do. I usually mess it up by trying to place them with my fat fingers! :)

One observation: This thing, particularly the cockpit, reminds me of the Starfighter from The Last Starfighter; as ship I'd like to build!

Keep going, Sir! This looks awesome!

Steve
"As long as there is injustice, whenever a Targathian baby cries out, wherever a distress signal sounds among the stars, we'll be there. This fine ship, this fine crew. Never give up... and never surrender."

Offline greg

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Re: R-Type R9-A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #24 on: October 19, 2017, 09:39:06 pm »
Yeah, I never noticed that before. The smooth, protruding cockpit does sorta resemble that of the Last Starfighter.

In the last video, people commented on how they could sense the tension of getting this kit fit together and having the wires into place. After having the iron refuse to let any solder stick to it, I really got frustrated and it burned me out. What I need to do is just solder the switches and batteries together and attach them to the stands and I'll be done. Maybe I should set that as my goal for this weekend.

Offline greg

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Re: R-Type R9-A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #25 on: October 30, 2017, 12:12:10 am »
This model is stressing me out. Last night I wired up a switch onto the base and tried out the power. The main ship has a 12v battery because it is small, and the force orb is powered by a CR2032 battery. Maybe I was going crazy with a lack of sleep, but it seemed that these got really dim very quickly, even when they were shut off. I put brand new batteries into each of these. My 9V battery didn't have that effect.

The force orb has 4 SMDs inside, with no resistor. When I had everything open and testing, they shone brightly with no problems before. Now it got really dim.

To make it worse, seating the force orb onto the stand doesn't allow the brass rods to connect well. My original plan was to have small brass rods so that I could replace the cap when it was off the stand. It doesn't fit well, so I gave up on that idea, but now one rod is too short and the orb doesn't want to sit well to allow a solid contact with the rods. I'd like to replace it with a longer one, but I'd have to probably pry the orb apart and I'm afraid of ruining it. As it is, it's not a good connection, so I might give it a shot and order replacement parts if I end up having to redo it all. At least it's not the part of the larger, complex ship model.

As for the ship, it seems to connect well enough, if I press down hard enough. It took a few tries. This ended up being a rather ambitious attempt with lighting by using metal contacts on both of the stands. I'm still new to this, so it's caused a lot of anxiety for me. I was hoping to have it completed yesterday evening, but I'm not satisfied with how it is.

Offline greg

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Re: R-Type R9-A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #26 on: October 30, 2017, 07:03:36 pm »
As I mentioned previously, when I place the orb on the stand, the connection is very finicky. Last night I said "to heck with it" and went ahead and slowly rocked the arm of the orb back and forth until it came undone. I used my hobby knife to cut away the epoxy glue and the magnet wires were eventually broken. I tested the ends and the LEDs still light up, so that's no problem.

I will have to show this visually in my next video, but the empty section of the stand arm in which I placed those brass rods is at an angle, and I had made the mistake of having the connector rods on the force orb's bottom arm going straight down. This is the problem.

So what I think I will do is even go as far as removing the + shaped snap locator peg completely and just have it sit on the stand with the rods inserted into the other rods, and make sure they fit deeply so as to prevent any further problems. This way, that locator peg won't be pushing up on the arm and preventing a proper contact, especially since it will be at a different angle than the brass rods.

I do not know if you guys can visualize what I'm trying to describe, but that's why I will go over this in my next video. I was hoping that it would be the final video in the series. I will switch to a 9V battery too, and place a resistor along the wire leading from the switch in the base underneath. I believe a 470 ohm resistor should do it. I'll have to test it out.

Offline MSgtUSAFRet

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Re: R-Type R9-A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #27 on: November 01, 2017, 07:44:55 am »
Hey, greg, as I've said before, this build is looking awesome!

But I do have a question about what you meant when you wrote:

I will switch to a 9V battery too, and place a resistor along the wire leading from the switch in the base underneath. I believe a 470 ohm resistor should do it. I'll have to test it out.

I normally put the resistors in the model with the lights, so why are you switching to a battery and adding a resistor? Just curious...

Thanks! Keep going!

Steve
"As long as there is injustice, whenever a Targathian baby cries out, wherever a distress signal sounds among the stars, we'll be there. This fine ship, this fine crew. Never give up... and never surrender."

Offline greg

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Re: R-Type R9-A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #28 on: November 01, 2017, 07:33:23 pm »
Hey Steve,
It's the force orb. The actual ship itself seems to make the contacts alright, but the force orb's contacts are finicky. I didn't want to make the model hard-wired to a stand and instead wanted to use the stand that the model comes with.

I appreciate your interest, and wouldn't expect you or anyone to remember this, so I'll recap. Inside the force orb there are four SMDs wired in parallel. There are four arm prongs along the edge of the force orb. There is a small hole in which the magnet wires are fed into the bottom arm prong, and then there are those brass pipes that form the female coupling. (Or in this day and age of authoritarian moonbat social justice, I should say that these are the brass pipes that choose to identify as female so as not to get sued by the ACLU.) There are corresponding pipes who identify as male in the actual stand, and society should be forced to accept them as male.

So these SMDs are 3V, and a CR2032 battery is 3V. I decided to skip a resistor and just have the power feed directly into the orb from the battery with no resistance. This past Sunday, after I had both the orb and the ship situated on their stands, I had switched them off to eat lunch and watch The Shining with my family since Halloween was just a few days away. When I came back and switched both on, for some reason they were both VERY dim and I couldn't figure out why. I could have sworn that I had put in a fresh CR2032 for the orb and a fresh 12V battery for the ship, but both were very disappointingly dim.

There is no way for the batteries to be drained when they are switched off, right? There should be only one way to wire a switch, right?

I am told that a 9V will provide more reliable energy. Badgrendels is a YouTuber friend of mine, who has given me a lot of information about lighting kits and has been a mentor walking me through this endeavor on the Scale Model Addict forum. He says that a 9V allows a lot of current to flow through it, while the 12V does not. So the 9V has a big fat pipe hooked up to it, and that 12V has a straw hooked up to it. Thus, the 9V will allow a lot of current to flow, lighting up a lot of LEDs, while the 12V will not, so it can only light up a few at a time.

Interesting. It's obvious that you are more advanced with this sort of thing and your Protector model is coming along fantastically. I am just a learner. But one thing is for sure: if I switch from using a flimsy CR2032 battery to a 9V, I am gonna burn out those SMDs as soon as I hook them up unless I get some resistance. The problem is that I've no place to put the resistor into the actual orb itself, so it is going to have to be placed underneath the stand where the wiring goes. I will connect it to the positive lead coming from the switch going up to the brass rod.

And one more thing is that I intend to switch and have the female pipes put into the stand and have the male connectors sticking out from the bottom of the orb's arm. I've inadvertently dinged up the paint job while fiddling with this orb, so I will dab on some silver enamel paint and call it weathering.

Last night I finished compiling the 11th video in this series. I will upload it this weekend so as to pace things out since I just uploaded another video last night.

Offline greg

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Re: R-Type R9-A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #29 on: November 03, 2017, 06:34:42 pm »
At the end of the video, you will see the problems I'm having with the brass rod connections.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_IliF3habHI

 




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