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Author Topic: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)  (Read 1171 times)

Offline scottminium

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Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
« Reply #30 on: July 16, 2017, 03:14:16 pm »
@Dan, I use Zona #33 micro saw blades.  I drill the windows, then 'punch' with an xacto, then slowly hollow out with the Zona.  Yeah, it can be a little painful and time consuming.

@Steve and Lynn, I'm going to go with the nacelles as is and work with it.  It'll be challenging enough without obligating myself to the new frontier of slicing off parts for molding.  However, I see now how some of these groups started...with a desire to make something just a tad easier for modelers.
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Offline pakratt840

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Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
« Reply #31 on: July 16, 2017, 05:55:34 pm »
Quote
@Dan, I use Zona #33 micro saw blades.  I drill the windows, then 'punch' with an xacto, then slowly hollow out with the Zona.  Yeah, it can be a little painful and time consuming.

Thanks Scott. I'll have to look into those.
Dan

Yoda & Luke discuss building the Refit
Luke: I'm not afraid!
Yoda: Oh...You will be...You...Will...Be!

Offline scottminium

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Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
« Reply #32 on: July 17, 2017, 08:23:53 pm »
Warning: geek EE alert.
Fun fact, turns out that I've been running my LEDs at way to high a current.  The white LEDs run at 3-3.6V, with a max current of 20mA.  So, I figure, if I cut the current in half, so much the better.  On a lark I decided to try more resistance, then more resistance, just to see what would happen.  It's kind of hard to see in this pic, but the three lights have different resistances (1k, 2k, 3k), resulting in current ranges of (low) 6mA, (med)  3.4mA, and (high) 2.3mA.  Meaning you can rather dramatically lower the current, get nearly the same light, and increase the life of your LEDs (and resistors).

I'm sure some (or most) of you already knew this, but don't be afraid to try much more resistance!
(BTW, from left to right, 2k, 3k, 1k, and up close the one on the right is the brightest)
« Last Edit: July 23, 2017, 04:20:09 am by scottminium »
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Online MSgtUSAFRet

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Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
« Reply #33 on: July 18, 2017, 07:25:48 am »
Warning: geek EE alert.
Fun fact, turns out that I've been running my LEDs at way to high a voltage.  The white LEDs are supposed to run at 3-3.6V, with a max current of 20mA.  So, I figure, if I cut the current in half, so much the better.  On a lark I decided to try more resistance, then more resistance, just to see what would happen.  It's kind of hard to see in this pic, but the three lights have different resistances (1k, 2k, 3k), resulting in current ranges of (low) 6mA, (med)  3.4mA, and (high) 2.3mA.  Meaning you can rather dramatically lower the current, get nearly the same light, and increase the life of your LEDs (and resistors).

I'm sure some (or most) of you already knew this, but don't be afraid to try much more resistance!
(BTW, from left to right, 2k, 3k, 1k, and up close the one on the right is the brightest)

Nope! Didn't know this!

So, just to make sure my pea brain understands this, for a white LED at 3-3.6V, with a max current of 20mA, I can use a 1-3K resistor, instead of the recommended 470 ohm resistor, and still achieve the same approximate lumens while dramatically increasing the life of my LED?

Suhweet!! Thank you, O Great One! I bow to your geekness!  ;D

Steve
« Last Edit: July 18, 2017, 07:30:24 am by MSgtUSAFRet »
"As long as there is injustice, whenever a Targathian baby cries out, wherever a distress signal sounds among the stars, we'll be there. This fine ship, this fine crew. Never give up... and never surrender."

Offline scottminium

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Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
« Reply #34 on: July 18, 2017, 08:26:41 pm »
@Steve, yes.  The LED will run at the same voltage, whatever that is, but you can drop the current substantially and get the same lumens.  Your resistors and LEDs will thank you!   Now I just need to get these all wired up.  Soon I hope, but I've got jury duty this week and it is really sapping my spare time.
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Offline scottminium

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Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
« Reply #35 on: July 22, 2017, 03:18:46 pm »
Getting closer to wiring things up.  At this moment a number of red, blue and white LEDs are 'burning in' to ensure they'll live. 

To power up the nacelles a tiny channel was drilled down through the 'strut' toward the outer portion.  A thin channel was then dug with a rotary tool to connect the hole near the nacelle to the engineering section.  As most of the attention will be from 'above' rather than on the sides, this will leave the upper/inner portion of the strut cleaner.  Holes were drilled sideways into the lower portion of the strut to get the wires inside.  A total of four wires will be run each side for redundancy (2+/2-).  Magnet wire will be used for the connections.

Three LEDs will light each nacelle, 1 red and 2 blue. 

The wires will be placed and puttied into place, then checked.  Next the lower nacelle half will be lowered into place, and the wire continuity checked again.  Finally, the LEDs will be soldered in place and checked before the nacelle halves are cemented together.
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Offline scottminium

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Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
« Reply #36 on: July 23, 2017, 06:04:47 pm »
These photos are all from the starboard engine assembly.  Two + and two - wires are run just in case.  After passing the wires up through the nacelle access cut, they are passed through the cut in the underhull section.  A small amount of putty is put into the trenches, then the wires are pressed into place.  With a little luck, after everything is smoothed all the wires will still work.
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Online MSgtUSAFRet

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Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
« Reply #37 on: July 24, 2017, 07:54:02 am »
Nicely done, Scott!

I guess, like most builders, I would have made the wire channels on the dorsal rather than the ventral. I see, after looking at your pics, there appears to be less detailed on the ventral and that side would allow a better sanding job! Good thinking, Sir!

BTW, I saw your PM. What did you figure out about the bussard collectors?

Keep going! You're doing some great work here!

Steve
"As long as there is injustice, whenever a Targathian baby cries out, wherever a distress signal sounds among the stars, we'll be there. This fine ship, this fine crew. Never give up... and never surrender."

Offline scottminium

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Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
« Reply #38 on: July 24, 2017, 07:24:10 pm »
@Steve, for the bussards I have decided on a combination of things, all designed to distract attention from the seams.  I will lay down some 'seams' from the opposite direction (up/down vs. left/right), and also create a few artificial 'divots' like those from the injection points at the tips of the collectors.  This way I hope to hide the seams and divots in plain sight, making them just part of the background.

Starboard nacelle wired up and tested SAT.  Unfortunately when testing port lighting assembly I touched the connections with no resistance...two LEDs DED.  Good thing I have more!  Now the starboard side is resting after a little gorilla glue application to keep everything in place. 

As for ventral/dorsal, I figured most of the viewing would be from above and the side, so the ventral was sacrificed.  Of course, the hope is between sanding and painting neither will have visible scars.

In this pic, the double strands of magnet wire are visible (two filaments for redundancy).  Also in view are 'blobs' of clear gorilla clue and the small piece of paper to help deflect the blue light away from the collectors.  (the tape will be removed once everything sets)

"If there's a bright center to the universe, you're on the planet that it's farthest from."

Online MSgtUSAFRet

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Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
« Reply #39 on: July 25, 2017, 07:41:48 am »
Nice game plan, Scott! Sounds like you have things well in hand!

Doesn't look like you have a lot of room in the Nacelles. Whew! I feel for you, Brah!

Keep going! Can't wait to see this thing lit up!

Steady as she goes!

Steve
"As long as there is injustice, whenever a Targathian baby cries out, wherever a distress signal sounds among the stars, we'll be there. This fine ship, this fine crew. Never give up... and never surrender."

Offline scottminium

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Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
« Reply #40 on: July 25, 2017, 07:44:55 pm »
The initial test of the starboard nacelle indicates a pretty good joint along the warp engines.  Still not sure about the nacelle and I managed to seal it up without applying an inner 'grid.'   :o 

Never fear, an external grid of sorts can be applied with black paint before covering over with white and red.  Overall a pretty good fit.

Oh, and I managed, again, to smoke two blue LEDs in testing.  Perhaps I can avoid that tomorrow...
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Offline pakratt840

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Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
« Reply #41 on: July 25, 2017, 09:22:31 pm »
Amazing work on this small kit, Scott. I've been working at a snail's pace on mine, and not even trying to light it, so kudos to your build just for that aspect alone. I found that the biggest fit issue with the nacelles was at the front of the chiller grills where they widen out behind the bussard collectors. Best I could do was minimize the seam so it kind of, sort of, almost blends into the grooves in the grill. I was able to eliminate the seam on the collectors after multiple putty, sand, rinse and repeat cycles. Why they had to put the sprue connections there and not on the sides where they could be cut flush easier I don't understand. Looking forward to seeing this lit up. Should be spectacular site. 
Dan

Yoda & Luke discuss building the Refit
Luke: I'm not afraid!
Yoda: Oh...You will be...You...Will...Be!

Offline whb64

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Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
« Reply #42 on: July 26, 2017, 11:35:13 am »
Warning: geek EE alert.
Fun fact, turns out that I've been running my LEDs at way to high a current.  The white LEDs run at 3-3.6V, with a max current of 20mA.  So, I figure, if I cut the current in half, so much the better.  On a lark I decided to try more resistance, then more resistance, just to see what would happen.  It's kind of hard to see in this pic, but the three lights have different resistances (1k, 2k, 3k), resulting in current ranges of (low) 6mA, (med)  3.4mA, and (high) 2.3mA.  Meaning you can rather dramatically lower the current, get nearly the same light, and increase the life of your LEDs (and resistors).

I'm sure some (or most) of you already knew this, but don't be afraid to try much more resistance!
(BTW, from left to right, 2k, 3k, 1k, and up close the one on the right is the brightest)
My buddy and I were playing around with resistors and different setups (one resistor per LED...  one resistor in series and LEDs in parallel...  as well as different values) and we also found that you can drop the current to almost nothing before the LEDs start getting dim. 

Offline scottminium

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Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
« Reply #43 on: July 27, 2017, 08:47:46 pm »
Well, third time's the charm.  Successfully soldered, placed, tested and sealed the port nacelle lights without smoking them!  Next will be sealing up the nacelles while placing lights in the saucer.  Question next is how, or if, to light the main impulse drive.  It is at the base of the saucer support (the neck) and not practical to light with it's own red LED.  <Buzz Lightyear voice> I have an idea....
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Offline scottminium

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Re: 1/2500 1701-D (Round 2 AMT)
« Reply #44 on: July 29, 2017, 03:26:00 pm »
Still work to be done on the nacelles, but it's time to begin work on other sections as well.  The deflector dish is now joined to the ujpper engineering section and everything has been masked in preparation for light blocking.  First will be a coat of flat black (rattle cans for all the light blocking) followed by gloss white. 

In a few places you will notice small strips of styrene.  After painting these will be unmasked and used to secure strip LED, one is in place on the saucer to give you an idea of how that will work.  The strip goes in and a tiny piece is placed astride to lock it in place.  Tomorrow should be soldering strip LEDs together.
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