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Author Topic: Revell USS Voyager my first kit build  (Read 392 times)

Offline scottminium

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Re: Revell USS Voyager my first kit build
« Reply #15 on: October 04, 2017, 07:07:37 pm »
have to say, VGER is looking quite nice.   ;)
"If there's a bright center to the universe, you're on the planet that it's farthest from."

Offline karve

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Re: Revell USS Voyager my first kit build
« Reply #16 on: October 07, 2017, 05:46:51 am »
She's looking good Patrick!
 Keep it up...it's coming along very nicely.  ;)

"Look again at that dot. That's here. That's home. That's us."
    Quote from Carl Sagan's 'Pale Blue Dot'  1994

Offline Cpt-Spekkie

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Re: Revell USS Voyager my first kit build
« Reply #17 on: October 09, 2017, 06:55:03 am »
Kave and Scottminium thank you both!

I'm really surprised at how well it is coming along. Have made a lot of progress this weekend, started detail painting (something i was very scared of to be honest) and it came out good in my opinion. Not at a level of Boyd or you guys, but for detail painting with a brush and by a total painting noob, not bad at all.
I will post an update on all the progress from this weekend tonight after work.

Also started work on the base and that is almost complete. so almost at a stage where i can close up the model and paint the last seams and details.
And then the stage of decals comes into play and think i will need to ask a few questions on that, so that i can get the best possible result on this beauty.  ;)
3D printing enthusiast - Model making noob - SciFi fanatic
Currently building the U.S.S. Voyager model kit by Revell

Offline MSgtUSAFRet

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Re: Revell USS Voyager my first kit build
« Reply #18 on: October 09, 2017, 01:17:04 pm »

This IS coming along nicely! Well done so far!

I think Boyd is our standard to achieve and, IMHO, many of the builders here reach or exceed that level! I'm still trying to! :)

There are many tools and techniques you can use for that exact painting. One of them being microscale liquid mask. I think Karve used it on his Vger build to great success! (If you have already used it/know about it - please disregard. :) )

You are going a fine job!

Keep at it!

"As long as there is injustice, whenever a Targathian baby cries out, wherever a distress signal sounds among the stars, we'll be there. This fine ship, this fine crew. Never give up... and never surrender."

Offline Cpt-Spekkie

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Re: Revell USS Voyager my first kit build
« Reply #19 on: October 09, 2017, 06:35:41 pm »
Guys standby for a update with a picture overload  :o

This weekend it was time to get my hands dirty and start the painting process now that all mayor parts had their base color. Because i made the "mistake" in painting the base the full light grey color in spray paint, i needed to create a new darker grey from mixing a shade i liked to contrast the lighter color. My thought was about 70% light and 30% medium grey and turned out i was not far off from my estimate.

So wanting to start with a place where mistakes could be a little easier hidden if need be, i chose to start on the bottom of the fantail and then continue to the underside of the saucer. Oh and i installed the shuttle bay before starting these secondary colors.

As you can see the edges are not perfect as i couldn't get the masking quite right. Luckily i can correct these edges after the first application, when i get a little more grasp on painting this technique.

Next it was time to marry the fantail with the engineering hull, so that i could install the last peace of tape lighting and make the seems go away between these two peaces and lichtblock the shuttlebay while i'm at it.

And again i was pleasantly surprised with the fit of this model and the little putty i needed to get a nice seal on the pieces. Okey the shuttlebay needed a little more then the other seems, but nothing to extremely imho.

Having the fantail in place i could not contain myself and decided that before continuing i needed to do some work on the base for Voyager. Mostly because i knew i needed to figure out how much weight i needed to add into the saucer as to balance the model precisely. Only then the model would be able to spin freely on the DC connector that i would use to mount the model to its pole.
The base is based (pun intended) on an IKEA kuggis storage box. When i build the second Runabout for my uncle i wanted to build a base for it with some led lighting in it and a mirror top, a bit inspired on the 350 refit base that Boyd used. Luckily i bought two of the boxes back then in case i messed one up.

Although this box was the one i initially messed up, i could safe it with some sanding so decided to give it a shot. The plexiglass mirror is laying in place on this pictures, but is still covered with the protective film as that is one of the last parts to be removed  ;)

Well now back from this little side trip, back to work on the final steps of the lighting system now that the fantail is in place and dry. So in goes the last piece of tape with 3led's so light up the back upper windows.
Also used the rest of my secondary color batch to paint up the upper section of the fantail and spine.

And for the observant among us (everyone.i think) i did indeed start painting the even darker shade of grey for the impuls grills and sensor platforms.
So sensor platforms on the upper saucer are next, as are the phaser banks. Be aware in these pictures i did not clean up the edges as that is something i only started doing later, as i was still developing my skills for correcting the imperfections.  ::)

As you can see not perfect, but it could have been so much worse! I'm really glad i bought some decent masking tape and the Revell tape that is about 5mm wide for around the phaser banks. those curves were very delicate.  :o

So with that done, i could again not resist and do a light test. part of which was to test the paper backing i places behind the larger windows to bring down the light output in an attempt to make the inserts more visible. To simulate the rooms. And here is were i finally decided on the total amount of wight to balance the ship. (two pieces of metal corner brackets that i bend plat and glues into the forward part of the lower saucer so that it would not interfere with the lighting.

The rooms behind the windows are now a lot more visible and really sell the illusion in my mind.

And with all that done, it was time to undertake something i was concerned about for a lot of days! Something that if messed up would destroy my confidence of the entire build so far...
Because until now i had decided to leave the chiller grills and deflector clear. I just knew that if i would paint them i would mess up and i could not go back. There would be no way i could restore the clear plastic and if the light would not come though as nicely i would be devastated.  ???

But then again leaving the chiller grills clear would also mean i knew they were not correct. And to be honest i had already made one huge mistake in building the nacelles. I glued the grills and nacelles together before painting the outside. Also my intend was to hide the led's and wiring out of sight when leaving the grills clear. The hiding of the led's i managed pretty well, but the main wire pair that went into the pylon would also be a little visible and with the advice from LynnInDenver of dry brushing the grills with a brush i decided to take the plunge and do this.

Picture doesn't really do it justice and the edges need some cleanup when i took these pictures. But i think it payed off!  :)
So thank you very much Lynn for the info on how to do this.

Okay end of this update is in sight, stay with me a little longer. Lastly i chose it was time to glue up the saucer, installed a few small strips of foam to the places of the sensor bands, to help light block this as much as possible, so that i don't need tons of putty. And that worked out perfectly. So glued it up. Putty work still to come. For now a few last shots of the model as it is right now.

Again thanks to all who follow my build and continue to encourage me on my journey. I couldn't do it without your support!

As always i welcome any feedback, tips and insights.
« Last Edit: October 09, 2017, 06:37:35 pm by Cpt-Spekkie »
3D printing enthusiast - Model making noob - SciFi fanatic
Currently building the U.S.S. Voyager model kit by Revell

Offline Cpt-Spekkie

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Re: Revell USS Voyager my first kit build
« Reply #20 on: October 12, 2017, 05:18:25 pm »
I think i have gone to warp with my build, because already i have a new update for you guys  8)

Last time i left you with the 2 main pieces glued, puttied and basically painted. Not all details were finished, but you could make out the main parts.

Well now, i have come to a stage where i completed my base. The mirror, top plexiglass plate and the lighting perimeter is in place. The lighting is not perfectly uniform, i used 4 pieces of blue led tape i recycled, and thus there are no led's in the corners. Maybe i will correct this in the future. The lid itself is not glues to the base, so i can still open up the base (for fixing the electronics if needed).

After this it was time to bring both sections together. I started with connecting the 3 wire pairs and put some micro Kristal Klear on the connectors as a security so that the connectors could not come apart. Let it try a few minutes and then decided to do one more test before getting the contacta glue and as Scooby Doo would say "RUH ROH"!
Mayor problem had accord, to be precise, the anti collision lights stopt blinking. They would stay on and you could see some kind of pulsing in the constant light. So i had messed something up.
Tried to remove as much of the glue as i could, because that was the only thing i did that could affect it. But even with all 3 connectors loose, the 3 remaining lights that were connected (fantail and belly) all stayed on in stead of returning to the blinking pattern.  :o

Well... shit and you know the rest what would come out at that point.

After a few minutes of collecting my calm i returned to the board and noticed that the wires of the belly light (the only one directly soldered to the break out board, had wires that were a little exposed.
So tried to move them and the 3 connected lights returned to normal. FIEUW a sigh or relief. Mode sure the wires were kept apart, and connected the saucer again. tested the electrics and applied some glue again. This time it worked out perfectly. "Stand down from Red Alert"  ;D

Fetched the contacta and joined the primary and secondary hulls. Held it in place for about 20 minutes and then put it down on some supports for it to dry properly.
A few hours later i puttied the last seams above the deflector and the engineering hull and the back of the spine. Use a qtip for the seam under the saucer as read here on the forums and have to say that worked out beautifully!

Then let that try for 24 hours and continues the next day with touching up the seems with paint. And continued painting the details. Some of which got a second coat.

The pictures above show the shit after the painting of the seems but not yet all the details.

And then today Thursday i sprayed two coats of gloss clear coat as a protective layer and to the model as smooth i could before i will start the decal-ing process.
But before that i will let this clear coat harden for about 48 hours. So will start Saturday or Sunday.  :)

Oh and just a disclaimer, i know that some of the details could be even more painted, such as the thrusters, but i didn't want to make a mess of the lines. So tried to do this the best i could do.
Also the main deflector is still not in place. I have decided to give that its matte clear coat when the ship gets it and will be installed last. This way i can get this gloss clear coat and later the matte clear coat onto the whole deflector glass.

Without further due, here are the pictures of the current state!

Looking back at the last 5 weeks of work on this ship, i can definitely say that i have enjoyed every moment of this build so far. But now the daunting part of placing decals is staring me in the face. Hopefully i won't mess this up.

As always i welcome any feedback, tips and insights.
3D printing enthusiast - Model making noob - SciFi fanatic
Currently building the U.S.S. Voyager model kit by Revell


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