Welcome, %1$s. Please login or register. - Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
 

Author Topic: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit  (Read 452 times)

Offline Spencer

  • Physicist and Astronomer
  • Admiral
  • *****
  • Posts: 585
  • "Well ... let's play this out logically then ..."
    • My Google+ Page
Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #15 on: November 06, 2017, 05:53:12 pm »
How well did the headphone jack fit into the pre-drilled hole? Any modification needed? Looked like a nice fit in the photo.

Offline greg

  • Commander
  • ***
  • Posts: 207
  • aka SteveTheFish, TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan
    • Greg's Neat-o Homepage
Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #16 on: November 06, 2017, 06:44:48 pm »
Holy crap, teach me! So I'd heard about using earphone jacks before, but this is the first time I've seen this in use. OK, so if there are three connection leads on a stereo headphone jack, would it be possible to use a 2-way blue and amber LED in the model and switch between the two colors? This is very cool to see.

I had bought the white plastic parts from the Platz booth at the All-Japan Hobby Show last year (Platz is the distributor for Round2, Moebius, Pegasus, and others and jacks up the prices). I recently obtained the clear parts as well as a new decal set and have a whole new complete kit of this, while I am still slowly building the other. What I am very disappointed is that Tetryon Parts is no longer in operation, and their torpedo bay replacement part is so fantastic because that part of the model is really lacking detail. I am fortunate that I bought one for my current model, but I really hope he will make more in the future.

Now that I am learning how to light model kits, I want to retackle this kit eventually. Plus my friend recently sent me the 1:1000 Reliant as an early Christmas gift and it would be great to have both of these kits side-by-side lit up. Maybe not the nav lights at this small scale, but at least the windows, nacelles, and deflector dish.

EDIT: What size of LED tape are you using? 0805? Is it blue or white?

Offline Cpt-Spekkie

  • Lieutenant
  • **
  • Posts: 44
Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #17 on: November 07, 2017, 04:33:29 am »
@Spencer,
The jack was a little bigger then the original hole. So i enlarged the hole slightly with a hobby knife and then glues the jack in place. I could not use the nut that normally goes onto the jack because the thread was not long enough and then the jack would be at a slight angle and i wanted it perfectly horizontal.

@Greg,
Funny that you are saying teach me, while i used your video's for preparation of this build.  ;D
As for the questions, the earphone/headphone jack was the idea of my dad. We were sparring when i was building Voyager of what i wanted to use, at that time i was searching for a multi wire connector. In the end i used a normal DC jack for Voyager, but i remembered the discussion and now i could use that perfectly for the small refit.

As for using a stereo connector, its only 3 wires, so that would be power and ground as we need these 2 always in our models and then one more wire that you can use. I don't really know how these 2 color led's work, but i would surmise they have a common ground and then 2 power leads, one for one color and the other for the second color. If that is the case, then its not a good idea to supply both pins with power. So i would guess you still would need some sort of control board to switch the pins on the LED. You could however use the 3rd wire to send a signal to this control board that does the color switching. (Does that make sense?)

As for my build, i will post an update later today (now at work) but suffice it to say its coming along,, but man what is space tight in this model!
I already had to scrap the floodlights on the underside of the saucer, (because of space issues and a faulty led) luckily the top floodlight is in place and looks to be working in casting light on the saucer.

All nav lights are 0805 individual led's, and the floodlight is a 0402. The blue led strips in the nacelles are 0805 based if i'm not mistaken (was a remnant of the strips i used in the Voyager build). And the while led strip peaces i'm using for the interior are 5050 led's (also remnant from Voyager).

Also would you think i could get replacement parts for the clear chiller grills in the Netherlands for this model? As i snapped one in half, i can design and print my own. But if i can get replacements at a reasonable price and in time, then why not go the original route.


Offline Cpt-Spekkie

  • Lieutenant
  • **
  • Posts: 44
Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #18 on: November 07, 2017, 04:36:31 pm »
As promised time for the update:

Well a lot has been done to the model. First i really am having issues with light blocking the plastic from the inside. 1 layer of primer, 2 layers of black and 2 layers of white, and still i get light bleed at the locations as were the pegs are and the tekst is located.  ::) So I'm thinking of also light blocking from the outside. With a black layer and then a couple of white primer coats, before going on to the pearlescent white.
Next this model is to tight for space its almost not worth it, but trust me its worth it  ;)

Second oops moment, the plastic is thin and magnet wire seems to like to get hot when soldering. So hot in fact that it melted into the top saucer  :o Luckily i got it just in time, as to not go completely through. So thats why i used plastic putty to build up material on the mishap so that light bleed is no longer an issue at that place. Sigh! crisis averted...



So continuing on it was time for my earlier build 555 timer circuit to be test fitted in the saucer, and did i mention this thing is tight? Well some snipping later and the board was even more trimmed and seemd it would just fit in the center of the model. Well it has to do, i cant really make it smaller now can i.  :P



Back to placing the led's and lets dry fit the secondary hull with pylons and nacelles to see if it all fits.




Well okay that looks to be working, however one problem, the plastic cement is not holding when you have painted the parts. As i obviously knew building Voyager. On Voyager though i had an easy time removing the paint where i needed to place the glue because of the size and the fact that model was not cleaner properly on the inside, so the paint was flaking by itself if not careful. But here i cleaned the entire model as it should be done, and thus it was screwing up this plan.

I decided to just continue building by using the snapping nature of the model and going back with CA glue and activator on the places that need extra adhesion. Also i will putty the seems, so will address this later.

Installation of the deflector led, i had a thin peace of black PLA plastic that was made for the Voyager build (a sizing test for its deflector wall) and this could be easily cut to size and drilled to hold one 3mm blue led.
And a very preliminary light test of the nacelles and engineering interior lighting.



And lastly i snapped a picture just before testing if the saucer could still close with all the wiring and electronics in place.
Short answer, yes it will close.
Long answer, because i remove some of the pegs, i need to glue the saucer on a later date, when i'm completely satisfied the electronics will continue to work.




So this is were i'm at, basically all the lighting i can fit in the model is in the model. All lights are working, but i have only tested it with a 9V battery and guess what, it doesn't have enough power for the full system to operate. As when the NAV lights go out, the interior lighting go up, and vice versa. Also the nacelle lighting is a lot dimmer. So i need to track down or go and get a 9V 1A of 9V 1.5A wall adapter.
Normally i build for 12V, and use a dc-dc converter for the 9V systems in the models, but placing a converter would have ment even more wiring, so no i chose to make the whole model 9V and just get an other adapter.  ;)

Am i done with the model, far from it. Lots of things to do, but for now the electronics are done. So i'm pleased that it worked and that in just over 2 days.  8)

As always, questions, tips and all other remarks, don't hesitate to respond.

Offline greg

  • Commander
  • ***
  • Posts: 207
  • aka SteveTheFish, TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan
    • Greg's Neat-o Homepage
Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #19 on: November 07, 2017, 10:49:53 pm »
You can try contacting Round2 about the replacement clear parts. I can send you an email of the guy who handled my request. I will send that to you via PM so as not to publicly broadcast it.

Here is a tutorial for the blue/amber lights for the deflector dish: http://virtualight.com/?p=1351 I would think that using a 2-way LED like Jerry has at HDA would be even better. I am just learning this stuff and I first want to solder up a 555 timer chip. Baby steps!


Offline Cpt-Spekkie

  • Lieutenant
  • **
  • Posts: 44
Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #20 on: November 08, 2017, 05:24:32 am »
Hey Greg,

Thanks that would be helpful. I will send you a message through PM for that.

As for the 555 timer setup, i just googled it and fount this page 555 timer Enterprise Refit schematic

But yeah if soldering electronics ist really your thing than baby steps is a good way to go.  ;)

Offline greg

  • Commander
  • ***
  • Posts: 207
  • aka SteveTheFish, TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan
    • Greg's Neat-o Homepage
Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #21 on: November 08, 2017, 10:17:35 pm »
That same site I linked to before has a wiring schematic for a 556 chip, which is essentially two 555 chips in one.
http://virtualight.com/?p=1199
I haven't had the occasion to replicate this, but it takes care of the strobes and flashing nav lights at once.

Offline Cpt-Spekkie

  • Lieutenant
  • **
  • Posts: 44
Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #22 on: November 09, 2017, 01:16:16 am »
In other words i should have done a little more research and then i could have used the 556 chip in stead of my 2 555 ships.
Yeah that could have been a little smaller, as now there was a few lines of space between the chips. But luckily it would not have been a huge difference  ;)

On the planning for today, get a decent 9V power adapter test the lighting for a final time and then glue the ship in its final form. After that putty the seems.
Then tomorrow i guess it will be painting day. Although i still need to come up with a way to mask off the led lights for painting, as i don't want to get paint on top of my led's.

any suggestions?

Offline Spencer

  • Physicist and Astronomer
  • Admiral
  • *****
  • Posts: 585
  • "Well ... let's play this out logically then ..."
    • My Google+ Page
Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #23 on: November 09, 2017, 10:55:13 am »
A little white (Elmer's) glue has worked for me in the past.
Just enough a dab over the LEDs to cover them should do the trick and if you get too much, you can clean it up with water and try again.

Then you can peel it away when your done painting.

Offline Cpt-Spekkie

  • Lieutenant
  • **
  • Posts: 44
Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #24 on: November 12, 2017, 02:11:07 pm »
Time for an update:

Most of the mayor work has been done. The lighting systems are now complete. I decided to open up the nacelles one last time and augment the blue led strip of 3 led's with an additional 4th smd led, so that the lichting is a little more even. Without this the left and right sides were a lot dimmer than the middle. Also i found out i had a loose connection in the saucer that resulted in a failing of the warp/impuls crystal ad the interior lighting strips. So was glad i can't glued the thing down yet.

So after all that i glued her up, and made all the parts nice and solid were needed. Putty'd all the seems i could find.
Painting was next: I had already got two coats of the white primer on the hull, but decide to follow up with a coat of medium grey for an additional light blocking layer. Black would be better, but i was not sure if i had enough white left to bring the ship back from a black layer. So grey was a safer choice. For this i used 2 white coats again and after that 2 coats of the Tamiya pearlescent white.

Today i painted up the detail parts as far as i can. (don't have a blue color in house, so the dug egg blue stuff is going to be left white. At least the painted blue parts, the decals will take care of a lot if i'm not mistaken. So things tike the strong backs would still have the correct color i think.

Then there was the issue of my snapping one of the chiller grills in halve on the first day. And although Greg very kindly helped me to the contact details of Round2, i decided i didn't like the look of the original chiller grills anyway. Mostly because of the tabs that were used to hold it into place. I can still order some if i really need to, but for now i have designed some replacements of my own and printed them in PETG plastic. (like the drink bottles)

Decided to print it in 2 color process, white at the bottom (semi translucent) and translucent blue on the top (same as i used in my printed Runabout model). I tried to replicate the concave shape of the grille, but also wanted to do something special with the bars as we need to create 5 distinct bars of light. So i made these bars (0.4mm wide) a little taller then on the original grille. This way i could use a back permanent marker to color the tops of these black. (tried changing the plastic color for this like i did from the white to the blue, but the black didn't like to stick very well) The white bottom part was done for some sort of diffusion of the light, and it kind of works.

Here some of the shots of the model with the lighting going. (oh and the camera does wash out some of the blue color and intensifies the hotspots, in real life these are a lot smoother and more toned down.)






As for now, tomorrow i embark on an away mission to a few days of holiday.  ;) Altho i'm seriously considering bringing the model with some of the decal supplies and maybe when i have an couple of off hours in the vacation home, to do some modeling on the little ship.

So in this comes a question, the finish on the model is now the pearlescent paint, should i still apply a clear gloss coat before doing the decals? Or is this pearlescent coat smooth enough?

And as always, tip,s comments or questions, don't hesitate to reply. I may be gone a few days, but the internet is never far away.

Offline LynnInDenver

  • Commander
  • ***
  • Posts: 195
    • My husband and I on YouTube - TG256
Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #25 on: November 12, 2017, 02:34:39 pm »
So in this comes a question, the finish on the model is now the pearlescent paint, should i still apply a clear gloss coat before doing the decals? Or is this pearlescent coat smooth enough?

It might be, but a coat of clear gloss is good insurance if it isn't, especially with wallpaper decals.

Offline Cpt-Spekkie

  • Lieutenant
  • **
  • Posts: 44
Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #26 on: November 12, 2017, 03:08:03 pm »
Thanks Lynn fr the fast reply.

Better to go the safe route then.

Offline greg

  • Commander
  • ***
  • Posts: 207
  • aka SteveTheFish, TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan
    • Greg's Neat-o Homepage
Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #27 on: November 12, 2017, 06:59:44 pm »
I am certain that I would be able to progress more quickly with my modeling projects if I wasn't such a spaz who works on too many models simultaneously.

The snap fit of the clear parts really does look ugly, and it is why I decided to paint these areas opaque on my unlit model. Those pieces you made look very nice!

I cannot recall if the decals take responsibility for the duck egg blue parts or not. I did paint these as such. I have noticed that the decals are a bit odd. For example I had problems with the pylon decals because the decals actually extend into the parts that will snap into the other parts. I hope you are better at decaling than I am. I need to strip these decals off and redo them with the replacements I got recently because they shattered (mostly my fault).

So your timer chips are located in the saucer? I figured they would be better placed inside the engineering hull, but then again I have not touched this model in a long time.

Offline Cpt-Spekkie

  • Lieutenant
  • **
  • Posts: 44
Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #28 on: November 13, 2017, 12:30:39 am »
Hey Greg,

Thank you for the complement on my parts and yes painting the origionals would have been possible to if i hadn't snappe them in the first place.  ;)

As for the timer electronics, i would have preferred them in the engineering hull as well like i did on the Voyager, but on this model with the board i made it was just not possible. No room in the engineering hull. After all my wires and the power plug was installed, it was almost filled to the brim. So thats why.i opted for the saucer. The middle of that was just big enough to house it and not interfere to much with the lighting.

For the rim windows i should have got a very thin / small led strip and place them around the rim, because of the concave nature of the bottom saucer, but i opted not to do this as i mostly butchered these windows anyway. So just putty'd them back shut and only left some open to give a hint of light.

As for the dugegg blue parts, i will investigate the decals when i get back from my little vacation, and then if i see i'm missing most of the blue parts, i will order some dug egg blue or similar.

For now i'm happy with it, but i will not be bringing the model on vacation with me. So scared to damage the model in the journey.


 




Enterprise © Bloc