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Author Topic: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit  (Read 778 times)

Offline greg

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Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #30 on: November 26, 2017, 11:06:01 pm »
Very nice! I need to finish my own project. I will want to redo the aztecs on the pylons. Unfortunately, I have already used Tamiya Mark Fit Strong on them, so I may not be successful at removing them with tape alone.

Offline MSgtUSAFRet

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Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #31 on: November 27, 2017, 07:30:47 am »
Cpt-Spekkie, this is looking very good! I had to re-read the title to make sure it wasn't a 350 scale!

Well done!

Steady as she goes!

Steve
"To be honest with you, Picard, a significant number of my crew members have expressed a desire to return even knowing the odds. Some because they can't bear to live without their loved ones, some because they don't like the idea of slipping out in the middle of a fight."

Offline Cpt-Spekkie

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Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #32 on: November 27, 2017, 02:13:07 pm »
Thanks Greg and Steve!

@MSgtUSAFRet (Steve) Remember when starting the Voyager i said i would never build the 350 scale because i though it would be to hard?
Well building this 1000 scale ship has me thinking the challenges of lighting such a small thing is harder then the 350 scale. That being said, the bigger one is harder because of painting, and making sure the nacelles are perfectly level and such.

But yes very happy with the result so far. I will keep the helm steady sir!

Offline greg

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Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #33 on: November 27, 2017, 09:28:08 pm »
I think lighting a smaller kit would be rather difficult. I don't have much experience, but smaller kits have narrower internal sections in which to place wires. What will you use for the strobes? 0402 SMDs? I'd be afraid of using fibers because I might break them.

Offline Cpt-Spekkie

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Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #34 on: November 27, 2017, 11:30:38 pm »
Indeed internal space is very limited.

For both the red and green nav lights as the strobes i used 0805 SMDs, so they are a little bigger then the 0402. I bought them pre wired with a 1K resister per led.
For the floodlight at the front (and initially on the bottom, but discarded them) i used 0402 SMDs that were also pre wired with 1K resistor.

Oh and also i used the 0805's for the torpedo's and impuls engines.

Offline Cpt-Spekkie

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Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #35 on: December 02, 2017, 05:27:23 pm »
Its almost a wrap on project 2 for me.

The decals are done, both nacelles have been fitted with the astecs and registry numbers. After that stage i sealed the ship in gloss clear and when that had enough time to dry (24 hours) i followed up with one coat of matte clear. So that makes that the ship is now fully complete.

However its not quite the end of the project, because the power cable with switch and monitor stand are still in development. The ship is hanging off / standing on the monitor, but needs some tweaking.

Although not fully complete i didn't want you guys to wait any longer for a few pictures.
The pictures were taken at night, so no real quality pictures just yet. Those will come in a few days when i have had time to complete the project fully.






As for me i'm really liking the fact i have an Enterprise sitting on my monitor, but i think i will place a little piece of double sided tape between the stand/cli[ and the monitor, to ensure it stays put.
Right now its just hanging off the edge. And yesterday my 3D printed spitfire (left side) came crashing down (smaller clip with less of a lip on the front) and that broke a propeller of the plane. And i can't seem to find it, so hope i find it soon so that i can glue it back on. Otherwise i need to print a new one, and i can't remember the scale i did the original one at  ::)

As always, i'm keen to hear what you guys think.

Offline scottminium

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Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #36 on: December 02, 2017, 06:04:31 pm »
Wow!  Very nice work!
"If there's a bright center to the universe, you're on the planet that it's farthest from."

Offline Decoman

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Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #37 on: December 03, 2017, 01:09:39 am »
Btw, If you are going to use some masking tape and add a little bit of gray with a small brush along the top bottom part of the nacelle where the black is, I recommend putting the masking tape on a flat and hard surface, and cut a new straight edge with a sharp blade, to get the best edge, as the edge of the masking tape might not be the best. It would be important to try get a perfectly straight line using a small metal ruler (or plastic, if you are careful).

Offline Cpt-Spekkie

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Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #38 on: December 03, 2017, 08:29:29 am »
Thanks Scottminium,

@Decoman, does there need to be grey at that part? do you have an example for me to look at?

Offline greg

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Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #39 on: December 03, 2017, 07:25:22 pm »
So what difficulties did you have with the decals? I had problems around the dish. I think maybe the best way to do this is to apply several coats of clear while applying the decals because I have had the decals wear away in some parts due to handling and such.

Offline Cpt-Spekkie

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Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #40 on: December 03, 2017, 11:21:54 pm »
I have to say Greg, that i didn't have to much difficulties with the decals.
I had applied two coats of the gloss clear and that made my surface quite smooth, so started with the first pie slice on the bottom of the saucer and it went on easily.
The slices were to wide, so i would have liked if the decals would have been cut a little narrower, but a sharp scalpel blade made sure i could trim it in some places.
And at other places i just overlapped the pie pieces a little and no one would notice. (I did make sure that no real pattern would overlap, because otherwise that would become darker and that would have been noticeable.)

And after that enough Micro sol so that the decal sank into the paint. 3 or 4 applications in total.
I did have some of the decals break on me, such at the registration mark on the side of the saucer, but with some extra water and careful adjustment i could line it up so that it looked like it was still in tact.

Offline greg

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Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #41 on: December 04, 2017, 12:37:36 am »
I had some problems getting the edges of the saucer aztecs to conform around the edge of the saucer, even after slicing the ends. I also wasn't sure exactly how far up the aztecs should begin, in relation to the bridge or the sensor thingy on the bottom.

One thing's for sure is that I intend to do a clear coat on the aztecs before I try putting the other decals on top of those.

Offline Cpt-Spekkie

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Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #42 on: December 04, 2017, 03:45:43 am »
Yeah knowing were to place the slices is a little difficult. Especially because some are to long and thus need to be trimmed because the bridge / sensor dome were already installed on my ship. The saucer edge sides of the slices i had sliced in 2 places per pie slice and that worked for me.

After the first layer of decals had dried for about 20 hours, i went ahead and applied water to the place i wanted to place the second layer decals, such as the registry number. and sure enough they went on without to much trouble. Having said that, i can surely understand wanting to apply a layer of clear coat between the decals first. And i debated to do this myself, but tested it on a small decal and when that worked i went ahead without the in between coat.

Offline greg

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Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #43 on: December 06, 2017, 10:01:44 pm »
I recently bought some headphone jack sets at a local online electronics retailer and I want to try this out as a power connector. Do you know of any diagrams online to follow as a guide? Thanks.

Offline Cpt-Spekkie

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Re: Project 2: 1:1000 Enterprise 1701 Refit
« Reply #44 on: December 07, 2017, 05:51:14 am »
I don't really have a diagram or followed a diagram to be honest.
On most audio plugs you have 2 or 3 tabs to solder the wires on. normally they are color coded like silver and koper color. they should correspond on both plugs. So silver goes to silver and koper to koper.

What i did however was use a multimeter in continuity mode (beep mode) and test which tabs were connected to each other. To take off the plastic covers of the plugs, put them together and then test. That way i knew for sure if the silver tab of plug 1 was connected to the silver tab on plug 2 and that also for the copper colored one.

Essentially just as if it was a normal DC power plug.

As for which of the tabs you use for the positive wire and which for the negative, Thats up to you. I did however with the mono plug i had choose to use the end part of the male jack for positive and the part behind that for negative. Again using a multimeter to test which tab (silver or koper) corresponds to the end part of the male stalk. Once you have tested this, then you know on which color tab you can solder the positive wire.

Hope this helps.

 




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