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Author Topic: Klingon Bird of Prey - Colors and Details  (Read 5591 times)

Offline Spencer

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Re: Klingon Bird of Prey - First weathered and lit build.
« Reply #15 on: January 04, 2018, 11:16:41 am »
Joker Toys!

LOL!

Of possible interest to you Steve are some small carbide like bits on loan from a friend, he said that Micro-Mark sells them too.
They might make the torpedo windows a bit easier to clear out for me. Will probably have to buy a set if it works out.





My red-white bi-color LEDs showed up in the mail this morning. Video below. You can see the red diode is clearly off to one side, but
that shouldn't be a problem by the time it get's jammed into the torpedo housing and the clear insert put over it. Click to play.



The pcb should be on it's way to fab soon ... but will still be a couple weeks.

I also ordered a couple switches. A yellow latching one for power and a red pushbutton for the torpedoes.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11974
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11966

And some wrapping wire from Jerry over at http://hdamodelworx.com/

No ideas for the base yet, but there will be a simple 5V linear regulator circuit in there.

Still have to order the rest of the LED's and fibers ...
« Last Edit: January 04, 2018, 11:18:24 am by Spencer »

Offline Spencer

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Re: Klingon Bird of Prey - First weathered and lit build.
« Reply #16 on: January 07, 2018, 09:56:18 pm »
Been a couple days since an update. Not much to say though.

My 1/4" female headphone connector arrived yesterday. There's enough clearance for it to fit, but I'll have to fill in the original
mounting hole, drill the new hole forward a bit and enlarge. Waiting on my scrap styrene to get here to do that.

Also got a 2.1mm DC power connector. You'll be able to see some threads on the connectors for this build, but I
think it'll add the the utilitarian, Klingon aesthetic.

My 0603 parts arrived for the circuit board. It's really just a sample book of resistors and capacitors from China, but they should do the job.

A lot of of other things should be arriving on " ... don't tell me, Tuesday?" and I should have nearly everything except the circuit boards by the end of the week.

This is definitely one of those models where you have to have a lot planned out before you get into the thick of it.

Spencer

Offline MSgtUSAFRet

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Re: Klingon Bird of Prey - First weathered and lit build.
« Reply #17 on: January 08, 2018, 07:40:45 am »
Hey Spencer!

Of possible interest to you Steve are some small carbide like bits on loan from a friend, he said that Micro-Mark sells them too.
They might make the torpedo windows a bit easier to clear out for me. Will probably have to buy a set if it works out.




Those needle burs look like they would be small enough for just about anything! But they do look like diamond tipped burs used for cutting glass rather than plastic. Have you used them yet? How did they work?

Is your 1/4" female headphone connector gonna be your power supply connector/display stand?

Keep going! Learning lots!

Steve
"To be honest with you, Picard, a significant number of my crew members have expressed a desire to return even knowing the odds. Some because they can't bear to live without their loved ones, some because they don't like the idea of slipping out in the middle of a fight."

Offline Spencer

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Re: Klingon Bird of Prey - First weathered and lit build.
« Reply #18 on: January 08, 2018, 10:26:52 am »
Those needle burs look like they would be small enough for just about anything! But they do look like diamond tipped burs used for cutting glass rather than plastic. Have you used them yet? How did they work?

Is your 1/4" female headphone connector gonna be your power supply connector/display stand?

Keep going! Learning lots!

Steve


Thanks Steve.

First:
Yes, the headphone jack will sit on top of the support tubing and plug into the model.
It's a stereo jack for 5V, ground and the pushbutton line. Here's what I'm using, still on it's way from Adafruit:

https://www.adafruit.com/product/1803

Here's the female connector I got from digi-key:

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/switchcraft-inc/112BX/SC1317-ND/1217816

Second:
Here's a pic of my first go on the torpedo emitter housing. I used a #80, yep 80, bit to drill out a few holes as best I could, then,
I used it as a file to "saw" out the gaps between and do basic cleanup of the burs. Not ideal and slow, but it works.
This is about an hour of work for me being extra careful not to break the bit. My big question now is, what do I fill them
with. Clear epoxy or acrylic before paint and assembly, or canopy glue at the end. I'm not sure which will look better. Hmm ...

It's a bit rough up close, but when you step back a typical distance it looks pretty clean.


After digging around Micro-Mark, I think I found the actual bits in question. They're called diamond reamers. My buddy gave me this set to try.
He uses them to chew through clear acrylic.

https://www.micromark.com/3-piece-Diamond-Reamer-Set

I used them to enlarge the window a bit on the outside and inside. Inside especially to give light a better chance to hit it. It whittled
on the plastic without hesitation. They're not quite big enough to get into the smaller torpedo windows, but should work on the bigger ones.
That's all I can say for now.




Some of my styrene, my paints and LEDs arrived today, so yay! I can get back to drilling later in the week.

Spencer
« Last Edit: January 08, 2018, 10:37:52 am by Spencer »

Offline Spencer

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Re: Klingon Bird of Prey - First weathered and lit build.
« Reply #19 on: January 10, 2018, 09:39:38 pm »
Waiting on my fiber optic to get here. PCBs were shipped today!

More work on drilling out the torpedo ring. The small drill bits, followed by a bit of smoothing by the reamers is working.
But, I decided to cement in the torpedo insert before doing the bottom windows.

The problem here is that the inset completely covers them, plus the plastic of the "ring" is much thinner here and the windows
need drilled at a pretty oblique angle.

Still a bit of cleanup to do.


I used Tamiya extra thin cement to attach the insert, putting it in every seam I could see.
That way, it should be a bit easier to open up the lower windows, even if i drill into the insert a tad.

Compared to these, the rest of the drilling on this kit should be a breeze!

Sorry about the camera here, it overexposes and makes the windows look rougher than they really are.



I don't know how you guys drill out windows for TNG ships, I think I'd go nuts!


I'm still debating whether or not to tear down the disruptors and rebuild them with some tubing like i've seen in other builds.
Never tried anything like it before. Still a fews days away from that though. Need to sleep on it.

Cheers,
Spencer
« Last Edit: January 10, 2018, 09:46:04 pm by Spencer »

Offline MSgtUSAFRet

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Re: Klingon Bird of Prey - First weathered and lit build.
« Reply #20 on: January 11, 2018, 07:57:03 am »
Spencer, your drill outs look very well done! Nice work!

As for the disruptors, as you may know, there are metal gun-barrels available on the web. They are primarily used for WWII airplane and armour builds. I'm not sure of the scale you would need nor if you could find something suitable matching the disruptors but after a quick search I found this website. http://store.spruebrothers.com/category_s/1949.htm It's just a suggestion - feel free to find something to your liking - just thinking while typing.

The TNG drill outs - well, once you find the right tools... ;)

Looking great!

Qapla'!

Steve
"To be honest with you, Picard, a significant number of my crew members have expressed a desire to return even knowing the odds. Some because they can't bear to live without their loved ones, some because they don't like the idea of slipping out in the middle of a fight."

Offline Spencer

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Re: Klingon Bird of Prey - First weathered and lit build.
« Reply #21 on: January 11, 2018, 11:50:46 am »
@Steve. I thought about gun barrels, but I ordered a 1lb. bag of assorted K&S metal tubing, to isolate the torpedo LED
and have some lying around. I also got a bag of assorted evergreen tubing for the fiber optics.

I think there should be enough metal tubing to do the job. My worry is getting the barrels straight if I go that route.
Would have to come up with a jig or template of some kind. Haven't put much thought into it yet.



I had some time over lunch to get the rest of the torpedo windows drilled. Putting the insert in was definitely the right decision
as I had to go through a good chunk of the support piece. But it's done and the Tamiya cement did its job. A big mental hurdle passed.





I like the way this is looking.


I think I'm going to fill these in with canopy glue, tinted with some red food coloring, after all the painting and weathering is done.
They're small enough to where I think that should work. I can always hit them with some clear red Acryl later if the tint isn't enough.

Spencer



« Last Edit: January 11, 2018, 11:53:14 am by Spencer »

Offline Tonimus

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Re: Klingon Bird of Prey - First weathered and lit build.
« Reply #22 on: January 11, 2018, 04:21:49 pm »
Sweet looking torp port.

Offline Spencer

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Re: Klingon Bird of Prey - First weathered and lit build.
« Reply #23 on: January 12, 2018, 10:08:53 pm »
Sweet looking torp port.

Thanks!



Well, most of my stuff arrived early, and I made a decision.

I'm going to try and rebuild the disruptors with metal tubing. I'll be ale to see tomorrow whether I have enough of the right sizes.
If worst comes to worst, I'll just have to go get another kit and use those pieces stock (and sell the rest for parts). I thought about
sending in the form to Round 2 to buy replacements, but it would be more expensive and the last time I got a replacement
part it took 5 weeks.

So, I had to rethink my lighting. If the disruptors are going to be lit, then they will have to fire. They just ... they just have too!  ;D

The problem is that I would need two pushbuttons, but only have enough connections on my headphone jack for 5V, ground and
one pushbutton. I was using two of the Attiny85's pins for the engines, but I have some bright wide angle white LEDs that I'll be using
and I might be able to get away with one, or hook up a transistor circuit. That leaves the second pin open for the disruptors, but still
one pin short for another button.

I thought there must be a way to do this, then I found a few places online with code to make push-buttons multifunction.

I've written some code such that when I push the button, it fires the torpedoes, if I press and hold, it fires the disruptors in random
bursts for 8 seconds. I'll post my code later since it's a bit of a mess right now. I'll probably have to hook up a transistor circuit for
the disruptors too, but no biggie. What was supposed to be simple lighting has ... well, you know.  ;)

A video of the circuit on a breadboard with the exposure way down. Click to play (about 5MB on Flickr).



Cheers,
Spencer

« Last Edit: January 12, 2018, 10:15:42 pm by Spencer »

Offline scottminium

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Re: Klingon Bird of Prey - First weathered and lit build.
« Reply #24 on: January 13, 2018, 03:01:25 pm »
Love the lighting work!
"I rather believe that time is a companion who goes with us on the journey, and reminds us to cherish every moment... because they'll never come again."

Offline Spencer

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Re: Klingon Bird of Prey - First weathered and lit build.
« Reply #25 on: January 13, 2018, 03:20:11 pm »
Love the lighting work!

Thanks!



Here is the current version of the modified code.
NOTE: I've commented out the pinMode, digitalRead and digitalWrite commands and replaced them with the more direct register commands.
                              (DDRB, PORTB, PINB) Keep this in mind if you adapt it for your own use.


Quote
// S. A. Wolfe
// 1 - 13 - 2017
// MacOSX 10.11.6 - Arduino 1.0.5 - Arduino-Tiny Hardware Files


// My code for lighting effects for the 1:350ish Klingon Bird of Prey model
//      kit from AMT/Round 2. The code is written for an ATtiny85 microcontroller.
//      A button, when pushed, fires the photon torpedo launcher and, when pushed
//      and held, fires the disruptors in short bursts for a time. The main engines
//      also fade slowly with faster pulsations over top of that. Some of this code
//      I discovered online and I take no credit for sections where I use it.
//      Feel free to use and adapt as you see fit.

// Pinout (Attiny85):
// Pin 1 = RESET, Pin 2 = Arduino Pin 3, Pin 3 = Arduino Pin 4 (PWM), Pin 4 = GND
// Pin 5 = Arduino Pin 0 (PWM), Pin 6 = Arduino Pin 1 (PWM), Pin 7 = Arduino Pin 2, Pin 8 = VCC

// Binary sketch size: 3,368 bytes (of a 8,192 byte maximum)

// NOTE: The torpedo launcher and disruptors fire when the ATiny is powered up or reset.
//       This is intentional because I use it as a kind of "sef-test" to make sure
//       the MCU is working properly.

// A version of the schematic can be found at: https://flic.kr/p/DMQ8q6
// A video of the lighting effects concept can be viewd at: https://flic.kr/p/FhKBLy



// ===================== Variables =============================================================//
// -------  Declaring Pins ----------------------------------------------//
static byte disruptorPin = 0;
static byte enginePin = 1;
static byte pushButtonPin = 2;
static byte torpPin[] = { 3, 4 };

// -------  User Inputs ------------------------------------------------//
static unsigned long torpUpTime = 1750;
static unsigned long torpFlashTime = 200;
static unsigned long torpDownTime = 150;
static long double torpIdleBrightness = 10;
static long double torpMaxBrightness = 255;
static unsigned long engineFadePeriod = 6000;
static unsigned long disruptorFiringTime = 8000;

// -------  For the Button Pushing -------------------------------------//
unsigned long debounce = 30;
unsigned long holdTime = 1500;

// -------  Bookeeping ------------------------------------------------//
unsigned long currentMillis;
boolean buttonValue = false;
boolean buttonLast = false;
boolean ignoreUp = false;
unsigned long buttonUpTime;
unsigned long buttonDownTime;
unsigned long torpedoTime;
unsigned long disruptorTime;
unsigned long torpedoMillis;
unsigned long disruptorMillis;
unsigned long disruptorFlashTime;
boolean disruptorState = 0;
// ==================== End Variables ========================================================= //



// ===================== Setup ================================================================ //
void setup() {
  //pinMode(disruptorPin,OUTPUT);
  //pinMode(enginePin,OUTPUT);
  //pinMode(pushButtonPin,INPUT_PULLUP);     // Enables internal pull-up resistor
  //pinMode(torpPin[0],OUTPUT);
  //pinMode(torpPin[1],OUTPUT);
  DDRB = DDRB | (1 <<  disruptorPin) | (1 << enginePin) | ( 1 << torpPin[0] ) | ( 1 << torpPin[1] );
  DDRB = DDRB & ~(1 << pushButtonPin);
  PORTB = PORTB | (1 << pushButtonPin);

}
// ===================== End Setup ============================================================ //



// ===================== Main Loop ============================================================ //
void loop() {
  currentMillis = millis();         // get current time
 
 // ---------- Push Buttoon Code --------------------------------------------------------//
 // Found Most of This Online. I Take No Credit for It.
  //buttonValue = digitalRead(pushButtonPin);
  buttonValue = (PINB & (1 << pushButtonPin)) >> pushButtonPin;
 
  // Record Time of Push
  if (buttonValue == LOW && buttonLast == HIGH && (millis() - buttonUpTime) > debounce){
    buttonDownTime = millis();
  }
 
  // Record Time of Release
  if (buttonValue == HIGH && buttonLast == LOW && (millis() - buttonDownTime) > debounce){
    buttonUpTime = millis();
    if (ignoreUp == false){
      torpedoTime = millis();        // If released early, fire torpedoes!
     }
     else{
       ignoreUp = false;
      }
   }

  // If push time is longer than threshold, fire dusruptors!
  if (buttonValue == LOW && (millis() - buttonDownTime) > long(holdTime)){
    buttonDownTime = millis();
    disruptorTime = millis();
    ignoreUp = true;
   }
 
  // Record the button state for comparison in the next cycle
  buttonLast = buttonValue;   
 // -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------//
 
 
 
 // ---------- Torpedo Firing ----------------------------------------------------------//
 // Ramp Up Red LED, Flash White LED, then a Ramp Down of Red LED
  // Ramp Up
  if ((currentMillis-torpedoTime) < torpUpTime){
    analogWrite(torpPin[1],torpIdleBrightness+(torpMaxBrightness-torpIdleBrightness)/torpUpTime*(currentMillis-torpedoTime));
    //digitalWrite(torpPin[0], LOW);
    PORTB = PORTB & ~(1 << torpPin[0]);
  } 
  // Flash
  else if (((currentMillis-torpedoTime) > torpUpTime) && ((currentMillis-torpedoTime) < (torpUpTime+torpFlashTime))){
    analogWrite(torpPin[1], 0);
    //digitalWrite(torpPin[0], HIGH);
    PORTB = PORTB | (1 << torpPin[0]);
  }
  // Ramp Down
  else if (((currentMillis-torpedoTime) > (torpUpTime+torpFlashTime)) && ((currentMillis-torpedoTime) < (torpUpTime+torpFlashTime+torpDownTime))){
    analogWrite(torpPin[1],torpMaxBrightness+(torpIdleBrightness-torpMaxBrightness)/torpDownTime*((currentMillis-torpedoTime)-(torpUpTime+torpFlashTime)));
    //digitalWrite(torpPin[0], LOW);
    PORTB = PORTB & ~(1 << torpPin[0]);
  }       
  // Idle
  else{
    analogWrite(torpPin[1], torpIdleBrightness);
    //digitalWrite(torpPin[0], LOW);
    PORTB = PORTB & ~(1 << torpPin[0]);
  }
 // ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ //
 
 
 
 // ---------- Engine Fading ----------------------------------------------------------- //
  // Slow Up and Down Fade with Shorter Pulsations
  int fadeValue = int(127.0+127.0/2.0*(1+(0.875*sin(2*PI*currentMillis/engineFadePeriod)+0.125*cos(14*PI*currentMillis/engineFadePeriod))));
  analogWrite(enginePin,fadeValue);
 // ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ //
 
 
 
 // ---------- Disruptor Firing -------------------------------------------------------- //
  // Get Random On or Off Time Using getRandom() Function Below
  disruptorFlashTime = fmod(getRandom(), 4000UL) + 60UL;
  if ((currentMillis - disruptorTime) < disruptorFiringTime){
    if(currentMillis - disruptorMillis > disruptorFlashTime) {
      disruptorMillis = currentMillis; 
      //digitalWrite(disruptorPin, disruptorState = !disruptorState);
      PORTB = ( (disruptorState = !disruptorState) ? (PORTB | (1 << disruptorPin)) : (PORTB & ~(1 << disruptorPin)) );
     }
   }
   else{
     //digitalWrite(disruptorPin,LOW);
     PORTB = PORTB & ~(1 << disruptorPin);
    }
 // ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ //


}
// ===================== End Main Loop ======================================================== //




// ===================== Pseduo-Random Generator ============================================== //
// Found This Online. I Take No Credit for It.
unsigned long m_w = 1;
unsigned long m_z = 2;

unsigned long getRandom()
{
    m_z = 36969L * (m_z & 65535L) + (m_z >> 16);
    m_w = 18000L * (m_w & 65535L) + (m_w >> 16);
    return (m_z << 16) + m_w;  /* 32-bit result */
}
// ===================== End Pseduo-Random Generator ========================================== //

« Last Edit: January 13, 2018, 03:27:36 pm by Spencer »

Offline Spencer

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Re: Klingon Bird of Prey - LIGHTING
« Reply #26 on: January 14, 2018, 08:46:55 am »
I had some time last night to work on ideas for the windows. I've seen a few use canopy glue after all the painting
and assembly is done, but others suggest Micro Kristal Klear. So I tried both.

I took some canopy glue and mixed it with a drop of red food coloring and used a toothpick to get it into one of the torpedo
windows.



After letting it dry a few hours, i wasn't too thrilled. Part of the window was clear red, the other half dried opaque.
No pictures of that, camera battery was dead.

So I dug it out and tried Kristal Klear instead. It seemed a bit thicker and I only mixed enough red coloring to turn
the glue reddish pink.

Leaving it overnight I got this.



The window looks a bit smaller and dimmer, but more in scale I think. There's also a noticeable deep red color
when the window isn't lit. The Klear did shrink a little into the window, but not nearly as much as the canopy glue.

What do you all think? The only other thing I could imagine doing is filling with clear acrylic, which I would have to
get.


Will be working (thinking) more on the lighting over the next couple days.

Spencer
« Last Edit: January 14, 2018, 08:50:32 am by Spencer »

Offline Spencer

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Re: Klingon Bird of Prey - LIGHTING
« Reply #27 on: January 14, 2018, 08:50:09 pm »
I went through my 1lb. bag of assorted tubing and found enough of the right things to rebuild the
disruptor barrels, I think.



The main brass barrel is just slightly bigger than the kit molded one, so I'll have to be careful not to hog out
too big of a hole for the middle piece that connects to the curved barrel. I'll probably have to use JB Weld to
attach metal to metal. The little cannons will fit 1.0mm fiberoptic and the bigger cannon 1.5mm.


Here is the control board, fabbed from OSHPark, front and back with an ATtiny85 plopped on top. The resistors,
and capacitor, will be 0603.




That's it until the middle of the week unfortunately. Other things to deal with.

Cheers,
Spencer

Offline Tonimus

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Re: Klingon Bird of Prey - LIGHTING
« Reply #28 on: January 14, 2018, 10:34:07 pm »
To me, the Kristal Klear looks pretty good. I think that's the route I'd go.

Offline manu

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Re: Klingon Bird of Prey - LIGHTING
« Reply #29 on: January 15, 2018, 03:16:20 am »
Very nice. This is going to be a great build.

 




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