Welcome, %1$s. Please login or register. - Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
 

Author Topic: It's Not a TMP Refit 1/350, it's a STII:WOK Refit 1/350!  (Read 621 times)

Offline Quarky

  • Commander
  • ***
  • Posts: 126
  • Jamie
Re: It's Not a TMP Refit 1/350, it's a STII:WOK Refit 1/350!
« Reply #15 on: October 03, 2017, 03:21:08 pm »
I'm surprised your LEDs are failing... What voltage are you running through them? If it's too high, that might be the answer to your issue.
"We're made of star stuff"

Carl Sagan


Jamie

Offline FatalCheese

  • Ensign
  • *
  • Posts: 10
Re: It's Not a TMP Refit 1/350, it's a STII:WOK Refit 1/350!
« Reply #16 on: October 06, 2017, 01:30:40 pm »
I'm surprised your LEDs are failing... What voltage are you running through them? If it's too high, that might be the answer to your issue.

I'm just testing them hooking up to a 9V battery - but the plan is to use an Arduino board to control the lights, using a 12V source.  So far I've lost 3 white 2mm bulbs, using the 470ohm resistors that HDAmodelworx included.  They work at first, and then I may grab one, hook up the alligator clips to the wires - magnet wire approx. 12" long - and then there's no joy. I remove the resistor and bulb and plug them in breadboard - the resistor still works, the bulb does not.  And I pitch both, none of the dead bulbs are using a reused resistor.

I'm not Johnny-Soldering Iron, and some times it takes me a few tries to get a clean solder connection when attaching the resistor to the bulb.  Are they sensitive to heat?  Although, we're talking 5-15 secs max of heat applied during each attempt where the iron is touching the bulb pin.  Could that shortening the life?

Thanks,
Brian 
You're in it this far...what's another $20?

Offline simi

  • Admiral
  • *****
  • Posts: 586
  • JUST enough knowledge to do some serious damage
Re: It's Not a TMP Refit 1/350, it's a STII:WOK Refit 1/350!
« Reply #17 on: October 06, 2017, 04:32:57 pm »
Not too great that myself - but confirm you have the correct ohm resistor first.  For 12v, 470 ohm sounds about right (for white LEDs).  Perhaps try the next step up?

As for the soldering iron, there really isn't anything to "fry" for resistors AFAIK.  But I HAVE wrecked LEDs with my soldering iron when I've attempted to solder right next to where the leads meet the LED plastic (because I needed the space).  15 seconds seems like a really long time to have the iron in contact with the pin.  Did you tin the pin (which should make the connection easier/faster)?  When I see this done online, the iron is usually on the lead for more like 1-3 seconds.  But I'm not great at soldering either, so I could be wrong about that.

Cheers!

Simi
As a software architect, I'm pretty darn good.  As someone with knowledge of building things in the real world, well, I'm a software architect.

Offline whb64

  • Captain
  • ****
  • Posts: 376
Re: It's Not a TMP Refit 1/350, it's a STII:WOK Refit 1/350!
« Reply #18 on: October 06, 2017, 07:38:53 pm »
Also if you have some helping hands, clip the alligator clip on the LED so it's between the place you intend to solder and the LED.  This will act as a heat sink and help keep excess heat from the LED.  It won't remove all of it but it will remove most.

 




Enterprise © Bloc