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Author Topic: Mr Surfacer?  (Read 298 times)

Offline karve

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Mr Surfacer?
« on: October 15, 2017, 07:06:35 am »
HI all. I have a question.
  I'm toying with the idea of trying some Mr Surface putty products and in just wondering if any of you use it. If so, what applications are they good for and what do you think?
  Are they good for filling seams, light blocking seams, etc?
Thanks in advance. ;)
Kevin

"Look again at that dot. That's here. That's home. That's us."
    Quote from Carl Sagan's 'Pale Blue Dot'  1994

Offline AlW

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Re: Mr Surfacer?
« Reply #1 on: October 15, 2017, 10:25:37 am »
Kevin, I've used Mr. Surfacer in both 500 and 1200 grit varieties.  Here's my breakdown of their usefulness and the range of putties I tend to use:

*  First, my "go to" putty for most seam work is the Deluxe Materials Plastic Putty.  It's great for generally small seams, is water soluble and can be worked wet.  You probably already use this product.  It exhibits some graininess but not much.

*  Think of the Mr. Surfacer products as thickened, lacquer-based, primers.  The 500 grit product is pretty good for seams slightly larger than what you'd address with Plastic Putty.  It's pretty thick and doesn't flow all that well, but you can still apply it with an old brush.  There will be some shrinkage and I've always had to put down at least two coats if not three.  It sands nicely.

*  The 1000 and 1200 grit products will have considerable shrinkage but really are only intended for very small seams like you might have on a 1/72 scale airplane for example.  It sands down to virtually nothing with no visible grain, perfect for the smaller scales.  I've also used it on all my trek nacelles where you have long visible seams.  In a case like this, I've layered it on top of the 500 grit first for a good final appearance.

*  Lastly, for completeness, I use Milliput Superfine White putty for the largest seams.  It's ultra smooth, dries ultra hard and sands well.  The only issue is that it's thick and is best worked by hand, although a carving tool or spatula sometimes helps.  I found it will shred if worked to aggressively.  I use Milliput on resin kits that need a lot of seam repairs and uneven cast surfaces.

Hope this helps with your decision.  Let me know if you have any other questions.

Al

Offline karve

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Re: Mr Surfacer?
« Reply #2 on: October 15, 2017, 11:34:19 am »
Thanks so much Al. That's a huge help.  :)
Kevin

"Look again at that dot. That's here. That's home. That's us."
    Quote from Carl Sagan's 'Pale Blue Dot'  1994

Offline greg

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Re: Mr Surfacer?
« Reply #3 on: October 19, 2017, 11:55:34 pm »
I thin Mr. Surfacer 1000 with Mr. Leveling Thinner and use this as a primer for my models. I stopped using rattle can primers by Tamiya and GSI Creos many years ago once I started using Mr. Surfacer. You can thin Mr. Surfacer 500 if you need a thicker surfacer to cover scratches, cracks, etc. Sometimes I will mix 500 in with 1000 to thicken it as necessary. You can use Mr. Base White as a white primer, too.

There is also the Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 that comes in black and mahogany (maybe another color... I dunno). This can go on over a primer to make a darker surface. Maybe for preshading, at least.

Offline karve

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Re: Mr Surfacer?
« Reply #4 on: October 20, 2017, 03:15:06 am »
Thanks Greg!
It sounds like it is a multi purpose stuff. Very interesting. I'll have to give it a try.  :)
Kevin

"Look again at that dot. That's here. That's home. That's us."
    Quote from Carl Sagan's 'Pale Blue Dot'  1994

Offline RossW

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Re: Mr Surfacer?
« Reply #5 on: October 20, 2017, 08:58:27 am »
You have to be really careful airbrushing the Mr Surfacer stuff as a primer - if you don't use the right thinner, it comes out in spider webs. Might still come out in spider webs unless you can the mix ratio right.

Offline LynnInDenver

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Re: Mr Surfacer?
« Reply #6 on: October 20, 2017, 07:14:05 pm »
You have to be really careful airbrushing the Mr Surfacer stuff as a primer - if you don't use the right thinner, it comes out in spider webs. Might still come out in spider webs unless you can the mix ratio right.

We've had really decent luck using Tamiya lacquer thinner with Mr Surfacer 1200.

Offline captainwarnock

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Re: Mr Surfacer?
« Reply #7 on: November 15, 2017, 09:13:44 am »
I personally think Mr. Surfacer is a must for any seam work being done.  I used to have trouble getting seems to look right and not have any gap in them.  The way I do it now is the following:
  • Use 3M Spot putty on the entire seem, thin coats of it, 2 or 3 coats, sanding in between them.
  • Mr. Surfacer 500, then Sand
  • Mr. Surfacer 1000, then Sand
  • Mr. Surfacer 1200, then Sand
Increment your grit of sandpaper every time to sand with every time you use the Mr. Surfacer.  Maybe start with 600, then move to 1000, or 1200, then polish with a 3000.
Vallejo plastic putty works pretty well for gaps smaller than 1MM.  All the Mr. Surfacer steps above when using the Vallejo putty as well. 
As for a base coat of primer, I still use the Tamiya thin primer in a rattle can. 

Offline greg

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Re: Mr Surfacer?
« Reply #8 on: November 16, 2017, 08:50:27 pm »
You have to be really careful airbrushing the Mr Surfacer stuff as a primer - if you don't use the right thinner, it comes out in spider webs. Might still come out in spider webs unless you can the mix ratio right.
I've never had that problem, but then again I always use Mr. Thinner with Mr. Surfacer. I use Tamiya's thinners for Tamiya's paints. But I am sure that Mr. Surfacer would work with Tamiya's lacquer thinner just fine. Mr. Thinner works fine for Gaia Notes' paints and primers too.

Unrelated as it is, I use Tamiya's acrylic thinner on Testors Model Master acrylics. It works just fine.

 




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