AMT 50th Enterprise 1/650 build. *Complete newbie*

[psylow]

Hello,
I am ready to try some more serious modeling and and starting with the above mentioned kit.  I have done modeling in the past but nothing more than gluing and decal work.  I thought this might be the proper place to document my progress and ask for help along the way.

I have been cleaning up the parts by cutting and sanding off the extra flash.  Here is my first problem.  In a few spots where the flash was very thick, I am left with sections shown in the pic below.  I would assume the way to fix this would be to paint it?  If that is the case then I should just repaint the entire thing?

[Decoman]

Sry, there is no photo showing up here.

Did you paint the parts while them being on the sprues?

[psylow]

I have not painted them, the color is as is from the box.

[starsiegeplayer]

Yes.  Painting the entire model (what we call a "base coat") is what fixes this. 

You can remove seams with putty and sandpaper before applying the base coat. 

Your models will look much better with paint.  Decals adhere much better to paint than plastic (although yiu will want to do a clear gloss coat before decals if you use a flat base coat).

[Decoman]

Vallejo has water based putty, which is much less obnoxious to work with, compared to some presumably toxic Tamiya putty stuff.

The imo best Vallejo putty product, is not the putty found in the regular "paint bottles" (tends to be tricky to use, and the tip can dry), but product number '70.401'. This is the one that comes in a 20 ml tube and with a nice thinned tip applicator. Works great! This putty is best sanded with medium coarse sanding files, and then fine grit sanding sticks, else you'll spent too much time sanding if only using some kind of 'fine' grit sanding stick.

[psylow]

Thanks for the responses.  I have watched a few videos on seem work and am ready to try it.  But I am curious what type of putty you use for seems and gaps.

[psylow]

Vallejo has water based putty, which is much less obnoxious to work with, compared to some presumably toxic Tamiya putty stuff.

The imo best Vallejo putty product, is not the putty found in the regular "paint bottles" (tends to be tricky to use, and the tip can dry), but product number '70.401'. This is the one that comes in a 20 ml tube and with a nice thinned tip applicator. Works great! This putty is best sanded with medium coarse sanding files, and then fine grade sanding files, else you'll spent too much time sanding if only using some kind of 'fine' grade sanding file.

Thank you.  I'll pick some up and give it a try.

[Decoman]

For larger gaps, I would recommend plopping down bits of styrene (like Evergreen styrene) and then add putty around the now smaller gaps, instead of trying to fill a big cavity with putty, which probably will sink, requiring one or more additional pass.

For example with Vallejo putty, eventually, once you allow the first layer to dry properly, you can add more putty and even build up a shape if you are careful.

Styrene works with "regular" liquid glue. I recommend 'Tamiya Extra Thin Cement'. Note: add this liquid glue outside on the seams on top, after gently pressing two parts together (the liquid glue will be soaked into the seams automatically). Once dry, gently go over with a sanding stick and maybe a polish stick. Excess liquid glue will evaporate. Don't smear liquid glue on clear parts, and try avoid having liquid glue flow down your thumb, which might leave a subtle fingerprint if that happens. This way, you don't have to work with glue the old way, where one would add glue goo on the inside of parts, usually leading to stress and some mess.

[Tshark]

"Perfect Plastic" putty by Deluxe is some of the best putty I have ever used.

https://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-BD44-Perfect-Plastic/dp/B0076LAVFK

It flows pretty well and sands very nice.

[psylow]

I think I have the parts as smooth as I can get them.  The next step should be to paint before I put it all together right? Or should I do seam work then paint? 
Can I also get an idea of what color paint and type of paint you recommend?  I have an airbrush and am looking forward to this part.

[psylow]

I forgot about the paint guide.  I'll just follow the paint guide.

[Tshark]

I am currently doing this build.  Here are the steps I am using to complete the build:

1)  Build the primary hull, secondary hull, and nacelles (except for the end caps and intercoolers). 

2)  Work on the seams and prime the sub-assemblies. 

3)  Airbrush the final paint scheme on each of the sub-assemblies. 

4)  Assemble the primary hull and nacelles to the secondary hull using a jig.  I did not attach end caps and intercoolers to the nacelles yet so the nacelles can lie flat on the jig.

5)  Putty and sand the seams on the secondary hull where the primary hull and nacelle attach.  Then airbrush the seams the final color to hide them.

6)  Clear coat the entire model and apply decals.

For me this makes it easier to paint and work on the model without fear of hitting a nacelle and breaking it from the secondary hull (a notorious structural weakness).

[psylow]

Thank you.  This is exactly what I needed.

I am currently doing this build.  Here are the steps I am using to complete the build:

1)  Build the primary hull, secondary hull, and nacelles (except for the end caps and intercoolers). 

2)  Work on the seams and prime the sub-assemblies. 

3)  Airbrush the final paint scheme on each of the sub-assemblies. 

4)  Assemble the primary hull and nacelles to the secondary hull using a jig.  I did not attach end caps and intercoolers to the nacelles yet so the nacelles can lie flat on the jig.

5)  Putty and sand the seams on the secondary hull where the primary hull and nacelle attach.  Then airbrush the seams the final color to hide them.

6)  Clear coat the entire model and apply decals.

For me this makes it easier to paint and work on the model without fear of hitting a nacelle and breaking it from the secondary hull (a notorious structural weakness).

[MSgtUSAFRet]

psylow, not to say you can't ask questions, we here love questions, but there are several threads that may provide you with info for step by step.

This thread is my own. I am not claiming to be the best, or the only, but it may give you some ideas and pit falls to avoid.
Steve's


This thread is the reason I joined Scifimodelaction -
Crowe-t

No offense to any other builder, but this is probably the best thread ever on accurizing the 650 kit! Crowe-t didn't light it or anything, but everything else is spot on; and the results, IMHO, speak for themselves.

You can use the search function and type in "1/650" in case you hadn't already figured that out. Many threads or examples of the finished models should pop up!

Keep going! As this one was my first in decades and got me going again in the hobby, I have a special love for the kit and any thread building it!

Steady as she goes, Mr. Sulu!

Steve

[psylow]

Thanks for the response.  I did quite a few searches and looked through several threads but was unable to find anything on this kit which I thought was odd.  Perhaps I was not searching for the proper keywords.  I understand how annoying it can be when new people post without searching but it appears I missed it.

psylow, not to say you can't ask questions, we here love questions, but there are several threads that may provide you with info for step by step.

This thread is my own. I am not claiming to be the best, or the only, but it may give you some ideas and pit falls to avoid.
Steve's


This thread is the reason I joined Scifimodelaction -
Crowe-t

No offense to any other builder, but this is probably the best thread ever on accurizing the 650 kit! Crowe-t didn't light it or anything, but everything else is spot on; and the results, IMHO, speak for themselves.

You can use the search function and type in "1/650" in case you hadn't already figured that out. Many threads or examples of the finished models should pop up!

Keep going! As this one was my first in decades and got me going again in the hobby, I have a special love for the kit and any thread building it!

Steady as she goes, Mr. Sulu!

Steve