Author Topic: Klingon Bird of Prey ... big and small (Read 8363 times)

Spencer · « **Reply #90 on:** February 10, 2019, 07:02:36 pm »

Hello Everyone,

I'm back to working on the Klingon Bird of Prey, albeit slowly.

Sorry for being out of commission for too long. Lots of weddings, funerals, birthdays, baby showers, etc. over last summer and fall, but January 12/13th this year took the cake.

I thought I was dealing with persistent lung and chest infections, but it turned out to be much more serious. Long story short, Google "Saddle Pulmonary Embolism" and "Catheter-directed Thrombolysis" and you'll get the idea.

But, the good thing is that I was cleared for normal activity pretty quick and am actually feeling better than I have in some time. I still have some residual symptoms and leg swelling to deal with so I'm still just a tad bit limited in how much I can do.

Anyhow, I have been rethinking my color scheme a little bit. I decided my original colors were a bit too bright so i went with some darker ones. Good thing is all the hull colors are now Model Air, so no messing around with thinning Model Color. I'm set on using Model Air so I'm going to do some more practicing on a scrap kit (when I can get back to Hobby Lobby to get one).

Hull Colors - All Vallejo Model Air
==============================================
Main Hull - Pale Green 71.095

Underside Feather Pattern - Red 71.102

Accent Panels:
Light Ghost Gray 73.615 (Surface Primer)
Light Green Chromate 71.006 and/or Green Zinc Chromate 71.094
"Emerald Color" - Light Green RLM25 71.267
"Sac Bomber Green" - Green 71.329
White 71.001
Black 71.057
==============================================

Metalllics
================
Rust 71.069 and 71.080
Gun Metal 71.072
Steel 71.065
================

Clear Parts
===============================
Tamiya Clear Yellow X-24
Tamiya Clear Orange X-26
Tamiya Clear Red X-27
===============================

And the VERY rough colors in GIMP

I still need to drill out the rest of the windows and running/spot lights and test one of my lighting boards. And order some more paint of course.

Cheers,
Spencer

MSgtUSAFRet · « **Reply #91 on:** February 12, 2019, 10:12:58 am »

Spencer, Welcome back to the bench!!!

Love the planning you're putting into this one!

Can't wait to see what you do!

Stay strong and steady as she goes.

Steve

Spencer · « **Reply #92 on:** February 15, 2019, 10:55:22 pm »

Quote from: MSgtUSAFRet on February 12, 2019, 10:12:58 am

Spencer, Welcome back to the bench!!!
Love the planning you're putting into this one!
Can't wait to see what you do!
Stay strong and steady as she goes.
Steve

Thanks Steve.

Going to be working on getting a control board ready next. Then light blocking and figuring out where my LEDs need to go. I'm running the circuit at 5V so just about everything will need to be run in parallel.

But I figured I'd just give a quick tip to some of you out there. Given that I'm seriously out of practice soldering SMD components (since college), I ordered an SMD soldering practice board. Imagine that ... They're a good, and relatively cheap, way to get brushed up on SMD soldering. Plus you can get a few extra components if you're not in the mood to solder the whole thing.

Plus I managed to get a 50th anniversary 18" Enterprise at Hobby Lobby on the cheap, so it's going to be my testbed. And I may even get around to building it one day.

Of course, the paint I ordered is out there in the aether somewhere ... gotta love living in the sticks.

Spencer

starsiegeplayer · « **Reply #93 on:** February 18, 2019, 07:48:16 pm »

The smd practice board look like a great idea..

Spencer · « **Reply #94 on:** March 01, 2019, 06:20:40 pm »

In the words of the late great Bob Hoskins as Mr. Smee ... "I've just had an apostrophe."

My local Walmart, of all places, now has the 1:1000 Klingon BOP + U.S.S. Grissom kit on display, so I bought one.
This evening, I finally realized that I could use it to test out all my colors and washes and weathering, albeit scaled down, rather
than jump in head first on the big BOP.

So, I'll be practicing on that for a bit. Be back when I make progress on that and my lighting scheme(s).

Spencer

Spencer · « **Reply #95 on:** March 05, 2019, 09:01:30 pm »

Construction on the 1:1000 BOP commences, at least as much before I need to start spraying. This "snap" kit goes together
fairly well, but I'd still recommend some thin cement.

But, it's still too cold to spray, even in the basement. Got a wind chill advisory down to -15F/-26C through tomorrow.
Starting to think I've been had by the groundhog.

Next up will be playing with more solder and PCBs ...

Spencer

Spencer · « **Reply #96 on:** March 06, 2019, 02:50:02 pm »

My control board for the Bird of Prey is now soldered up and everything still works when tested. Hooray!
Not the prettiest solder job I've done, but it doesn't have to be.

When the time comes, I'll wrap my "wrapping" wire around the standoffs, solder, and hot glue everything to within an inch of its existence.

Spencer

MSgtUSAFRet · « **Reply #97 on:** March 06, 2019, 03:05:45 pm »

Spencer, glad to see you back at the bench; even if working on the smaller version. I hadn't thought of doing that as a test for the boards. (May have to borrow that!)

The solder job is a darn sight better than any I could have done! Don't knock it!

Is that a 555 timer IC on that board? I'll have to go back and see if you shared you schematics on the thing and suss out how you did that.

Keep sharing! Looking forward to seeing this one come together.

Steve

Spencer · « **Reply #98 on:** March 06, 2019, 03:26:50 pm »

Thanks Steve.

The board uses an ATtiny85 I programmed with Arduino. I posted a link to Github a while ago, but here is the post if you don't want to scroll back.
http://scifimodelaction.com/sfmaforum/index.php?topic=7257.msg94542#msg94542

This board could possibly squeeze into the 1:1000 BOP, but it's meant for the big one.

I'll be working on opening up the rest of the windows on the 1:350 and holes for the running lights.

The moment it's warm enough, whenever that is, I'll start priming both models and light blocking.

Spencer

MSgtUSAFRet · « **Reply #99 on:** March 07, 2019, 07:53:49 am »

Quote from: Spencer on March 06, 2019, 03:26:50 pm

Thanks Steve.

The board uses an ATtiny85 I programmed with Arduino. I posted a link to Github a while ago, but here is the post if you don't want to scroll back.
http://scifimodelaction.com/sfmaforum/index.php?topic=7257.msg94542#msg94542

This board could possibly squeeze into the 1:1000 BOP, but it's meant for the big one.

I'll be working on opening up the rest of the windows on the 1:350 and holes for the running lights.

The moment it's warm enough, whenever that is, I'll start priming both models and light blocking.

Spencer

Okaaaaaaayyy....after reading or, more accurately, seeing your code, I have come to the realization that things like this are why you are the physicist and I am...uhm...NOT. While I have coded before (Visual basic OOP) Java, or what appears to be Java, is a little out of my wheelhouse.

About the painting - don't know your location, nor do I have to, but wouldn't you be able to run a, say, hairdryer over the paint after applied; no matter the ambient temp and humidity?

If I waited for the humidity to be under 70% in Houston, I would never paint. I use a hairdryer to dry the paint after it's applied. So far, it has worked for me. I still leave the paint to "cure" inside the house for a few days before I paint over of mask over.

Just a thought - or two.

Keep going!

Steve

Spencer · « **Reply #100 on:** March 07, 2019, 08:36:08 am »

Quote from: MSgtUSAFRet on March 07, 2019, 07:53:49 am

Okaaaaaaayyy....after reading or, more accurately, seeing your code, I have come to the realization that things like this are why you are the physicist and I am...uhm...NOT. While I have coded before (Visual basic OOP) Java, or what appears to be Java, is a little out of my wheelhouse.

LOL.
Arduino uses C (or C++, I never get that right) and I am personally more of a Python / shell scripting person. I've seen ways to make several languages work with Arduino however, as
long as you're willing to hunt around for them. That makes me wonder if there should be a dedicated section for Arduino and electronics on the new website. I personally get the sense
that it's not as "hot" of a topic as it was recently, maybe because it's fairly easy to get lighting kits for most new models now.

But, as always, if anyone has questions or wants and explanation, I'm happy to give it.

Quote from: MSgtUSAFRet on March 07, 2019, 07:53:49 am

About the painting - don't know your location, nor do I have to, but wouldn't you be able to run a, say, hairdryer over the paint after applied; no matter the ambient temp and humidity?

If I waited for the humidity to be under 70% in Houston, I would never paint. I use a hairdryer to dry the paint after it's applied. So far, it has worked for me. I still leave the paint to "cure" inside the house for a few days before I paint over of mask over.

I normally wouldn't worry too much about temperature (mid-high 60s degF is good enough for me), and I keep a dehumidifier running next to the bench whenever I paint. But, it was so cold
yesterday that I had to fire the wood stove in the basement where I spray, and so there's the whole paint fumes and flame thing.
Even with a spray booth venting outside I try not to play that game when using rattle cans.

Spencer