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Author Topic: Polar Lights 949 - Enterprise Refit, 1:350 scale  (Read 911 times)

Offline Decoman

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Re: Polar Lights 949 - Enterprise Refit, 1:350 scale
« Reply #45 on: December 03, 2017, 04:05:11 am »
I think I will use a steel wire inside the model, to help stiffen the model against the excessive forward weight that comes from having that 700g saucer section, and this forward weight which will be an even worse issue when i have the stand fixed to the model, with the balancing point set more back on the model.

So, by adding some tension with wire inside, connecting the saucer, center pylon, those parts should rest on the top and sides of the bottom shape, preventing any of these to fall apart. That way, I suspect I won't have to worry too much about plastic snapping off inside the model, in areas that are meant to "clasp" the steel construction I would "spear" the model onto (via a hole in the bottom of the model).

I have an idea for adjusting the tension of the metal wire: have two wires going from bottom to top (to saucer section), then attach the two steel wires to a metal or maybe wood pin, then I can just rotate the pin, and the wire should contract. :)

Edit: Oh, shucks. I just realized, that if I connect the metal wire on the inside, onto the top part of the stand that will be made of metal, I have to FIRST attach the model to the stand, and then do this work with the top saucer part detached.
« Last Edit: December 03, 2017, 04:08:32 am by Decoman »

Offline Decoman

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Re: Polar Lights 949 - Enterprise Refit, 1:350 scale
« Reply #46 on: December 03, 2017, 04:50:19 am »


It is IMPORTANT to not cut into the plastic, or the cut will be hard to fix if the cut is deep. Also best to try avoid scratching the smooth plastic ring on the outside to not end up with even more cleanup work.

I ordered some Evergreen styrene strips for this. Evergreen 8202 (0.56 x 0.56 mm). If that doesn't match, i will have to try with 0.8 x 0.8 mm styrene (I think I saw this as well on sale).

I made sure to only use the chisel for removing SOME of the plastic, don't forget, the dish is concave, and not flat, making it impossible to use the chisel tool all the way, else the chisel tool will bite into the curved plastic outside the area you want to work with.

There are 32 strips, each 1cm long, and less than a millimeter wide.

Idea: It might be a good idea for me, to not entirely remove the trace of all the 32 strips, that way I can easily see where the strips are supposed to go. :) As long as I can get to adequately sand down the rest of the dish on the front side, I won't mind there being a trace of the old plastic, as I will simply put styrene on that. Ofc, the styrene strips ought to be equally wide as the remains of the plastic strips, which could be a little tricky to match, unsure.

Hm, eyeballing this clear part, it looks like the 32 strips are about 0.8mm wide.




Edit: I am not really sure how to get a nice diffuse surface here I must admit. Presumably, the finer grit I use, the more transparent the deflector dish will be. I think I will have to rely on adding a satin or matte varnish (probably diluted abit).

It seems to me maybe, that the sanding part, for having less scratches, is better when using a sanding sponge under running water.
« Last Edit: December 03, 2017, 09:46:47 am by Decoman »

Offline Decoman

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Re: Polar Lights 949 - Enterprise Refit, 1:350 scale
« Reply #47 on: December 03, 2017, 04:55:59 am »
Btw, I had to open a new "bottle" of putty, and tried out the Vallejo putty that comes in a tube and a tipped applicator. This putty seems more liquified, which to me seem to a little different than the Vallejo putty in the 17ml bottles.

Offline Decoman

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Re: Polar Lights 949 - Enterprise Refit, 1:350 scale
« Reply #48 on: December 03, 2017, 09:33:33 am »




This thin ring is hard to see on the big Polar Lights kit transparent part. I did not spot this thin ring until it sort of accidentally showed itself as I had started to sand the outer shape flat (as the plastic seemed to be rounded by the molds). So now, i clearly see the thin ring on the inside, as the matte plastic from the sanded area, contrasts the more glossy plastic of the thin inner circular shape.
« Last Edit: December 03, 2017, 10:57:29 am by Decoman »

Offline Decoman

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Re: Polar Lights 949 - Enterprise Refit, 1:350 scale
« Reply #49 on: December 03, 2017, 04:03:23 pm »


Looking at something in a photo, I notice that I can try make the circular shape seen at the center of the photo here have a 100% round shape, a correction to the PL kit, which blends the round shell with the three big tapered shapes.

I can do this, but I have to be careful and patient. :P



Also, I noticed that there are smooth edges on this part of the model, while the PL kit has more sharp edges (I looks to me that the edges aren't sharp, let me know if anyone think otherwise):

There is an additional smooth edge seen to the left as well, as if having been layered over, but, hm, maybe there is simply a recessed panel line there with that darker line.
« Last Edit: December 04, 2017, 04:16:29 am by Decoman »

Offline Decoman

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Re: Polar Lights 949 - Enterprise Refit, 1:350 scale
« Reply #50 on: December 04, 2017, 04:00:24 am »
It looks to me on photos showing the studio model, that this flat surface here on the PL, isn't flat on the studio model. I could be wrong but that is what it looks like to me. Though I won't change this.



I have added a bit of 0.5 mm styrene to increase the hight just a little bit. I'll carefully sand down the rear part. I'm not quite sure


I might have to add a little bit of putty on the very circular edge in front of the "wedge" shape, to make it equally thick as the rest of the circular edge elsewhere. Unsure.


Adding this 0.5mm bit of styrene fits nicely with that little thingy that I was planning to add styrene to. Two different problems solved with one thing. :) note, the backside of the 0.5mm bit of styrene was sanded down a little bit to make more level.




Better, but a cleanup is required, which hides the seams and ideally makes surfaces crisp and flush:
« Last Edit: December 04, 2017, 04:36:05 am by Decoman »

Offline Decoman

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Re: Polar Lights 949 - Enterprise Refit, 1:350 scale
« Reply #51 on: December 04, 2017, 07:10:15 am »

Offline Decoman

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Re: Polar Lights 949 - Enterprise Refit, 1:350 scale
« Reply #52 on: December 04, 2017, 10:09:42 am »
I have an idea for my custom stand, in order to avoid risk having the model fall apart, due to the front side being heavy:

Basically, the model would rest on a stand that is shaped like a thin plate which the model seemingly rests on (15 cm wide), but the metal shape has a 3cm plate that goes even further up, and into the model, which helps the model from tiling forwards. Now, the steel wiring could be used to have the model hang off this steel fixture, and then, the twisting idea is for fine tuning, as I expect the double steel wire, when twisted and becoming entangled, the length should contract and allow for some minor adjustment should the front heavy model be sagging a little bit forwards after mounting the model onto the stand and tying it up with the steel wiring. There should probably be some additional stuff inside, to prevent the whole model flipping backwards off the point of pivot on the bottom, even though the model is front heavy.

I am also entertaining the idea, that this kind of setup, will have tension applied to all the major parts, thus preventing any of them, coming un-glued, due to sheer force or any other force acting on the parts to move away from each other.


Edit: Aah, i see now that I might have some free-space issue here, as the LEDs for the top side impulse clear part might take up much space. Hm, I could maybe use a screw to tighten the wires instead of some large pin.
« Last Edit: December 04, 2017, 12:15:07 pm by Decoman »

Offline Decoman

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Re: Polar Lights 949 - Enterprise Refit, 1:350 scale
« Reply #53 on: December 05, 2017, 02:33:04 am »
I ordered a 5cm wide clear Christmas ornament thingy (10pcs) to hopefully create a diffuse barrier just behind the deflector dish clear part at the very front.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10PCS-Christmas-Tree-Decor-Ornament-5CM-Ball-Type-Box-Transparent-Plastic-C-PF/222560097908

Who knows, these might be too thick after adding some sating/matte varnish, but I'll try this and see how it goes. Edit: Actually, they look super clear, I think this will work nicely.

I want to try recreate what this guy did to his Enterprise refit model: http://www.ianlawrencemodels.com/wipplentcom21.html.
Note: This guy made his own plastic shape, I will just try buy something round and smooth that I can use, and I think 5cm will do.

(Image used from that guy's webpage)
« Last Edit: December 05, 2017, 02:33:53 pm by Decoman »

Offline Decoman

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Re: Polar Lights 949 - Enterprise Refit, 1:350 scale
« Reply #54 on: December 05, 2017, 03:47:21 am »
I wonder what these four openings are. I am tempted to do something to them, maybe create a rectangular hole, or at least drill a row of holes in each of the four sections:

Offline Decoman

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Re: Polar Lights 949 - Enterprise Refit, 1:350 scale
« Reply #55 on: December 05, 2017, 02:16:49 pm »
I have an idea for my use-a-wire-inside-the-model-to-avoid-the-model-falling-apart.

This, is a makeshift screw, that I would be able to turn with my fingers, sliding around on a metal part, as a fine tuning for the tightening of the two steel wires, and the wiring is going down through a short metal pipe (not shown here) to avoid adding pressure on the plastic.

The only place I see having free space for having such a turn knob, is there at the very front of the center pylon:


The blue line in the image below, indicate a pair of steel wires that could, as I imagine it, pull at the forward heavy saucer section, fastened to the metal stand to be on the right side somewhere, to be able to safely balance the model on my custom stand, so that there aren't any force acting on the plastic alone around any of the seams:


This might work. Though I am not 100% sure. With the wiring going through the center of the pylon, I should try hide the wiring by painting them white at least, and maybe I can fog the clear parts for the round window openings. Unsure how I can try best hide any wiring inside the center pylon.

I wonder how much a pair to entwined steel wires will contract when entangled. I am guessing about 1/3 of the un-entangled wire length
Edit: I tested this just now and I got a ca 1+ cm compression effect, which should be enough.
« Last Edit: December 05, 2017, 02:55:41 pm by Decoman »

Offline rmpitzer

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Re: Polar Lights 949 - Enterprise Refit, 1:350 scale
« Reply #56 on: December 05, 2017, 02:22:40 pm »
to-avoid-the-model-falling-apart.

Is that an issue with this kit?  I've not heard of anyone having trouble with them falling apart.

Offline Decoman

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Re: Polar Lights 949 - Enterprise Refit, 1:350 scale
« Reply #57 on: December 05, 2017, 02:41:43 pm »
No, the thing is that I want a custom stand that have the whole model balance off a pivot point that is further back, and this is not the same way the model would pivot on the kit stand.

Unfortunately (but per design so to speak), my custom stand makes the forward heavy model, even more forward heavy, and I seriously doubt that i can make that work, relying on just plastic and glue alone, so that the model will never fall apart after 5 years of continuous stress.

« Last Edit: December 05, 2017, 03:36:11 pm by Decoman »

Offline Decoman

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Re: Polar Lights 949 - Enterprise Refit, 1:350 scale
« Reply #58 on: December 05, 2017, 02:59:45 pm »
I tested the 1.5mm diameter galvanized wire just now, and starting with a ca 30cm wire lenght, after rotating the wire, the length of the wire was shortened to about 27.5 cm, a contraction of about 2 cm.

There are ummm..38 turns on the wire here in the photo. The two wires seem solid and doesn't curl or anything at this point after 38 turns.



« Last Edit: December 05, 2017, 03:21:59 pm by Decoman »

Offline Decoman

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Re: Polar Lights 949 - Enterprise Refit, 1:350 scale
« Reply #59 on: December 06, 2017, 05:00:58 am »
This is basically how I imagine the turn knob to be like, for entwining the two steel wires. It will be tricky to bend this 1.5 mm thick wire, but I think it can be done, but I will only have 1cm of space beneath the screw to get some pliers tugging at the wires, for forcing the two wires to bend nicely around the screw a few turns on each side. At least the top side of the saucer will be off.

There would ofc also be a second wire which would be winded around the screw on the other side, I may or may not, make a knot in the end with the ends of the two wires, but it could be that it won't be necessary.

Edit: I guess the simplest thing here would be for me to just entwine the two loose ends, so I don't even have to make a knot (which would be hard with this thick wire), presumably that winding will be enough.

Note: The screw part here can actually be screwed off the wire. Might come in handy one day, should I have to take the model apart for some reason.




Edit: Hm, I guess I could consider having a simple clamp instead, and twist that around to entwine the two wires. It would surely be much less hassle that way if I can avoid having to wind the wires around the screw part, and just clamp the two wires somehow.

I am open to suggestions if anyone can think of a wire clamp that could fit into all of this, and not being too large. Such a clamp can't be much taller than 1cm. The best clamp would be the smallest one possible AND it must be possible to easily twist this clamp, so that I can get to entwine the two steel wires by simply rotating the clamp.
« Last Edit: December 07, 2017, 08:48:57 am by Decoman »

 




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